B2710

   / B2710 #1  

back_the_pack

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2002
Messages
34
Location
Western NC
Tractor
1998 NH 1920 4x4
I am looking to buy my first tractor, and I have a few questions for you guys. First, I am looking for one with a FEL and a backhoe. I have found a B2710 at a local dealer with both of these attachments. The asking price is $15,000. Is this a good deal? Also, is this tractor going to be heavy duty enough to use the backhoe as the primary use?
 
   / B2710 #2  
Wow, Thats a great price!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif How many hours are on it? If the hours are low I would jump on it if I were you. The B2710 is a real work horse and should handle anything you need to do, unless you are digging ponds and basements. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
 
   / B2710
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I don't know about the hours yet. I just saw it in the paper and haven't even checked it out yet. What all should I look for when inspecting it. I know I need to check overall condition, hydraluic leaks, and hours. What else do I need to look for?
 
   / B2710 #4  
Be sure to check all of the pivot points and hoses real good. There is alot of hose on a hoe and if you have to replace it and maybe rebuild a couple of valves it can get mighty expensive. If it was just for every now and then work you would probably be O.K with a worn out hoe. I've got one myself. Also is the FEL and B-H Kubota? Typically the factory brands are built a little better than aftermarket ones. For heavy use make sure the hoe is sub-frame mount. Now for the advertisement part; FYI You could probably get a NEW Kioti with a hoe and FEL for about another 2K or so with a warranty.
Ob1
 
   / B2710
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Well Ob1, I have been very interested in the Kioti tractors. I sure haven't found any that cheap. The 1914 is the only one that comes close, but it doesn't have enough power. If you can point me to a comprable machine, for only a few thousand more, I would take it in a second!
 
   / B2710 #6  
Only problem is NO HYDRO!!!!! Its not worth it, even if its $2k less. JMHO.
 
   / B2710 #7  
Back the Pack,

Here is Kioti pricing information that Ranchman posted for me over in the Kioti section. I don't know what dealer he got the info. from. I had just asked for some basic base prices to use as a starting point. Hope this helps.

<font color=blue>Here's a sampling of Kioti pricing I pulled off a dealer's website. Of course, there may be other dealers with better/worse deals, but this may give you the "idea" you were wanting. Hope this helps....

Model / HP / Price / Price With Loader
LK1914 19hp $ 8,999 $12,299
LK2552 24hp $ 8,999
LK2554 24hp $ 9,925 $13,329
LK3052 30hp $10,999 $14,699
LK3054 30hp $11,099 $14,799
LK3504 35hp $12,899 $16,598
DK35 35hp $13,099 $16,599
DK40 40hp $14,499 $18,298
DK45 45hp $15,399 $19,199
DK50 49hp $17,399 $21,198 </font color=blue>
 
   / B2710 #8  
It all depends on the person. I'll put my 35HP geardrive against a 35HP hydro lets see who pulls who!! Hydros are horsepower hogs. But if that's what you have to have then that's fine but I myself don't see all that big of deal about not having a hydro. Around here hydros are outsold by geardrive by a large margin. It must depend on what part of the country you are in. The local Cub dealer sells both for the same price and still sells more gear than hydro.
BTI
 
   / B2710 #9  
BTI, Yes you are right, you do lose more HP with a hydro than you do with a gear. And a gear tractor is much better if you are using ground braking implements, and going in long straight runs. But for mowing and doing loader work, or anything that requires you to change directions or speed alot, hydro wins hands down. Its not just me that will tell you that, this subject has been beaten to death. Do a search on hydro vs gear and you will have hours and hours of reading!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / B2710 #10  
BTI, that's the reason they make both kinds; some prefer one, some the other. I think it's kinda like the difference between manual and automatic transmissions in cars and pickups, and having had considerable experience with both types of transmissions (in tractors, as well as cars and pickups), the manual is great for long straight runs (like interstate highways or country roads for cars, and plowing big fields for tractors), but for lots of stop and go and maneuvering (big city traffic for cars and mowing and FEL work with tractors) automatics and hydros sure are nice./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif And besides, in most compact tractors you run out of traction before you run out of power anyway.
 

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