kennyd
Advertiser
Good deal. I did find some pictures of what you where thinking about on the MTF forum, I will post them below.
If you need help let me know...
Attaching Meyers plow to the front of my tractor..
- Thread starter wetstuff
- Start date
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Good deal. I did find some pictures of what you where thinking about on the MTF forum, I will post them below.
If you need help let me know...
UnclePaul
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2008
- Messages
- 97
- Location
- Unionville, Pa
- Tractor
- Kubota L39, John Deere z950a, 1965' 110
If you want to make a really strong and quite simple design. You can bring two supports down from either side of the front of the tractor frame depending on what holes are already in the frame. Than make a vertical support come from the drawl bar all the way to the front brackets. This is how my Buddy made multiple frame works for his farm tractors.
George2615
Super Member
Maybe he remembers my pics of a blade hooked to my loader arms. Of course with this setup i can only straight blade but it gets the job done
Attachments
... George's rig is what I was originally thinking of, but it now looks scary. I can just see myself hooking something solid in the snow and cocking a lifting arm. I'm pretty convinced by others, who went before me, to mount the actual contact points well aft on the tractor like zz-6 or UnclePaul
Kenny's picture of the Orange is even more scary. I picture myself in a snow storm with the bucket in my line-of-sight ....
In the two big storms we had in Maryland last year, you needed to drag the lane (mine is about 600' in woods + 500' in open pasture) a number of times to stay ahead of it. Needless to say, like buying hurricane shutters, if I'm well prepared - we will be spared.
Jim
Kenny's picture of the Orange is even more scary. I picture myself in a snow storm with the bucket in my line-of-sight ....
In the two big storms we had in Maryland last year, you needed to drag the lane (mine is about 600' in woods + 500' in open pasture) a number of times to stay ahead of it. Needless to say, like buying hurricane shutters, if I'm well prepared - we will be spared.
Jim
Heres some shots of my plow setup. Note: I never saw a need to run any beam up to the plow from the draw bar. This setup has taken quite a beating and never yielded anything. To me its just another part to have to hook up, lose, borrow, paint, or no longer fit properly. The 'pork chops' I refer to are shown bolted to the frame in the 3rd picture. The lower holes are usually there to contain the link pins for a Mid Mount Mower in either of 2 positions.
Note that I used 2 rod ends to attach to the plow A frame to make it easier to line everything up when its time to put the plow on (you know, when you cut the grass one day and wake up to find 2 feet of snow on the road the next day. This means I just need common bolts to pin the A frame to the draw bars. Or as someone referred to them as drawl bars (snow that much in the South does it?)
BTW, thats not rust on the plow, the orange is surplus paint from Goodwill
Note that I used 2 rod ends to attach to the plow A frame to make it easier to line everything up when its time to put the plow on (you know, when you cut the grass one day and wake up to find 2 feet of snow on the road the next day. This means I just need common bolts to pin the A frame to the draw bars. Or as someone referred to them as drawl bars (snow that much in the South does it?)
BTW, thats not rust on the plow, the orange is surplus paint from Goodwill
zz-6: Thanks. I printed out your instructions to take to my fabricator. It turns out that this plow rig is manual R/L because there are no ears for cylinders. No Biggie. I'm outside already?! .. getting on/off the tractor will help keep the blood moving. I'll take some pics when done.
Jim
Jim
CinderSchnauzer
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2006
- Messages
- 1,397
Hi wetstuff. I'm new to this site. I saw your post. What I have done is to bolt a angle iron braket that would accept your plow a-frame into the back of the bucket. I then put the lift chain to hook on top of the bucket to keep the plow from rubbing on it. If you wanted to put cylinders on the plow you could run extra hoses from your loader contol valve. I would adjust the bucket to level then unplug the QC for the dump cylinders. The bucket will stay ther then you can use the Hyd to angle the plow. I've done to 3 different tractors. I have not seen any damage. Just make sure to position the bracket in a spot where the plow can angle without hitting the corners of the bucket.
What I did, maybe it will be helpful.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/126827-2320-snow-blade-almost-done.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/127626-snow-plow-now-done.html
Now,
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/190156-meyer-tm-plow-blade-2320-a.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/126827-2320-snow-blade-almost-done.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/127626-snow-plow-now-done.html
Now,
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/190156-meyer-tm-plow-blade-2320-a.html
Thanks G2 .. I printed out a couple of the pics to give to my fabricator. The 'chase lounge' on the sawhorses is somewhat I imagined it would look like under mine also. It will be interesting to see if he thinks a ladder vs. your single beam would handle torsion and/or yaw better... It is all helpful. I certainly appreciate it. Cheers.
Jim
Jim