Auxiliary lights on a 3830

[imaohw]

I want to add some lights to my 3830 for my rear snowblower. Does anyone know the best place for me to splice into the wiring. It would be nice to have them work with the headlight switch.

 

[WayneW]

On my B7610 there was a circuit labled "work light" with a 20amp fuse. The line ran to the back, under the seat and was taped to the harness with electrical tape. Worked great. Just wired a switch between it and the lights on the ROPS.

Maybe the 3830 has a similar circuit.

 

[texbaylea]

There is a 2 wire connector on the right and back of the seat platform that is intended for the Kubota work light accessory. It is not switched. On my L3130 it is a green block.

Vernon

 

[bugstruck]

Vernon has it, exactly as described on the 3130. Wish I had known that a week ago. Having just run a fused circuit back in a wiring jacket to the dash and then on to the lights I installed last Sunday, I can tell you its a bit of a fish job at the lower dash area down to the underside of the operator platform and to the back. Takes longer than you think it ought. Only advantage to the way I did it would be if I wanted another accessory switched at the dash or an auxiliary plug-in. I don't anticiate that though.

As for the lights and location I went with two and I'm glad I did, works great. The trapezoid is mounted to the inside top of the ROPS off to the left (rear view). That one faces forward with the ROPS up and serves as an additional rear light with it down. I put it to the side cause of the hoe. The second is a flood and is angle mounted on the sloped portion of the ROPS on the right side (rear view). Was not to sure about that but it splays the flood light better across the entire operation area of the hoe in that position. Just had to see it in operation to be convinced. The difference is incredible. No real need for the factory lights and the upper ROPS light is a double benefit. Illuminates the operator area (no canopy) and isn't easily blocked by the FEL bucket like the factory lights are. Both lights are 55W halogen and the single trapezoid reaches out allot further than you'll ever need at 2x tractor speeds. Almost like working in daylight.

Guess you can gather by now I'm all for it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Having run a boat for years I always opt for quality switches. They usually run in the $7.00 range but they last. The metal ones with a rubber toggle cover and sealed backs seem to last the longest of any in my marine experience. It's not a dedicated marine switch. Put a little, no , allot of grease on the switch post before you screw it on. Lubes the rubber and provides second moisture barrier.

Your gonna like it!!

Good Luck,

 

[Turbo_Peruvian]

I also want to add rear work lights on my L3830. Being a new owner, I appreciate the help provided here in finding the wiring. But, where does one find the lights? The ones I have looked at either don't have a bracket wide enough for the ROPS, or the mount stub is too short. Are you using the Kubota light kit?

 

[rbcsaver]

Here are some pics of the overhead light brackets and rear work light that I fabricated. Now I just apparently need the alternator upgrade.
regards,

Steve

 

[rbcsaver]

The Brackets are snugged with bolts around the ROPS and padded with foam weather stripping. I can shake the whole tractor just by pulling on the light brackets.

I also did not now about the auxilliary work light wiring. I tied everything into the rear lights so that they come on with the light switch. Part of the reason for this has been time constraints on my part. Perhaps next summer I will pull the apparently tough to get at dash off and add separate switches. The only concern with using the existing light switch is that it may or may not be designed to handle the extra amps of added lights.

 

[johnday]

Turbo; How about square U-bolts and a piece of 1 1/2" strap? These face forward, just turn yours around. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[bugstruck]

Turbo, I did the same thing Steve noted. Simply made two brackets from 3/16 x 1 1/4" flat steel that span the ROPS bar with enough overhang on each side to drill and run some 5/16" x maybe 3" bolts through. Countersunk one plate at each location to take a 1/4 x 20 x 1" flat head screw which connects the light bracket to the plate. I used foam pipe insulation sandwiched flat between the bracket and the ROPS. Same principal as Steve's top lights. You'll be lucky to find any light with a bracket to mount directly to the ROPS.

Steve, What, you going to play a night game under those lights? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif That's more auxillary lighting than I have and I'm thinking it's like daytime!!

Good Luck,

 

[rbcsaver]

Rear bracket I fabricated from 1" stock in a vise, the weld a piece of 20 GA sheet on the back.