Auto Darkening Helmets. Is there a difference?

[tomplum]

I bought this one 2 years ago to replace expensive Optrel with a non replaceable battery. Unlike Radios, it wasn't in my capability to install a battery without breaking the cartridge. It is the same offshore one that some welding supply stores have for more $$ . I was going to get a nice Viking, but I couldn't get the fit right . Not that I can get this one to fit right either, but it was 40$ rather 300. I still have a tweaker for a back up. BTW the battery is replaceable and the lens is clear when ever it is clean! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073PY7F68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[PILOON]

Well I welded for 4-5 hrs today with an 'el cheepo' offshore helmet and I don't see spots nor do I have a headache.
As I recall I paid all of $30 for it.
Also I have 2 and each performe as I expected them.
OK, I did examine specs B4 buying but then both don't have fancy paint schemes on them, just plain black.
(LOL, someone else used it and I had to re adjust the head straps to get it to my comfort level.)

From my investigations I suspect that no matter the price or supplier they all use the same 'guts'.

I'll add that I always do a little 'test' B4 I start a welding session.
My test consists of a simple 'Flick of my Bick' , (lighter that is) and if the flint spark pushes the helmet into 'weld mode' I feel good to go.

 

[dragoneggs]

I'm a hobbyist welder. Have a nice Miller MIG. Started with a HF cheapo. I think mine was defective as the auto dark seemed faulty. Upgraded to a $100 Miller Classic that does great especially after I added a cheater lens. Do wish I had a larger viewing area but cannot justify the expense for my occasional use.

 

[TractorGuy]

I can't remember how old my HF hood is but I bought it the first month they were open in my town. No change in performance unless I forget to check the darkness dial which can get moved easily. I store it under my leather apron to keep the dust off so I have got in the habit of checking the dial before I put it on. If my battery fails now I'm gonna blame you guys!

 

[tommy49]

I found that cataract surgery solved the problem of not seeing the arc. If you have trouble seeing the arc with the auto-darken set all the way down, get your eyes checked. Even the lighting in my shop is brighter than it's ever been.

 

[gsganzer]

I find that keeping the lenses clean and clear makes a huge difference. I'm not very good about protecting the lens and mine gets scratched and needs changed/cleaned frequently.

I have an autodarkening that I find to be a complete PITA if using outdoors. It prematurely darkens in certain positions with the sunlight or there's such glare/reflection that it's difficult to see clearly. Some folks have suggested trying a pancake welding shield, so I've started to look at them. With the pancake, you sand them to fit snuggly around your brow, reducing background glare/reflection.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I bet a friend has ten various helmets lying around the shop. I could try them, but am a little squeemish about that. Like, I don't really like anyone using mine. I know it's dumb, but we all have our kwirks.

 

[k0ua]

I use high intensity lighting, which allows me to see the welding process perfectly using the HF adjustable helmet on a 10 setting. the problem with the helmet is just that the batteries are non replaceable, except by an engineer that can fix that problem.. BTDT.. there are overly expensive helmets that have replaceable batteries, with a battery holder and is easily accessible..

Well. there is a little thread I started dealing with that battery issue.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...l-welding-helmet-puked.html?highlight=welding

 

[AWSubie]

I am a hobbyist welder. I have found that being able to see where I’m welding is mostly influenced by two factors: 1) line of sight to the wire or stick; I like to be in a position that I can see both the weld pool and the base material. When I first started welding I looked from above the wire or stick and this position prevented me from seeing the base material and where I was going and led to me wandering off my intended path.

2) distance of the wire or stick from the base material; this involves technique. A shorter arc makes it easier for me to see the weld pool but it also reduces the amount of light given off by the arc that illluminates the weld path, sort of a “catch 22”.

I find that if I start losing sight of my path I need to lengthen the arc to light up the path. If I lengthen the arc too much I lose sight of the weld pool and can’t see tie-in of the pool to the base material. So, for me, arc length is constantly be adjusted throughout the length of the weld.

I suppose these factors come naturally to a professional welder whereas I have to focus on these two factors and when I do, I have good results.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I can't hardly imagine the nice welding I could do, if I could actually see everything.

I did learn a little trick last night about welding newly painted surfaces. I found that if I cut the ball off the end of the wire each time, I could strike an arc everytime, as it pierced the paint layer. Not so with the little ball on the end.