Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee

   / Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee #11  

I am trying to figure out what attachments will work with it.


Any implement with a Category 1 Three Point Hitch is compatible with your Ford NAA.

Disc Harrows and Rototillers both mix the soil. One or the other, not both.

Ford Golden Jubilee NAA​

Tractor hitch
Rear Type:Category 1 Three Point Hitch
Control:position and draft control
Rear lift:800 lbs
362 kg
Mechanical
Chassis:4x2 2WD
Steering:manual
Dimensions
Wheelbase:73.875 inches
187 cm
Length:118.875 inches
301 cm
Width:64.75 inches
164 cm
Height:57.25 inches
145 cm
Ground clearance:13 inches
33 cm *
Clearance (front axle):21 inches
53 cm
Clearance (rear axle):21 inches
53 cm
Front tread:48 to 76 inches
121 to 193 cm
Rear tread:48 to 76 inches
121 to 193 cm


Ford NAA Weight
Shipping:2550 lbs
1156 kg
Operating:2814 lbs
1276 kg
Ballasted:4392 lbs
1992 kg
Transmission
Transmission:Ford
Type:gear
Gears:4 forward and 1 reverse
Clutch:dry disc
Oil capacity:5 qts
4.7 L
Oil type:
32oF [0oC]↑: SAE90
32oF [0oC]↓: SAE80
Tractor must be stopped, and clutch used, to shift gears.
 
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   / Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee #12  
I am being gifted a 54 ford jubilee tractor and I am trying to figure out what attachments will work with it. I am transitioning hayfields into veggie production.




 
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   / Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee #13  
I'll echo what most are saying. PTO speed is based on transmission gear selection and throttle on the 8N/Jubilee family, making PTO speed relative to ground speed because the same shaft that drives the rear wheels drives the PTO. Unless you find a way to speed up that PTO or slow down the tractor, a tiller probably isn't going to work well. A disk should be sufficient for annual tilling. Make sure it's wider than the tractor so that you don't leave tracks. A turning plow of some sort will do you justice every 3rd year or so, depending on your soil. If it packs (clay) you may have to turn it every year until you get enough humus and sand mixed in to make it ideal for growing veggies. You're going to find that topsoil under grass usually isn't very deep. Hopefully the subsoil is sandy loam. Disk it as deep as you can. You want loose soil at least 8 inches deep for growing veggies. If you're going to keep any of the hay fields, you're going to want a fertilizer spreader of some ilk, a hay mower (completely different from a grass cutter). I highly recommend a sub-soiler (AKA chisel) for drainage and trenching use, as well as a middle buster (AKA furrower). The sub-soiler can be used to cut deep trenches in the soil to allow water to run off below the surface and help control erosion and soggy spots. The middle buster is great for adding a ditch, or better yet, no better way to dig up potatoes unless you get a specialty tater digger. Not sure you'll find that for a 8N/Jubie.

You definitely want a way to mow with it. Like another poster said, there's ALWAYs some grass to cut. A flail mower probably isn't going to work as well behind the Jube for the same reasons as the issues with the tiller. We had a sickle mower for cutting hay, and a 6' Bush Hog (rotary cutter) for pasture maintenance and brush clearing. The sickle mower worked well at lower speeds in lower gears if you kept the throttle up. Going too slow was a sure way to clog the sickle, and too fast would leave too much standing. It's a fine art cutting cleanly with a sickle. If you put a rotary cutter behind that Jube, make sure that a slip or ratchet clutch is in the drive line, and that it works. The centrifugal energy of that cutter will keep pushing that tractor, brakes be damned. I put our 8N in the creek more than once. The creek wasn't very deep (about knee deep) but going down the bank headfirst was always a thrill. No seat belt, and I'm sure I pinched a few new vent holes in that old steel seat when I realized I was headed into the creek. Who needs amusement parks and roller coasters? If it happens, kill the engine, drop the cutter all the way down, and keep the nose pointed downhill. It's going to be a rough ride, but better than rolling sideways. If my mother had ever seen it happen to me, she'd never let me get on another tractor. I never rolled one over until much later in life. I put our Cub Farmall on it's left side a few times leaning up against something, but didn't actually roll anything until my late 40s. Me and a Murray rider got too close to the edge of a ditch. Fortunately it was light enough it didn't really hurt me, but it sure made some nasty bruises and I was sore for a while. The scary part was, it came down on me with the seat switch still compressed, meaning it was still running with the dirty side up. I was very lucky.

