Attaching attachments

[MountainBuck]

I've had my new 4500P for a week now. However, I'm really having problems with picking up and dropping attachments.

My first time attaching the landscape rake took two hours. After the first hour, I called the dealer and he told me to just push it up against a wall or tree. I was reluctant to do that so went and got some rubber chocks and after the second hour, got the rake attached. Taking the implement off was also difficult. Attaching the rough cut mower then took about 1/2 hour with the chock method.

Its typically the last inch or so that is the worst. As a younger man I would have just wrestled the implements on, but my back won't let me do anything like that anymore.

I've thought about greasing the front posts. If I didn't think it would void the warranty, I'd file the sharp edges off those posts, but for what I paid for it, can't afford to void the warranty in the first month.

This was all on flat level concrete. I tried positioning the rake on ramps but that made it worse. I'm now thinking of driving some anchors in the barn and chaining the implements to them as I drop them and attach them. I'm also toying with a chain solution that hooks to the front frame of the tractor and pulls the implement onto it.

Any ideas?

 

[bcp]

Welcome to TBN.

Buy a quick hitch.

Put the implements on dollies.

Buy a tractor for each implement.



Bruce

 

[murphy1244]

Welcome to TBN. It was very hard at first for me too. But as it wears in and you get better at it things get easier. I did put a dab of grease on the slides. That machine is very well built so don't baby it.

 

[Oldtink]

Oops I just assumed it had a typical 3pth...............never mind

 

[JackIL]

Sorry to hear you experienced difficulties. My initial thought is to be sure that the Weight Transfer system is DISENGAGED when attaching and detaching attachments. Definitely DO NOT push against a tree with the tractor to attempt to complete the engagement. If the attachment has wheels such as a mower deck, place a 2 x 4 on the floor in front of the wheels to prevent the deck from moving. See the following video from Ventrac which explains the process of attaching and detaching.

 

[brucet47]

I've had my new 4500P for a week now. However, I'm really having problems with picking up and dropping attachments.

My first time attaching the landscape rake took two hours. After the first hour, I called the dealer and he told me to just push it up against a wall or tree. I was reluctant to do that so went and got some rubber chocks and after the second hour, got the rake attached. Taking the implement off was also difficult. Attaching the rough cut mower then took about 1/2 hour with the chock method.

Its typically the last inch or so that is the worst. As a younger man I would have just wrestled the implements on, but my back won't let me do anything like that anymore.

I've thought about greasing the front posts. If I didn't think it would void the warranty, I'd file the sharp edges off those posts, but for what I paid for it, can't afford to void the warranty in the first month.

This was all on flat level concrete. I tried positioning the rake on ramps but that made it worse. I'm now thinking of driving some anchors in the barn and chaining the implements to them as I drop them and attach them. I'm also toying with a chain solution that hooks to the front frame of the tractor and pulls the implement onto it.

Any ideas?

The landscape rake hooks up easier with the guide wheels in the long position. I also find that pulling close to the rake and hooking up the hydraulics and electric before driving into the hitch allows you to dig the rake into the ground allowing a firmer platform to connect to.

I had some issues with the rough cut until I began using 4x4's to set the mower down on rather than using the adjusting foot that is integral with the mower. I never lower the foot when I unhook.

Clearances are pretty tight on new attachments. After a few hours of operation they become easier to attach. Good luck!

Bruce

 

[JackIL]

Sorry I left the video link out of my last post.

This video made by Ventrac shows the techniques for attaching and detaching.

How to Connect Attachments to Ventrac 45 Tractors - YouTube

Be sure Weight Transfer is OFF.

Jack

 

[oosik]

I have 7-8 various implements sitting on pallets out in the orchard. I can vividly remember the first time I attached a couple of them. I must have moved the tractor a dozen times and pinched my fingers several times also.

Believe me, with time you will gain experience - learn a couple crafty tricks - and on/off will become easier. At least you are working on a hard, level surface. ALL my implements are slightly off of level and have to be pulled, pried & horsed to make connection.

I have gained sufficient experience that I can back up to an implement and usually make connection without moving the tractor a second time. This has only come with a LOT of trial & error.

One major advantage - my lower arms have extendable ends. I also have a very big pry bar.

When I back up to attach, my lower arms are swinging completely free - I've completely undone the stabilizer bars - and the extendable lower arm ends are completely retracted. This allows for max flexibility to get the implement pins attached to the lower arms. The top link is easy because I have a hydraulic top link.

Just go easy - remember what works well - be safe.

 

[prs]

Ossik, its not a 3 pt hitch.

