B6100 Clutch Replacement

   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #1  

TexJer

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2009
Messages
25
Location
Arlington, Tx
Tractor
Kubota B6100
I'm replacing the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing on my recently purchased B6100. I bought a repair manual and in the directions they show this alignment tool and "thing" (tech term?) you use to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate.

Does anyone have any idea where I can get one of these tools? Is it something my local dealer will sell or rent? If I had some dimensions I could make one at work on a lathe.

Thanks
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #2  
I think it's just a regular old clutch alignment tool isn't it? You can buy "genreic" tools off the rack at an auto parts store. I don't know why that wouldn't work. You can also just align it by sight good enough to make it work in most cases. But, I've never done a Kubota clutch so my advice is also "generic".
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #3  
If you search by my name you'll find a posting of when I did my B's clutch. It was pretty easy, just time consuming. I used a deep well socket that fit in the pilot hole and then added enough tape to the other end of the socket so that the splined disk fit over it tightly.
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks. In reading more into my shop manual they are talking about using this measuring tool that slides over the alignment tool. You use this measuring tool to set the height of the release levers on the pressure plate.

They give a dimension of 1.764 to 1.819, a range of .055. I'm thinking of making a measuring tool of 1.792, which is mid range. In the book they mention you have a tolerance of .012 and to use a feeler gage to set the release levers to the measuring tool. I'm not sure close I should set these. Do I use something like .003? .010? I'm thinking of setting it about .005.

OK, here's the deal.........I've already replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. When I first fired it up I had pretty good clutch but it didn't take long before I didn't have any at all. I've got the adjustment rod maxed out so I know it's not that. I'm thinking I need to set the release levers and make sure something isn't "off" on the throwout bearing.

It was late that night and we got in a hurry, plus the fact I'm not THAT great of a mechanic. Oh well, it'll be pretty easy breaking her down this time now that I've been through it once already.
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement
  • Thread Starter
#5  
KubotainNH, did you adjust the release levers on the pressure plate? I'm beginning to wonder if we don't have something wrong on the throw out bearing. I'm going to do some crawling under and looking before we split her.

Found your post and read about it. I bet having the FEL was a pain on while doing this. Mine has some weights added to the front and I let some jack stands support the front half. I had a floor jack rolled under from the rear and that made it easy to roll apart and back together.
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #6  
G'day had a similar one recently in a Massey it had had new clutch in it 2years ago by mechanic in next town, had done approx 70 hours and was slipping like anything no adjustment left. Split tractor and found aftermarket clutch fitted but with original shims fitted between the flywheel and pressure plate nothing wrong with clutch but newer upgraded clutch was supposed to be fitted without shims is it poss this is whats happened to you ? Pressure plate finger adjustment should not make your clutch dissapear very quick unless you did not have any free travel for a start. Did your press plate come with shipping bolts that compress the press plate so that it makes it easier to fit, did you take these out ??( Usually three bolts through the back cover will not be nuts with screw slots in them) The more i type the more i think that this may be your prob:(. Good luckwith it:)


Jon
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #7  
I just replaced the throwout bearing in my B7100. I used the propeller shaft to realign the clutch at the suggestion of a Kubota mechanic, and it seemed to work good. The shaft should slide forward out of the spline connector at the rear where it goes into the transmission so that you can put it through the clutch and into the pilot bearing. I also found I needed to replace the pilot bearing, Kubota calls it a 'bearing, dry'. There is a seal next to the pilot bearing that should probably be replaced as well.

Mine is a hydrostat, but I think these parts are the same. I didn't do anything with the clutch itself except take it off the flywheel to get to the pilot bearing, then replaced it using the propeller shaft as I stated above.
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement
  • Thread Starter
#8  
G'day had a similar one recently in a Massey it had had new clutch in it 2years ago by mechanic in next town, had done approx 70 hours and was slipping like anything no adjustment left. Split tractor and found aftermarket clutch fitted but with original shims fitted between the flywheel and pressure plate nothing wrong with clutch but newer upgraded clutch was supposed to be fitted without shims is it poss this is whats happened to you ? Pressure plate finger adjustment should not make your clutch dissapear very quick unless you did not have any free travel for a start. Did your press plate come with shipping bolts that compress the press plate so that it makes it easier to fit, did you take these out ??( Usually three bolts through the back cover will not be nuts with screw slots in them) The more i type the more i think that this may be your prob:(. Good luckwith it:)


Jon

Howdy from Tejas. No, didn't notice any type of shipping bolts. I still have the orig. pressure plate so I'll compare them when I split her back in two.