A rear blade of some sort is also a must. A grader blade is better for heavier scraping and pushing when working new access or woods roads. A box blade will make a better finishing tool, albeit you'll probably have to make more passes. A box blade isn't designed for hogging off material. It accumulates and drags material with it to fill holes quicker, whereas a grader blade will shed material to one side if used correctly. The grader blade is better for crowning roads and cleaning ditches. The box blade is better for surface finish. I've seen folks that could do any chore with either blade. They were more talented than I.

You're obviously new at this, and some things you'll figure out for yourself or learn in the process of becoming a professional veggie farmer. The Jube is a wonderful workhorse. Think about it, it's 68 years old and still running. I don't think you can ask for better proof of reliability. An old 8N or something like it was what I wanted for clearing my lot. But the demand on them makes them hard to find in running condition, and when you do, the price is sky high. So, I got an LX2610SU instead. Like you, though, I'm still collecting implements and attachments.
 
   / Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee #14  
A Jub or NAA will most definitely NOT run a tiller, this question is asked so often it should be on the startup page of browsers but you don't know till you ask. The gearing in the Jub and any of the hundred series tractors that do not have the SOS transmission have a ground speed that is to fast for a tiller. One exception is if the tractor has a Hupp auxiliary transmission, it is a rare bird that was designed to slow the tractor but not the PTO. It is the only auxiliary transmission that will work, Sherman (the most common) and others not only change the tractors speed but also it's PTO speed.

A two bottom plow and disk will make you golden for prepping ground.
John brings up a valid point.

Your tractor in 1st gear has a ground speed of 2.77 mph at 1,500 rpm.

My 3910 in 1st gear has a ground speed of 1.27 mph at 1,500 rpm. I have to be in 3rd gear on my 8spd to match your 2.77 mph speed.

Thanks for stimulating me to research that fact John. (y)
 
   / Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee #15  
John brings up a valid point.

Your tractor in 1st gear has a ground speed of 2.77 mph at 1,500 rpm.

My 3910 in 1st gear has a ground speed of 1.27 mph at 1,500 rpm. I have to be in 3rd gear on my 8spd to match your 2.77 mph speed.

Thanks for stimulating me to research that fact John. (y)
Your Welcome...

You did the research 👍, it is sad so many issue an opinion/bad information about things like this without ever bothering to check. Just because it is a Cat 1 and the implement will mount to the tractor does not mean it will work.
 
   / Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee
  • Thread Starter
#16  
A Jub or NAA will most definitely NOT run a tiller, this question is asked so often it should be on the startup page of browsers but you don't know till you ask. The gearing in the Jub and any of the hundred series tractors that do not have the SOS transmission have a ground speed that is to fast for a tiller. One exception is if the tractor has a Hupp auxiliary transmission, it is a rare bird that was designed to slow the tractor but not the PTO. It is the only auxiliary transmission that will work, Sherman (the most common) and others not only change the tractors speed but also it's PTO speed.

A two bottom plow and disk will make you golden for prepping ground.
Thats what I thought, that it went to fast for a tiller, thank you!
A Jub or NAA will most definitely NOT run a tiller, this question is asked so often it should be on the startup page of browsers but you don't know till you ask. The gearing in the Jub and any of the hundred series tractors that do not have the SOS transmission have a ground speed that is to fast for a tiller. One exception is if the tractor has a Hupp auxiliary transmission, it is a rare bird that was designed to slow the tractor but not the PTO. It is the only auxiliary transmission that will work, Sherman (the most common) and others not only change the tractors speed but also it's PTO speed.

A two bottom plow and disk will make you golden for prepping ground.
I was considering a 2 bottom plow instead of a moldboard, can the jubilee with only 26hp pull that?
 
   / Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee #17  
Set up correctly, it shouldn't have an issue. We pull a 2 bottom with our 8N. We've got clay, and rock to pull it through, and it generally handles it ok.
 
   / Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee #18  
A moldboard plow and a turning plow are the same thing.

The "bottoms" are the number/units of "plows".

I am sure your Jubilee can pull a 2-bottom 12" plow or a 2-bottom 14" plow and probably a 2-bottom 16" plow through medium hard ground. It might stall with a 2-bottom 16" plow turning hard, hard ground.

