B21 - Remove Backhoe

PointyHairedBoss · Jan 4, 2011

I'm trying to remove the backhoe from my new-to-me 2004 B21 for the first time. The shop manual pages are attached below.

I raised the rear wheels as noted in Step 1 but I am stuck on Step 2 - I can't budge the mount levers. Am I missing something?

Also, Step 3 says to "set snap pins to the release position"??? - didn't I just remove those in Step 2?

BruceWard · Jan 4, 2011

The instructions are wrong. I beleive they may be different in the backhoe manual. Step 3 should be to pull or hammer the two round levers that were locked by the snap pins to the rear release position.

BruceWard · Jan 4, 2011

The instructions from the stickers stuck to a B21 can be read here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...instruction-sticker-removing-b21-backhoe.html

BruceWard · Jan 4, 2011

The snap pins are hitch pins near the bottom of the mount levers. Remove the pins then hammer the levers open. The mount levers may be difficult to move if they have not been opened for a while. Mine have to be hammered to open and I take the backhoe off atleast once a year.

PointyHairedBoss · Jan 4, 2011

BruceWard said:
The instructions from the stickers stuck to a B21 can be read here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...instruction-sticker-removing-b21-backhoe.html

Ha. I found that exact sticker on my backhoe.
When I looked.:laughing:

I relieved the weight using the backhoe boom as directed. The pins move easily when I pry them with a screwdriver. My problem is that the levers are frozen in position. I'll soak with WD40 & try again tomorrow.

eepete · Jan 4, 2011

If you get the lock pins (moved with the levers) to pull back, then lock them in the back position with the hairpin.

Then you kinda have to fool around with the boom jiggling things to get the "jaws" to open. I have the stabilizers down at this time too, about 1 inch off the floor. BTW, I put little plywood squares down so the concrete doesn't get dinged up since you'll be using the stabilizer to lift up the backhoe after you've lowered the back end a bit. Also put a piece of plywood under the bucket end.

I also put a cinderblock with a 2x6 on it under the entire assembly. After I have the backhoe off, I lower it onto the cinder block so that the stabilizers and the block are helping to hold it all up.

You kinda have to just play with it, and you'll what movements it takes. The first time I took it off was about 20 minutes of messing around, now I can take it off in about 3 minutes. It's a good idea to keep the levers and jaws lubed, and take the backhoe off every year or so to be sure everything is moving OK. Note that you can just open the jaws up and then lock it back down to be sure nothing is frozen.

If you've used WD-40, go back with a thicker oil after it's all moving.

You'll figure it out

Pete

BruceWard · Jan 4, 2011

eepete said:
I also put a cinderblock with a 2x6 on it under the entire assembly. After I have the backhoe off, I lower it onto the cinder block so that the stabilizers and the block are helping to hold it all up.

I lower mine all the way to the ground. I guess it would be better to have it sitting on something elevated to avoid water contact. I have never had mine off for more than a few days at a time. How stable is in on the cinderblock?

eepete · Jan 5, 2011

The 2x6 is wider than the cinder block, and more of less "fits" the bottom of the backhoe. I still have the stabilizers down, so it's plenty stable. It's just easier to back up to it and do the initial hook-up when it's up in the air a bit.

I also tend to leave it on, taking it off only to put on my tiller or landscape rake for the project of the week. I'm lucky enough now to park it in a tractor garage so water isn't a problem.

Pete

PointyHairedBoss · Jan 5, 2011

The WD40 didn't work.

I thought of moving the set pins back manually since they do wiggle when I load the boom. Then I would have more room to go to work on the frozen pivots once the backhoe was out of the way. But they are connected to the mount levers with small pins & I can't get those out either (see photo).

I saw another thread discussing penetrating oils so I'll try something else.

Craig Clayton · Jan 5, 2011

Coca Cola is one of the other penetrating fluids, or Pepsi, maybe DR Pepper.
Craig Clayton

eepete · Jan 5, 2011

Tns for pix, your predicament makes more sense now. I thought the big pin (with the spring around it, the thing the set pin goes through) was not moving.

yeah, you'll have to oil and beat on the "Pivot Frozen" part in your pix to free it up

. Maybe the clip can be removed to help get the oil in?

Once you have it free, it can take a lot of jiggling with the boom and a good hard pul on the lever for the rod to slide back.

Good luck!

Pete

PointyHairedBoss · Jan 6, 2011

eepete:
You were asking: "Did your levelers for the backhoe every get freed up?" in one of the other threads - I assume you are referring to my problem here so I'll post my comments here.

After a day of hourly treatments of liquid wrench & a good workout with a sledge, I got one of the levers to pivot. On the other one, I broke off the handle where it is welded to the pivot. I thought I could remove the small set pin from the big pin & manually pull the big pin back but the dog welded to the end of the big pin will not clear the ear on the pivot (check photo on previous post). To remove the backhoe there is no choice but to rotate the pivot or cut off the ears on the pivot (as a last resort). Either procedure is difficult in such a confined area.

