auto darkening helmets

[SSdoxie]

The grind mode is OK but you have to remember to turn it back to weld. I'm a slow learning I guess, it took me 3 repetitions to sink in. The switch on mine is inside the hood which requires taking it off to switch, so it is just as easy to take it off and put on the clear face shield, plus is easier to see with clear lens than slightly tinted with my old tired eyes.

 

[Texasmark]

I never did grind with my helmet. I'd weld and then grind and brush and check. Course I weld for myself and I'm not picky on looks as long as the joint looks solid.

 

[Red Horse]

Well guys thx for all the comments. Been on line and doing a lot of comparisons. Stopped at my welding supply house today and ended up buying a Weldcote Klear View auto. 95 bucks. Went on line and that was a fair price. Decent specs for money. 4 arc sensors, solar plus two CR2450 batteries. Light shade 4 and variable 9-13. Grind-weld switch.

Looked at a Miller for over twice the money and about same features. Counter guy said they sell a ton of these Weldcotes with 3 yr.warranty and they don't come back.

sad to say Chinese origin-shocker huh? Stay tuned.

 

[daugen]

today is my first day learning how to stick weld, and my two helmets have been indoors in the dark for a few years. An 80 dollar autodarken one and a cheap small screen one as an extra. The latter may have been a waste of money because once I start welding, am pretty sure I'll treat myself to a better helmet, with the four sensors, etc. I wonder if my autodarken helmet will even work.
I guess I should put them outside in the sun this morning? I have spare coin batteries, but never knew about the solar issue, which
one of mine has. I am having a professional welder, a neighbor, come over later this morning to go over my equipment. Have an inverter combo unit bought from this site. I bought it, wife got sick, and it got put away for four years. A bit of delayed gratification but I'm sure the unit will work fine. Wish they provided a manual for it. Need to take my Chromebook to the barn to display the online manual.

Over the last few years I have been collecting a variety of welding tools, a bench, clamps, metal chop saw, all kinds of things to learn how to use today and finally make repairs with.
Have lots of safety equipment, blanket, 3 large pressurized water and ABC fire extinguishers, etc. Intentionally put fuel room at one end of the barn and dedicated welder 240V receptacle at other end.

I have a lot of grinding to do when done, the autogrind feature is on my list now.
Thanks to the OP for this thread, very useful info.

 

[k0ua]

today is my first day learning how to stick weld, and my two helmets have been indoors in the dark for a few years. An 80 dollar autodarken one and a cheap small screen one as an extra. The latter may have been a waste of money because once I start welding, am pretty sure I'll treat myself to a better helmet, with the four sensors, etc. I wonder if my autodarken helmet will even work.
I guess I should put them outside in the sun this morning? I have spare coin batteries, but never knew about the solar issue, which
one of mine has. I am having a professional welder, a neighbor, come over later this morning to go over my equipment. Have an inverter combo unit bought from this site. I bought it, wife got sick, and it got put away for four years. A bit of delayed gratification but I'm sure the unit will work fine. Wish they provided a manual for it. Need to take my Chromebook to the barn to display the online manual.

Over the last few years I have been collecting a variety of welding tools, a bench, clamps, metal chop saw, all kinds of things to learn how to use today and finally make repairs with.
Have lots of safety equipment, blanket, 3 large pressurized water and ABC fire extinguishers, etc. Intentionally put fuel room at one end of the barn and dedicated welder 240V receptacle at other end.

I have a lot of grinding to do when done, the autogrind feature is on my list now.
Thanks to the OP for this thread, very useful info.

Hey Drew, 7014 is an easy rod to start learning on. Some people call it "idiot rod" or "monkey rod", because it starts fairly easily and doesn't stick to the weldment as bad as others. It does require higher current than some others. Go to Millerwelds.com to find the starting settings, or load the android app on your phone or tablet. Good starting guidelines.

Test your auto dark helmet by either looking through it at a bright light or the sun before you strike you arc.