Mountain Buck has gotten some good pointers. Like Jack said, make sure the transfer is relaxed. Drive into the implement with your lift bars down a good bit and lift to just make contact once almost to the coupler. At that point, the level of the implement couper to the tractor's coupler pins varies a little. You will remember the sweet spot for each in time. On slick concrete, I can not get framing lumber to serve as chocks, they just skid. Rubber wheel chocks grab much better.

prs

 

[murphy1244]

Sorry I left the video link out of my last post.

This video made by Ventrac shows the techniques for attaching and detaching.

How to Connect Attachments to Ventrac 45 Tractors - YouTube

Be sure Weight Transfer is OFF.

Jack

Thanks much Jack!! I didn't know about setting the weight transfer.

 

[ArtMech]

Buy a tractor for each implement.



Bruce

I have a neighbour farmer, who really has a tractor for each implement. All of them are old Belarus. He buys them defective, means cheap, fixes them himself and runs.

Welcome to :tractor:-BN, MountainBuck

 

[roadhunter]

3 pints can be a real PITA, especially when you have an implement that is too heavy to wiggle into position. There is a reason that almost no other equipment that size uses a 3 point for attachments as things like skid steer attachment plate are much easier to use.

Some like the quick hitch but that only works if all your implements have the same dimensions as far as pin locations.

I suspect with time you will get faster at swapping implements.

 

[johara1]

I do it from the side, i by passed the stupid seat switch. I can see walk right in with it level the arms and give it a little wiggle and walk in front of the mower and push it back lock it and put the belt on and set the tension. Done in less than a minute…….. The bucket is the biggest pain if it is inside, outside it is easy against the gravel pile. Jim

 

[MountainBuck]

Thanks all! I dropped the bucket on a pallet which worked well then lubed up the front posts and the mower went on in about a minute. I liked the idea of not putting that mower foot down and dropping that on a pallet too.

Still haven't tried the rake again.

 

[johara1]

I really don't think you want to use lube on the arms it will attract and hold dirt. It will accelerate the wear. There is a lot of clearance built in, a little wiggle, lines every thing up. jim

 

[RalphVa]

If you cannot park the implements on flat, solid surfaces where you can move them about on castors or dolly underneath, you'll need those extendable arms to give you some more flexibility.

First time with my tractor, I just dropped the bush hog onto the ground. About died getting it back on.

Now, with it on a 2x6 with castors underneath, I've taken it off, put something else on and then put it back on, all in the same afternoon.

Ralph

 

[johara1]

You must be talking about 3 point hitch stuff? ………. jim

 

[TNMark1]

Takes a while to get used to the Ventrac front hitch....

Set weight transfer to ZERO.....

Take the implement off the dolly if you have it one one... If its on wheels on a driveway or concrete, plan on chasing it around. Easier if you put it on grass. I've done the push into a wall thing... BUT DON"T really push hard into the wall, use the wall to stop it from rolling away...

First, grease the lift arms a bit. Put the lift arms DOWN, (not float). Pull up to the implement looking around the right side of the tractor.. As you move forward, you need to make sure the right OUTSIDE of right hitch arm is almost touching the inside of the right side of the implement hitch... Move forward until the the hitch arms are under the implement.

Set the brake and get off the tractor so you can see better.... Lift the hitch arms until they are level with the implement hitch, Now turn the steering wheel until the hitch arms are going straight into the implement.

Get back on the tractor, release the brake, move forward...

If you can lock the hitch, do it now. Sometimes, I'll pick up the implement with the hitch and slide it on pushing from the front of the implement. Or with a mower on wheels (if its on a hard surface), I'll also push it on on its wheels....

Then hook up belt and hydraulics.... Hooking up the belt and hydraulics before the hitch is locked really doesn't help....

Bucket ... the trick is to level the bucket BEFORE you take it off. If not when you take it off, the hitch is in a position that makes it hard to hook up.. Sometimes raising the back of the bucket (slide a 2x4 under it) will help....

After you do it a few times it gets easier... quick way to unhook to mount something else is to pull the belt off before you get on the tractor (saves a trip on and off)... then unlatch it when you take the implement off. If its on wheels and on a hard surface and doesn't want to come off.... Unlatch, move forward and as you are going forward, hit reverse, its slides right off....


Mark

 

[johara1]

I can't understand why you grease the lift . arms……. with all the side clearance +- .250 why you need grease? This 4500 is my third one, and no grease. Steiner or Ventrac are the same. … jim

 

[prs]

I tend to grease the top surface of the lift arm once in a while. There is no clearance there when aligned so that the latches will close, but I will admit that there is only slight pressure there when aligned. I have never had much success looking over the right side of the tractor to see the hitch, I am a left looker --- either way, the sight path is really small. There was a thread some time back where use of a video camera was discussed; I think the time necessary to rig that, would never be equaled by the aggregate time spent coupling if you were to just rely upon experience.

prs