Chains B7100 chains and fenders

   / B7100 chains and fenders #1  

MLD

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
44
Location
New Hampshire
Tractor
Kubota B7100
I've found chains at a local dealer that will fit the turf tires on my B7100. These rear tires are very fat 29X1200-15NHS not to mention expensive and the chains will run about $240.00. The problem before buying is will the chains fit between tire and fender?

At close examination I see that the right tire is 1/2 closer to the fender than the left. I thought at first I was seeing things but looking more closely at the hub/axle and then measuring, the right has one 1/2 inch showing while the left is flush to the hub. Curious.

This is a mid eighties tractor and I wonder if this was original from the factory or did the previous owner or dealer do this when installing the inside wheel weights.

So the question is How hard or expensive, I'm no mechanic, will it be to move the right to match the left and will it matter as far as chains. How much clearance is needed between tire and inside fender?
and will those inside wheel weights make it impossible to mount the chains.

The wheel weights seem to be flush with the tire walls so any chain connectors would rest flush to the tire.

MLD
 
   / B7100 chains and fenders #2  
On the B7100 I had There were different width settings for the rear hubs. There were also times the rear hubs would work also loose and work their way inward. I replaced the old style hubs with a newer style that stayed tight and did not loosen.:D

You may be encountering this same type of problem??:confused:

On mine therewas lots of room for the chains.:)
 

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   / B7100 chains and fenders #3  
I found that I had to trim the spring on my B7100 hub as it was coil binding and wouldn't allow the bolt to bottom out and tighten hub. After I did that modification the hub never worked loose again.
 
   / B7100 chains and fenders
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Egon and B2400 Thank you for your reply.

In the light of day it looks like after jacking up the rear end, safely, brakes, chocks, etc. I can just loosen the big nut and spring on the hub and pull the wheel until its flush like the other side. Can it be that easy? all my non- mechanical genes are saying it can't be.

Also can I nudge it a little further like an 1/8 or a 1/4 beyond the hub to give these fat tires more chain room?

I assume when B2400 said trim the spring that means cut some of it off to make a smaller spring therefore more room to tighten.

MLD
 
   / B7100 chains and fenders #5  
Look closely and you will see there are holes in the axle for a retaining pin that goes thru the hub to ensure it is in a set spot. On mine with the original hubs I just used bolts as they broke quite frequently.:D
 
   / B7100 chains and fenders #6  
Yes, I had to trim some of the spring off. As Egon said, there should be locating pins in the hub. when everything is set ,torque the bolt with shortened spring to 105-109lb/ft.
 
   / B7100 chains and fenders #7  
One thing I didn't notice mentioned here, was whether the rims/wheels were "reversed" or not. The wheels were designed with an offset to be mounted "in or out" to give more or less track width, in addition to the selection of locating holes on the axles.

Sherweld
 
   / B7100 chains and fenders
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Gentlemen, again thank you for your replies.

It should be getting a little warmer in the next couple of days and I'll give loosening the hub a try. My concern is: B2400 said that the bolt should be tightened up again with a torque wrench I assume to the tune of 105 to 109 ft.

How crucial is this tightening number, can't I just put it tight or must I be so accurate?

Sherweld, Thats a good question How do you tell if the wheels are reversed? Remember this B7100 is equipped with inside wheel weights.

MLD
 
   / B7100 chains and fenders #9  
Interesting .... don't recall ever seeing inside wheel weights (but then, if they are inside they would be pretty hard to see I guess :eek:)

Suggest you some way measure from the outside of the rim on each side of one of your wheels to determine the offset (if my explanation not clear, google "wheel offset > images") The B7100 wheels I am familiar with are designed to be bolted on with the offset "in" = wider track, or "out" = narrower track. (as well as less fender clearance)

My previous B7100 had factory weights with the wheels "reversed" (offset in) with the weights on the outside making the widest possible stance for safety particularly with a FEL. It somewhat limits passage through some garden gate openings, but I was more concerned with safety.

One other thought, if your wheels are in fact mounted with the offset "out",(narrower) and you decide to mount them "reversed" for a wider track, any tire with a chevron tread should have the chevrons pointing forward on the top of the tire. This would mean the easiest solution would be to swap sides on the tractor rather than just turning the tire around.

Hope that helps .... Regards
Sherweld
 
   / B7100 chains and fenders #10  
[can't I just put it tight or must I be so accurate?
/QUOTE]

Before the new style hubs mine were tightened many times. I do not have a torque wrench.:D
 

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