 

[Ford850]

My only complaint with the HF AD helmets is lack of grinder mode. I would love to use it to grind with, but it darkens with the sparks so I have to use a clear face shield.

My HF helmets have a grind mode setting. Maybe it's something they added over the years.

 

[Ford850]

The blue flame HF helmets come in 2 varieties. They usually have them stacked together in the store, and the sales or coupons always list both model numbers. They seem like they offer the same features, but they are slightly different shapes. Other than HF getting them from 2 suppliers, is there a difference between the 2?

 

[stuckmotor]

My HF helmet has grinder mode too. The switch is on the outside so I can reach it without removing the helmet. My problem is, I can't see where to turn the switch when I'm ready to quit grinding and resume welding. I figure if I have to remove the helmet I might as well put on a full face shield to grind. That's what I do and the shield is lighter anyway.

 

[PJSprog]

today is my first day learning how to stick weld, ...

I started teaching myself in earnest over the weekend, using my new HF DC inverter. I definitely need some practice to get prettier welds, but I was surprised that after a couple of rods I was able to lay a fairly straight bead. I've gleaned a lot of info from the welding forum here, and some decently informative YouTube videos. However, I'll need to get some one-on-one from someone with more experience.

Hey Drew, 7014 is an easy rod to start learning on.

I'll second this. the 1/16" was very easy to use, but it goes quickly. Buy the 2# pack.

 

[daugen]

thanks guys, don't want to hijack OP's thread. those rods were first ones I've bought and I've watched Youtube videos but most of those videos are hard to see what is really going on. Practice....

 

[Fallon]

Its always good to have spare helmets. Sometimes your main helmet breaks, or wont fit some where, you have a helper/fitter that needs protection, etc. Keeping a spare working cheap NT or HF helmet around is always a great idea.

 

[k0ua]

Its always good to have spare helmets. Sometimes your main helmet breaks, or wont fit some where, you have a helper/fitter that needs protection, etc. Keeping a spare working cheap NT or HF helmet around is always a great idea.

Amen to that. I have 2 spares. Need them sometimes.

 

[scdeerslayer]

I just started learning over the weekend too. Used some 6011 and 6013 rods. Next will be 7018. I bought a new auto-darkening helmet and at first I didn't realize what I was supposed to be seeing because it was turned up to dark. It was set at 11 and recommended starting at 12 then work down. I wound up at a little over 9. The little thin stuff was the hardest, trying to get a good weld quickly without burning a hole through it. Once I finished with that I moved to thicker stuff and did really well with that. Even practiced welding expanded metal to angle since I want to make a better grill guard for the tractor and that went well too. None of the welds look particularly great but are solid. They look as good or better than my dad's welds, but he's been getting worse, I think a combination of bad eyes and a shorter fuse on his patience with stuff like that.

 

[Shaneard]

I just started learning over the weekend too. Used some 6011 and 6013 rods. Next will be 7018. I bought a new auto-darkening helmet and at first I didn't realize what I was supposed to be seeing because it was turned up to dark. It was set at 11 and recommended starting at 12 then work down. I wound up at a little over 9. The little thin stuff was the hardest, trying to get a good weld quickly without burning a hole through it. Once I finished with that I moved to thicker stuff and did really well with that. Even practiced welding expanded metal to angle since I want to make a better grill guard for the tractor and that went well too. None of the welds look particularly great but are solid. They look as good or better than my dad's welds, but he's been getting worse, I think a combination of bad eyes and a shorter fuse on his patience with stuff like that.

6013 is the easiest rod to weld with to me, 7018 holds well but you need to turn your heat up and it's harder to strike an arc with after the initial arc because the burn back of the rod in the flux. When welding the thinner stuff it's hard to do with a stick welder, there's a fine line between being hot enough to weld it and to hot and not burn a hole in it. Keep practicing, I been welding for 31 years and it's still cool to me. Mig welding is the easiest but more expensive, I stick welded for 10 years before ever migging and migging is so much easier. Stick is better on rusted or painted metal with a 6013 it will eat right through it whereas with a mig you have to have it clean etc.