A 16" Moldboard Plow pushes near double the volume of dirt, relative to a 12" plow. It takes significantly more tractor weight to pull a two bottom 16" Moldboard Plow, relative to a 12" two bottom Moldboard Plow. A three bottom 12" plow generates similar draft force resistance to a two bottom 16" plow, as tougher soil is usually deeper.

Best to avoid mixing fertile top soil and infertile subsoil when plowing. Dig a hole in your hay field to determine top soil depth.

Learning to moldboard plow well requires many hours of practice.

Learning how to rip the earth with a spring-protected Field Cultivator / All Purpose Plow requires only one hour.






Ford NAA Power
Drawbar (claimed):20.2 hp
15.1 kW
PTO (claimed):30.15 hp
22.5 kW
Plows:2
Drawbar (tested):26.8 hp
20.0 kW
Belt (tested):31.14 hp
23.2 kW
 
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   / Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee #19  
You may also want a Transport Box to substitute for a front end loader, to carry soil amendments and tools and during harvest to carry your produce.

SPLIT-FIRE Three Point Hitch mounted SUBSTITUTE for the tractor Front End Loader:







7052558_orig.jpg



The Pat’s Easy Mover is a front end loader style bucket that attaches to the rear of your tractor using an included 3 point hitch trailer mover/toolbar. Pat’s Easy Moverprovides a lower cost way to complete many of the tasks that were previously only possible with expensive front end loaders, including digging, scooping and spreading. In addition to the bucket, the system also includes a removable tailgate that allows it to functions as a transport box. Or the entire bucket can be removed, leaving a trailer mover/toolbar with a 2” receiver hitch and the capability to accept a gooseneck ball. The Pat’s Easy Mover is made in the USA and is available in 4’ and 5’ models. Both of the models use a category 1 trailer mover/toolbar and carry a one year warranty.

4' Bucket - 48" x 24" x 14" approx 9cft $750.00 plus shipping
5' Bucket - 60" x 28" x 14" approx 17cft $800.00 plus shipping


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WESTENDORF​

WR-20 & WR-30​

Product Details​

Versatility At Your Fingertips
The WR-20 is designed to attach to a tractor's 3-point on tractors up to 27 HP. The WR-30 fits a tractor's 3-point from 20 to 80 HP. The Auto-Dump™ works with easy one-lever control, the same lever that controls your 3-point. A great solution for small and older 2WD tractors that cannot fit a front-end loader. It is a great solution for farmers, acreage owners, weekend farmers, construction companies, large poultry businesses, nurserymen, snow removal companies, rental companies, schools, golf courses, and much more. The Auto-Dump™ is great for digging, scooping, and hauling material of all types. It can be used to scrape, level, bank, and backfill. Makes quick work of moving tree branches, bricks, bales of hay, firewood, tools, lawn and garden supplies or any job you might use a wheelbarrow for. You get all these great features of a front-end loader for a fraction of the cost.

The WR-20 & WR-30 Auto-Dump™ features:
  • Lift height of the WR-20 is 18" to 28".
  • Lift height of the WR-30 is 30" to 40".
  • The dump angle of the WR-20 is up to 55°, and the dump angle of the WR-30 is up to 52°.
  • WR-20 comes with heavy-duty bucket with a width of 48" and a bucket capacity of 3 cubic feet or a width of 60" and bucket capacity of 3.5 cubic feet .
  • WR-30 comes with heavy-duty bucket with a width of 60" and a bucket capacity of 11 cubic feet or a width of 72" and bucket capacity of 13 cubic feet .
  • No additional hydraulics are required.
  • Easy one-lever control. The same lever that controls your 3-point hitch.
  • Attaches quickly and easily to your tractor and there are no brackets left on the tractor when the Auto-Dump™ is removed.
  • Gives you a high bucket rise for the best possible ground clearance, allowing you to pile snow, dirt, gravel, or sand higher than the blade.
 
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   / Attachments for my '54 Ford Jubilee #20  
Pulling a 2 bottom plow is what the Jub was designed for, a 14" works best, a 16" depending on soil can at times be a bit much. The Jub will plow all day long for as long as you want. In fact once you get good at it it can be quite enjoyable.

If you want a plow to make plowing almost idiot proof then look for a disc plow. My grandfather had one that was to heavy for his 8N (got VERY light in the front with the plow picked up) but it sure could turn the soil deeper and easier than his 2 bottom.
 
 

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