b3030 vs b7800

Bird · Oct 27, 2005

( I cant wait to justify the need for remotes and TnT )

In my opinion, if you've never used a box blade before, the first time you use it is when you'll decided the TNT is justified. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I've seen some folks, with many years experience, who could do pretty good work with a box blade without TNT. I was not among them. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif But, WOW!, did the work get fast and easy after I put the TNT on my little B2710. And of course it also made it much easier to hook up all the other implements on the 3-point.

daTeacha · Oct 27, 2005

This is among the decisions I'll be making soon. I haven't been on the board very long, and have a couple of dumb questions for you guys.

I used to have an 8N with a thing called a "leveler", which kept the 3 pt from moving the implement up and down every time the tractor went over a bump. My B7100 is lousy with a 6' back blade because the little 48" wheel base transmits every existing irregularity into a larger motion of the blade. Does "position control" act like the leveler on the Ford used to? If not, what does it do other than hold the implement in the same spot with respect to the tractor?

What is TNT? I know it's tri-nitro-toluene, but that is hardly a feature I want on my tractor. If I need to blow something up, I can make up my own nitroglycerine at school. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

One of the reasons I want to move up from my B 7100 is stability. I attribute it's tendency to lift a hind leg now and then on my hills largely to the short wheelbase. With a load in the bucket, I can get my bucket off the seat, push on the ROPS, and lift a rear wheel off the ground when the thing is aimed downhill. It only moves the amount the front axle pivots, but that is not a comfortable feeling when you're in the seat. I have the rears loaded with windshield washer fluid, about 125 lb of concrete on the 3 point, and 200 lb of me in the seat. The only way to prevent it is to have the bush hog on the tractor, but that really cuts into maneuverability.

Will a longer but not much wider tractor be more stable? I know enough not to raise the loaded bucket when travelling, and to take it super slow and low on side hills. I'm dreaming about R4 tires, figuring the larger profile will allow more weight when loaded, but I think I can still expect some tippiness when picking up a 12 or 14 foot oak or hickory log.

Comments and advice are much appreciated, as are suggestions of any other smallish models. All the L series I've seen seem too big for the places I need to go in my wooded acreage. There seems to be an endless series of model numbers to spec out, and the Kubota site only lists the new products.

Bird · Oct 28, 2005

I don't know anything about the "leveler" on an 8N, so someone else will have to address that. And I don't know what B7100 you have, but I had a '95 model myself; no position control; i.e., the lever was centered, if you moved it forward the 3-point started down and continued until the lever was centered again, and if you moved it backward, the 3-point started up and continued until the lever was centered (or the 3-point reached the limits of its travel). With position control, the lever stays wherever you turn it loose and the 3-point raises or lowers to that point, stops, and stays there. It will not prevent an implement from raising or lowering, in relation to the ground, if the front wheels go over a hump or through a dip.

TNT = Top 'N Tilt; i.e., hydraulic cylinders for the top link, and one (or both) side links on the 3-point. It just lets you tilt implements front to rear and side to side "on the fly" from the driver's seat.

A longer wheelbase with the same width will help stability some, assuming equal or greater weight for the longer wheelbase machine. I wouldn't want you to put too much confidence in it though.

KubotaOne · Oct 28, 2005

( I used to have an 8N with a thing called a "leveler", which kept the 3 pt from moving the implement up and down every time the tractor went over a bump. )

I believe another name for that is "Draft Control". To the best of my knowledge, none of the smaller Kubota's come equiped with it.

daTeacha · Oct 28, 2005

Thanks much. That form of TNT sounds really handy. It could also be useful when hooking things up, too.

Erniel29 · Oct 31, 2005

Well here is a pic of the new toy, thats me trying to figure out what I'm doing. Manuverability is amazing. now I'm trying to figure out how to use the box blade. I've posted some questions elsewhere on this site.

GL3830HST
LA 723 FEL
Bushhog model 286 72" rotary cutter
Bushhog SBX720 Box blade.

Thanks again to all.

Ernie

riptides · Nov 1, 2005

Sweet!

Box blading is a learned skill with genetic makeup involved... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

-Mike Z.

Erniel29 · Nov 1, 2005

Bird was right, I want a TnT system. Anyone know of an aftermarket setup, or should I go with Kubota?

Ernie

bowhunter3030 · Nov 6, 2005

Yes, no question.

MadReferee · Nov 6, 2005

( I want a TnT system. Anyone know of an aftermarket setup, or should I go with Kubota?)

Do not buy the Kubota cylinders. Almost everyone who has had them has complained that they leak down too much too fast. Besides that, they are way too expensive for what you are getting. Buy the cylinders from CCM that have double pilot operated check valves. This has been discussed many many times here before and there are many satisfied customers.

Do you already have remotes for your L-series? If not then the Kubota remotes are nicely integrated but they are pricey.