ASV Operating hydraulic pressure at the cooler?

   / ASV Operating hydraulic pressure at the cooler?
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Bob: I have an ASV RC100. It's a 100 HP machine. The Radiator is a split design. It looks like one unit but is is seperated on the inside, and the engine fan blows straight through. They are not stacked, they are side by side.

I do not know what the hydraulic oil temp is, but my engine coolant temp is 185 without running the hyraulics. Then when I kick it on it rises to 220 withinn 10 mins. I can blow everything out and it will run a little cooler for a bit.

I have read other people on here that say a hydraulic temp light comes on, but mine doesn't. I don't know if it is broken, or the temp is not high enough on the hydraulics to make it come on.

I am using the green anti freeze for engine coolant. I have never heard anyone say it, but maybe it's a better Idea to add the heat exchanger to the engine coolant instead of on the hydraulics?

I do not know what my alternator capacity is, but everything is hydraulic on the machine so I can imagine the machine uses much power right now. The only electric fan I have now is on the roof mount a/c.

I saw the loftness hydraulic oil cooler, but it's $3,700. The one I posted earlier is only $600, but I will have to get the hoses made etc.

Here's a link to the Loftness hydraulci oil cooler.

Loftness > Oil Cooler

It's doesn't say what the pressure rating is on the specs. It looks pretty cool though.
 
   / ASV Operating hydraulic pressure at the cooler? #12  
Bob: I have an ASV RC100. It's a 100 HP machine. The Radiator is a split design. It looks like one unit but is is seperated on the inside, and the engine fan blows straight through. They are not stacked, they are side by side.
Then that rules out heat cross-transfer to engine coolant through air flow. Many reasons for that design.

I do not know what the hydraulic oil temp is, but my engine coolant temp is 185 without running the hyraulics. Then when I kick it on it rises to 220 withinn 10 mins. I can blow everything out and it will run a little cooler for a bit.
Then the overheating issue may not be due to the hydraulic system after all, nor the hydraulic system itself. Personally, I like to see about 195°F to 198°F engine coolant with radiator Δ-T's of no more than 15°. You could simply be overloading the engine at a particular speed. That's why I asked about engine coolant. You could also have a defective thermostat that may be sticking open or slightly open and not allowing coolant residence time in the radiator for proper cooling. You will get a big cooling boost by using non ethylene-glycol based coolants such as Coolants Engine Cooling Systems or Final Charge Antifreeze Home Page and many more on the market.

I have read other people on here that say a hydraulic temp light comes on, but mine doesn't. I don't know if it is broken, or the temp is not high enough on the hydraulics to make it come on.
At this point I will speculate that the oil isn't all that hot, but I would defiantly check your alarm light and sending unit.

I am using the green anti freeze for engine coolant. I have never heard anyone say it, but maybe it's a better Idea to add the heat exchanger to the engine coolant instead of on the hydraulics?
I suggest switching to a heavy duty diesel engine coolant (as above), and double check your fan belt.

I do not know what my alternator capacity is, but everything is hydraulic on the machine so I can imagine the machine uses much power right now. The only electric fan I have now is on the roof mount a/c.
Anything electric is a load on the alternator, which is a direct parasitic load on the engine. The typical radiator fan requires at least 8 to 10 HP at rated engine speed. For a 50 amp alternator, about 8 HP at max. output.

I saw the loftness hydraulic oil cooler, but it's $3,700. The one I posted earlier is only $600, but I will have to get the hoses made etc.
I would do a little more troubleshooting on the engine cooling system and hydraulic oil temp alarm before I invested over $600.00 on something I may not need.

PS: You will be lucky to get 85 HP out of your machine after parasitic losses. Sorry.
 
   / ASV Operating hydraulic pressure at the cooler?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks for your responses.

Everyone I have ever talked to has similar problems with this machine, as well as anyone running a mulching attachment on any skid steer or ctl.

I can run the machine wide open all day without running the high flow hydraulics and it stays arounf 195. I have also added a mechanical thermostat to double check it and it is the same, so I know the coolant temp is correct on the gauge.

I have never heard of the waterless coolants that you linked. Do they sell them in a lot of places? I guess that would be the thing to try first.
 
   / ASV Operating hydraulic pressure at the cooler? #14  
The Final Charge stuff I used to get at Wal-Mart but they don't carry it around here anymore.
Caterpillar has their stuff: Cat Coolant Lowers Maintenance Costs & Provides Advanced Metal Protection We use it at work.
Also this stuff: Penray - Products

Your scenario suggests that the mulching attachments HP demand is above the OEM capacity of your machine. Is there a difference if you run at say, 90% throttle?

I still recommend the "slippery and wetter" coolants in any case.

Not sure what you meant by "added a mechanical thermostat"?
 
   / ASV Operating hydraulic pressure at the cooler? #15  
Double check and check again, the belts are extremely hard to get tight and the engine fan is driven off the crank by belts. I don't remember on the fan but is it a direct drive, meaning no clutch? You can go with a small hyd cooler to help the existing cooler. Last thing, on a down day or two pull the radiator and pressure it throughly, it might be clogged.
 
   / ASV Operating hydraulic pressure at the cooler? #16  
Everyone I have ever talked to has similar problems with this machine, as well as anyone running a mulching attachment on any skid steer or ctl.

Would have been helpful to have known that up front. Thought you were having unique issues.
Any oil cooler you install will go downstream of the filters. Pressure rating is not really a concern since it will be installed in the return oil circuit.
 
   / ASV Operating hydraulic pressure at the cooler? #17  
Hey Tuck try draining the entire radiator & putting in fresh antifreeze & water, I think that will help.
 

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