B2150 cracked axle housing

kcarl · Feb 7, 2009

I snagged a concrete pipe from one end while pulling a boxblade, which cracked the left rear axle housing on my Kubota B2150HSD. The hairline crack is located in the housing between where the lift arm pin is bolted on and the axle housing area. The crack is so fine it took a while to locate even with hydraulic fluid weeping through. It looks to be 1.75" long. Anyway, I have no idea what a replacement costs, but wondered if welding is an option. If so, what should I ask a welder to ensure he knows what he's doing.

Also, would anyone have a guess as to what a new housing would cost? I feel confident I can change it out myself and assume I'll have to remove it either way.

BTW, I've had the 2150 about 10 years, and it's been incredibly tough and reliable, but I hit this pipe so hard, the seat belt took the breath out of me and popped my back - saw stars for a moment.

Thanks,
Kcarl

Hooked_on_HP · Feb 7, 2009

Do yourself a favor and replace the housing. Even though the crack is only 1.75" long the whole housing has to be stressed and the crack will probably spread. Even if you do get it welded you will be worried about it cracking again.
Bill

sandman2234 · Feb 7, 2009

Probably won't cost much to try to weld it, but the part will have to be cleaned and oil free if it is made of aluminum in order for a weld to stick. Look around and find a good used housing, and then attempt to repair it. If it works, you have a spare. If not, your just out a little work and the cost of the labor.
David from jax

kcarl · Feb 9, 2009

Thanks for replying. I managed to find a salvaged part, though still expensive, I agree it's the best route to take. My concern with welding is that the crack is so close to the pivot point for the lower lift arm. If the weld fails, it might also take out the differential box. Hopefully changing it out won't be too bad.

kcarl

rdbrumfield · Feb 9, 2009

Absoulutely the best way to go. Chances are that where the lift links connect to the housing there will be some stress on the whole area. I would also change out all the bolts in the area of the crack. They could be overstressed and fail later even though they look fine now.

kcarl · Feb 16, 2009

I received an axle housing from West Kentucky Tractor this week. It arrived within 3 days of ordering. Seem to be very nice people to work with. I removed the old housing, the most difficult task being removing bolts from the rear tires. Anyone have any suggestions for keeping the bolts from seizing again?

Thanks,
kcarl

digger2 · Feb 16, 2009

Anti seize compound.I like the copper formula,seems to work the best for me.You can also get the white stuff,i think thats for the food industries.
Anytime i assemble things anymore i'm in the habit of using this stuff.
Espeicially when i'm assembling steel bolts into aluminum.Aluminum against steel will cause trouble over time.
It does'nt take much,just a coating on the threads.For threaded holes,
i use a piece of stiff wire coated with anti seize to get it down in.Dont put too much in a blind hole,you wont get the bolt all the way in.
Digger2
P.S.-Don't get the copper stuff on anything you care about,it stains(even skin).

ToddW · Feb 16, 2009

kcarl said:
Anyone have any suggestions for keeping the bolts from seizing again?

Thanks,
kcarl

Use an anti-seize compound like never-seez ?

/Todd

horse7 · Feb 16, 2009

Anti-seize is great stuff. Torque to the upper end of the recommended range, the lubricating qualities of the anti-seize make it easier to under torque.

One big problem with a lot of mechanics is that they don't use anti-seize, I've had them complaining at me about frozen Al wheels on hubs (tire rotation) and I told them-- well you should have used anti-seize LIKE I TOLD YOU TO the last time I was here... I've never had problems getting wheels off if I use a film of anti-seize on them, but I've had to use sledge hammers on ones w/o anti-seize (yes I know about loosening the lugs and braking, but that makes me a little nervous).