 

[Big Barn]

6013 is the easiest rod to weld with to me, 7018 holds well but you need to turn your heat up and it's harder to strike an arc with after the initial arc because the burn back of the rod in the flux. When welding the thinner stuff it's hard to do with a stick welder, there's a fine line between being hot enough to weld it and to hot and not burn a hole in it. Keep practicing, I been welding for 31 years and it's still cool to me. Mig welding is the easiest but more expensive, I stick welded for 10 years before ever migging and migging is so much easier. Stick is better on rusted or painted metal with a 6013 it will eat right through it whereas with a mig you have to have it clean etc.

Same here. For the first 30 years all I ever used was 6013 (and 6011 occasionally.)

 

[bcp]

Originally Posted by orezok
I've been using a Striker helmet from Usaweld for about 5 years and I like it a lot. Good clear view, I've dropped it one too many times and the lens is now damaged. I just ordered a new one Striker Supreme Welding Helmet, Welding Gun Accessories, Metal Working, Welder Supplies | USAWeld.com
For $99 free shipping no tax. Check out the specs.

I finally looked at the banner of your avatar and nearly fell out of my chair laughing. :thumbsup:

I like it, too.

Bruce

 

[scdeerslayer]

6013 is the easiest rod to weld with to me, 7018 holds well but you need to turn your heat up and it's harder to strike an arc with after the initial arc because the burn back of the rod in the flux. When welding the thinner stuff it's hard to do with a stick welder, there's a fine line between being hot enough to weld it and to hot and not burn a hole in it. Keep practicing, I been welding for 31 years and it's still cool to me. Mig welding is the easiest but more expensive, I stick welded for 10 years before ever migging and migging is so much easier. Stick is better on rusted or painted metal with a 6013 it will eat right through it whereas with a mig you have to have it clean etc.

Oh yeah I know it needs to be turned up for 70xx rods. I found this little guide about that:

I'm going to print that out and laminate and keep it near the welder. I figure I'll mostly use 6013 and use the 7018 for the heavy duty stuff.

 

[k0ua]

The thing about 6013, is that it is easier to have slag entrapment in the bead if you long arc it. I have made some nice beads with 6013 too, and also often use the 3/32 or even 1/16 for some quick tacks. but it is not my favorite rod. It is easier to tack with a 6013 or a 7014 than a 7018, but 7018 is my "go to"rod when I want the beads to look the best they can and be the strongest they can be. I always break off the little glassy looking "corn" that forms on the end of a 7018 off with my gloved thumb before restriking. It is faster than a file, or pecking around to try to get it to break off. I have been doing that for quite a while and so far no problems with that method.

 

[Ford850]

6013 is the easiest rod to weld with to me, 7018 holds well but you need to turn your heat up and it's harder to strike an arc with after the initial arc because the burn back of the rod in the flux. When welding the thinner stuff it's hard to do with a stick welder, there's a fine line between being hot enough to weld it and to hot and not burn a hole in it. Keep practicing, I been welding for 31 years and it's still cool to me. Mig welding is the easiest but more expensive, I stick welded for 10 years before ever migging and migging is so much easier. Stick is better on rusted or painted metal with a 6013 it will eat right through it whereas with a mig you have to have it clean etc.

I didn't know 6013 was good for painted or rusty metal. I thought that duty was reserved for 6011.

 

[daugen]

I always break off the little glassy looking "corn" that forms on the end of a 7018 off with my gloved thumb

I think I might wait awhile before I try that...
I probably want the hair on my right arm to match what is on the left...
and yes, I have gloves and a real Miller welding shirt. Thing looks way too hot to wear...
I just watched today.
But I whacked away at my first bead , on a piece of junk test metal. Which was really too thin,
need to practice on a thicker piece. Dropped amps from 120 down to 85 and it ran fine after melting holes
to begin with.