Vernon has it, exactly as described on the 3130. Wish I had known that a week ago. Having just run a fused circuit back in a wiring jacket to the dash and then on to the lights I installed last Sunday, I can tell you its a bit of a fish job at the lower dash area down to the underside of the operator platform and to the back. Takes longer than you think it ought. Only advantage to the way I did it would be if I wanted another accessory switched at the dash or an auxiliary plug-in. I don't anticiate that though.
As for the lights and location I went with two and I'm glad I did, works great. The trapezoid is mounted to the inside top of the ROPS off to the left (rear view). That one faces forward with the ROPS up and serves as an additional rear light with it down. I put it to the side cause of the hoe. The second is a flood and is angle mounted on the sloped portion of the ROPS on the right side (rear view). Was not to sure about that but it splays the flood light better across the entire operation area of the hoe in that position. Just had to see it in operation to be convinced. The difference is incredible. No real need for the factory lights and the upper ROPS light is a double benefit. Illuminates the operator area (no canopy) and isn't easily blocked by the FEL bucket like the factory lights are. Both lights are 55W halogen and the single trapezoid reaches out allot further than you'll ever need at 2x tractor speeds. Almost like working in daylight.
Guess you can gather by now I'm all for it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Having run a boat for years I always opt for quality switches. They usually run in the $7.00 range but they last. The metal ones with a rubber toggle cover and sealed backs seem to last the longest of any in my marine experience. It's not a dedicated marine switch. Put a little, no , allot of grease on the switch post before you screw it on. Lubes the rubber and provides second moisture barrier.
Your gonna like it!!
Good Luck,