Automotive question

[LD1]

All great suggestions so far.

But the first thing I would do is pull the valve covers and check the lash.

This will be a less than one beer job:laughing:

Now before everyone jumps the gun and says hydraulic lifters...not adjustable...etc, please read on.

What happens in a car that sits for a long time, the valves that are still hanging open (lifter up), the valve spring and push rod are trying VERY hard to push the lifter down. This cannot happen because of the cam lobe. Over time, the oil will bleed out of the lifter and the little piston in there will be at the bottom.

If the car continues to set, sometimes these little pistons can get stuck and NOT pump back up when the engine is ran. 40PSI of oil pressure on a little 3/4" piston is less than 20lbs of force:confused2: NOT counting leak-by

By checking the lash with the valves CLOSED, of there is ANY play in ANY of them, more than likely the piston is stuck at the bottom of the lifter.

As others have suggested, change oil, run a solvent based additive or some ATF, and run the car awhile and see if it frees up.

If it does not, you'll either have to live with it, or take the lifters out.

You shouldnt have to remove the heads, just the valve covers and intake manifold. Take the rockers off, remove the pushrods, and you should be able to get to the lifters:thumbsup:

 

[AchingBack]

The designer of the Monte Carlo should be forced to ride in one. Surely he would be repentive.

 

[timswi]

sounds like a good candidate for a quality C rated 15w40


soundguy

I'd actually go thinner than that for the "break in"...Need to flush the lifters out.

I would go back to your recommendation, or even 20W50 once things are stable. That was one of my favorite weights of oil for 70's and 80's cars once they had some time on the clock, which is all I could afford as a teenager in the late 80's. I've dealt with this more times than I can count.

The "granny" Cutlass Supremes and Delta 88's that I bought had no miles on them and caused me more grief than then cars that were beaten to death when I bought them...Same issues.

 

[timswi]

All great suggestions so far.

But the first thing I would do is pull the valve covers and check the lash.

This will be a less than one beer job:laughing:

Now before everyone jumps the gun and says hydraulic lifters...not adjustable...etc, please read on.

What happens in a car that sits for a long time, the valves that are still hanging open (lifter up), the valve spring and push rod are trying VERY hard to push the lifter down. This cannot happen because of the cam lobe. Over time, the oil will bleed out of the lifter and the little piston in there will be at the bottom.

If the car continues to set, sometimes these little pistons can get stuck and NOT pump back up when the engine is ran. 40PSI of oil pressure on a little 3/4" piston is less than 20lbs of force:confused2: NOT counting leak-by

By checking the lash with the valves CLOSED, of there is ANY play in ANY of them, more than likely the piston is stuck at the bottom of the lifter.

As others have suggested, change oil, run a solvent based additive or some ATF, and run the car awhile and see if it frees up.

If it does not, you'll either have to live with it, or take the lifters out.

You shouldnt have to remove the heads, just the valve covers and intake manifold. Take the rockers off, remove the pushrods, and you should be able to get to the lifters:thumbsup:

You quantified my generic description...If I remember correctly, the intake would have to come off to get the lifters out..The heads can stay...

 

[Soundguy]

reason I mentioned a 15w40 as you find that as a c rated oil.. whereas the 20w50 is usually S rated. the c rated likely has more zddp in it than the S.. even though there have been broad reductions .. etc.

still.. I agree.. use the loose-juice solvent laden oil to get stuff moving.. then go to a good c rated oil. heck.. 10w30 can be found in the northern areas in a c rating..

soundguy

I'd actually go thinner than that for the "break in"...Need to flush the lifters out.

I would go back to your recommendation, or even 20W50 once things are stable. That was one of my favorite weights of oil for 70's and 80's cars once they had some time on the clock, which is all I could afford as a teenager in the late 80's. I've dealt with this more times than I can count.

The "granny" Cutlass Supremes and Delta 88's that I bought had no miles on them and caused me more grief than then cars that were beaten to death when I bought them...Same issues.

 

[gregsons]

Ok i was able to look at, and had a neighbor look at it as well. its a push rod. To me thats better then a lifter, Well a lifter that would not pump itself up. And knowing my luck it wouldnt have. Now i just need some free time to work on it.

 

[LD1]

Ok i was able to look at, and had a neighbor look at it as well. its a push rod. To me thats better then a lifter, Well a lifter that would not pump itself up. And knowing my luck it wouldnt have. Now i just need some free time to work on it.

what was wrong with the pushrod?? Bent?

 

[B7510HSD]

Ok i was able to look at, and had a neighbor look at it as well. its a push rod. To me thats better then a lifter, Well a lifter that would not pump itself up. And knowing my luck it wouldnt have. Now i just need some free time to work on it.

Simple fix BUT what caused the problem!!??