I managed to bang on one of the ears with a sledge & piece of rebar to rotate it enough for the dog to slide out. I think now I'm ready to remove the backhoe, then I can remove / repair the pivot levers, clean them up & put some anti-sieze on before reassembly.

I don't think the backhoe had ever been removed.

eepete · Jan 6, 2011

Wow, what an ordeal. But you're making good progress and once the backhoe is removed you can fix the pivot lever.

I'm sure that you'll be lubricating things on a regular basis, and working that mechanism (even if you don't remove the backhoe) every year.

It's all worth it- it's a great little rugged machine :thumbsup:

Pete

nvr-enuf · Jan 6, 2011

I can imagine that the pins could rust / seize tight.

However, that being said, I can say that I am not able to get my B21 backhoe off unless I have the right amount of force acting on the bucket / lifting the rear of the tractor up. If I have too much, I can not get the levers moved and if the bucket is not on the ground, same deal - can not move the levers.

Again - just a suggestion in finding the sweet spot once you fix the levers.

SAS

ruren · Jan 6, 2011

I had the same problem with the B21 I used to own. When I bought it used it was around six or seven years old and the backhoe had never been removed. Everything was really stiff, but I managed to work it loose with some lube, some rocking of the parts with the stabilizers, and some hammering. Once I got it apart and put it back together with some carefull application of grease and oil it worked much better. Still had to gently use the rubber mallet on the levers to get it off somtimes though. It seemed to me there are a few spots that should have had grease fittings in there when they engineered it. I'm sure once you get through the first time it will work a lot better.

PointyHairedBoss said:
eepete:
You were asking: "Did your levelers for the backhoe every get freed up?" in one of the other threads - I assume you are referring to my problem here so I'll post my comments here.

After a day of hourly treatments of liquid wrench & a good workout with a sledge, I got one of the levers to pivot. On the other one, I broke off the handle where it is welded to the pivot. I thought I could remove the small set pin from the big pin & manually pull the big pin back but the dog welded to the end of the big pin will not clear the ear on the pivot (check photo on previous post). To remove the backhoe there is no choice but to rotate the pivot or cut off the ears on the pivot (as a last resort). Either procedure is difficult in such a confined area.

I managed to bang on one of the ears with a sledge & piece of rebar to rotate it enough for the dog to slide out. I think now I'm ready to remove the backhoe, then I can remove / repair the pivot levers, clean them up & put some anti-sieze on before reassembly.

I don't think the backhoe had ever been removed.

PointyHairedBoss · Jan 7, 2011

nvr-enuf said:
I can imagine that the pins could rust / seize tight.

However, that being said, I can say that I am not able to get my B21 backhoe off unless I have the right amount of force acting on the bucket / lifting the rear of the tractor up. If I have too much, I can not get the levers moved and if the bucket is not on the ground, same deal - can not move the levers.

Again - just a suggestion in finding the sweet spot once you fix the levers.

SAS

Once the levers had been pivoted enough I had no trouble moving the big pins out of the way - that was never an issue. Disconnecting the backhoe from the tractor using the boom & stabilizers was relatively easy.

I'm still stuck with getting the levers off the frame but at least now I have more room to work at it. I'll post some photos later.

PointyHairedBoss · Jan 7, 2011

eepete said:
... I'm sure that you'll be lubricating things on a regular basis, and working that mechanism (even if you don't remove the backhoe) every year. ...Pete

That's for sure.
I'm thinking of using anti-sieze when I put the levers back on the pins. Is this better than grease?

eepete · Jan 7, 2011

PointyHairedBoss said:
I'm thinking of using anti-sieze when I put the levers back on the pins. Is this better than grease?

I don't know. I use a light oil on it, but it's never been rusted or seized up. Perhaps someone who's been in your exact shoes (rusted up, then freed, then cleaned, then ready to go back together) can chime in, but I'm over my pay grade on this one.

My gut feel is that if you have a 2-3 inch shaft like that, and it does not have a grease fitting on it, that light oil or fluid film is the thing to use because it will penetrate in over the entire surface. I mention this in hopes that the soon to chime in expert will comment on this thought

.

Pete

PointyHairedBoss · Jan 7, 2011

The backhoe is off the tractor. I originally wanted to remove it to get at the 2 rear hydraulic fluid drain ports. I didn't realize this was going to be such a diversion.

The photo shows a remaining chore. Both pin levers are still on the frame. The one in the photo shows where the lever handle broke off from my attempt to rotate it. After that I used a sledge & piece of rebar to wail on it enough to rotate the ears out of the way so the big pin could retract. Check out the deformation from the beating I laid on this poor piece of metal.

The pivots are still frozen to the frame pins but at least now I have more room to work.

I need to get some penetrating oil into the middle of the joint. I thought I could drill some holes through the sleeve in various locations & oil through them. Anybody ever tried this?