Thanks
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #9  
Mine is a hydrostat, but I think these parts are the same. I didn't do anything with the clutch itself except take it off the flywheel to get to the pilot bearing, then replaced it using the propeller shaft as I stated above.

I didn't think hydros had a clutch.

Do all hydros have a clutch, even to this day?

The International Hydro 74 on my grape harvester has a pedal where the clutch pedal would normally be but this is very light and referred to in the IH book as a dump pedal.

I assumed rightly or wrongly that it allowed the hydro pressure to bypass.
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #10  
My B7100HST and I think all the B series, even the new ones, still have a clutch. You have to use it to engage the PTO. Some use it to change speed ranges, but I generally don't if I'm stopped.
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #11  
TexJer, sorry I didn't see your question earlier. I did not touch the bolts on the pressure plate itself. The adjustment on the outside doesn't take much to make a big difference. If I remember correctly, you want about an inch of pedal play where ever that ends up on the threaded rod. I think if you have it all the way out then you are pushing on the fingers without touching the pedal which would make for slippage. I would thread the adjuster in a ways and then slowly spin it out until you get the pedal play where it needs to be.

The loader actually made the job easier because of the added weight in front of the wheels and extra places to put a jack. Good luck.
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #12  
I just replaced the throwout bearing in my B7100. I used the propeller shaft to realign the clutch at the suggestion of a Kubota mechanic, and it seemed to work good. The shaft should slide forward out of the spline connector at the rear where it goes into the transmission so that you can put it through the clutch and into the pilot bearing. I also found I needed to replace the pilot bearing, Kubota calls it a 'bearing, dry'. There is a seal next to the pilot bearing that should probably be replaced as well.

Same here when I changed the clutch on my b7100 gear, that shaft will come forward enough for you to use it to align the clutch pack. My pilot bearing didn't really look that bad but I had ordered all the parts before taking the tractor apart so I replaced it anyway.
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement
  • Thread Starter
#13  
TexJer, sorry I didn't see your question earlier. I did not touch the bolts on the pressure plate itself. The adjustment on the outside doesn't take much to make a big difference. If I remember correctly, you want about an inch of pedal play where ever that ends up on the threaded rod. I think if you have it all the way out then you are pushing on the fingers without touching the pedal which would make for slippage. I would thread the adjuster in a ways and then slowly spin it out until you get the pedal play where it needs to be.

The loader actually made the job easier because of the added weight in front of the wheels and extra places to put a jack. Good luck.

I've got the pedal adjustment all the way out. I started taking her apart yesterday and hopefully will be able to split it this week. I work nights, 6 pm to 6 am so my "free time" during the week is limited. We've been getting a lot of much needed rain here the past couple of weeks so not having the tractor hasn't been that big of an issue.

Yea, we took the shaft out and used it to align the clutch and pressure plate. I'm going to get on a lathe tonight and make me one of those measuring tools to set the fingers with.
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #14  
I've got the pedal adjustment all the way out.
This is the part that's confusing me. You say all the way out but it needs to be in farther if the clutch is slipping, not out. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you. If you look at the attached picture, especially 10.3, the threaded rod with the "adjustment of play" arrow is the one that should have threads showing out the end toward the front of the tractor. This will move the bottom of the clutch lever toward the back of the tractor which is what you want.
 

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   / B6100 Clutch Replacement
  • Thread Starter
#15  
This is the part that's confusing me. You say all the way out but it needs to be in farther if the clutch is slipping, not out. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you. If you look at the attached picture, especially 10.3, the threaded rod with the "adjustment of play" arrow is the one that should have threads showing out the end toward the front of the tractor. This will move the bottom of the clutch lever toward the back of the tractor which is what you want.

Sorry for the confusion. I have NO clutch.......it won't disengage. I have to idle the engine down and "slip" it into low gear. It's like the throw out bearing isn't engaging the fingers on the pressure plate. I'm going to copy and print the picture you sent to use once I get this figured out.

THANKS!!
 
   / B6100 Clutch Replacement #16  
To answer Allenr,

The new B2630 and B3030 do not have a clutch or mechanical disconnect but just a drive plate. The only way to stop it is to center the hydro pedal.

Most other Kubota hydros use a dry clutch. In a panic stop or for ease of cold starting, it can be useful. It really is along for the ride most of the time.

The old IH hydros used a flex plate to drive the input shaft and the clutch pedal was referred to as a "foot n inch pedal - for inching. It controlled the opening of the relief valves and had no mechanical connection elsewhere.
 

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