B7510 VS the JD4110

[jkm]

I was about to purchase the B 7510 and the JD dealer called.

Here is the deal. B7510 with 302 FEL, 60in mmm and 48in box blade for 15422 including taxes at around 735 dollars. JD offered the 4110 with 410 loader 60in MMM and 48in box blade for 15650 before taxes 782.50=16432.50

For the one thousand dollar difference....which one would you recommend?
A couple of points...JD has position control on the 3pt hitch... B7510 has quarter inching valve....not much of a difference.
7510 has 21hp 4110 20hp. almost the same pto hp....both are hst.
60in mmm for 7510 is 10 gauge and 4110 is 7 gauge.
box blade for 7510 is a leinbach jd is frontier...
Please send me your feedback ...I want to go ahead and buy one today...THANKS!

 

[jkm]

One other question...a friend of mine has an L series Kubota and he suggested that I get the back tires loaded....he said that I would need this as a ballast for FEL work....is that accurate?

 

[riptides]

When you sit on them, which one is most comfortable for you?
Are the levels and pedals to your liking?

What about a significant other? Someone other than yourself in line for using it? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Maybe you should get their input too.

I wanted my wife and kids to be comfortable in the operations of my equipment. I could use the help now and then.

Bottom line for me... my butt needed to be comfy and my brain didn't need to work hard to find a lever, switch or pedal.

Oh... your OK with both dealers, service wise? Hear anything positive or negative about them?

Good luck!
-Mike Z. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jkm]

Both equally comfortable...had my wife drive the 7510 and she liked it....Both dealers seem to want my business and both seem great... I have always been a deere guy...but my last purchase had lots of issues....just never owned a kubota and do not have experience with it.

 

[Dutch445]

Here are a couple things to think of while making your decision...
How did you like the drive system,, treadle pedle vs 2 pedals for the hydro?
Where is the hydraulic control valve for the loader on the bota vs. the jd? is it on the loader mast or on the tractor?
did you really drive both to see how they feel from the seat while using the loader ?
you mentioned a heavier mower deck on the jd, what about the loader? are they comparable? or is one heavier than the other.. also what about implement removal etc... i know the 410 loader is 2 mins to get off,, don't know about the botas loader.
service, parts, and resale? all things to consider above dollars and cents.
if you had a bad experience with one jd dealer, how far is the next one?
lots to consider, big investment... both fine machines.

good luck!
/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[riptides]

If you can look past your prior experience with the deere, and "have always been a deere" guy. Hey go with them again.

But, if you don't have the warm and fuzzies, $1k buys some more implements and a few tanks of diesel. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Both are fine machines, but money is money. Have your deere person throw in a rear blade? Or a rake?

-Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

-Mike Z. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[KennedyDiesel]

The dealer makes a big difference. Around here, Deere has better support.

Just wanted to point out if you did not realize that the 7 gauge deck is much heavier/tougher than 10 gauge.

 

[OrangeGuy]

Before I purchased my Kubota L3430, I considered the smaller 7510 and comparable JD 4110. Had I purchased the smaller tractor, I would have purchased the Kubota 7510. IMO it was/is much more tractor. The Yanmar based JD 4110 just didn't seem to be as much tractor as the Kubota.

In my area, my Kubota dealer regularly has the Yanmar based JD's in his trade-in lot.

I would recommend the Kubota 7510.

OrangeGuy

 

[Cliff_Johns]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The Yanmar based JD 4110 just didn't seem to be as much tractor as the Kubota. )</font>

Hey, that's pretty good. Given that the 4110 has a number of features the 7510 doesn't have, I find this statement pretty strange. More tractor in what way? Can you be specific?

Oh, I know, you probably mean the 7510 is more tractor because you have to use a clutch. Or may because if you run out of fuel you have to reprime the system instead of just starting it back up. Maybe you think real tractors don't have independant mid and rear PTOs that can be turned on individually or together and that real tractor have 1/4 inching valves instead of that new-fangled position control stuff. Ok, I'm being sarcastic. Probably sounding a bit green, but I considered the 7610 .vs. the 4110 and found the 7610 lacking in many features, especially the ones that don't show up on the brochures.

I kind of wanted the more full featured Kubota 2410, but I decided that the 4110 was a better deal pricewise for the features I got (I didn't need the extra HP). The 7510 is a low feature, simple machine. There are advantages to that. Personally, I wanted the feature rich version, and the closest Kubota had was the 2410 and that cost too much (and I admit, it didn't feel as good to sit in a drive for me -- personal choice) and I got the JD 4110 (with the apparently dreaded Yanmar engine).

Back to the point:

I guess my view is that the price you got $15,650 for the 4110 setup is really exceptional. Very low. Probably 2K low at least. And I think the price you got for the 7510 is high. But if they are that close, I don't think there's even a contest, (even if this is the Kubota board, and I will get shot).

If you like the way the 7510 feels and/or like the dealer better, you should address the cost difference with your dealer.

Also do a search, the 7610/4110 discussion comes up a lot, though the cost difference is usually much greater, and I think that is the key issue here.

I apologise if I've dipped too deeply into the Kubota side of the board with JD vote.

Cliff

 

[LAXPatrick]

You got that price on a 4110? Hydrostatic or manual?

Nice...

Wish I could get my guy to come down a bit - I'm a little below that for a 4010 and am concerned that a little bit more power might be needed...

LAXPatrick

 

[btolle]

I don't know anythingabout the JD but I bought a B7510 about 3 months ago and have been very happy with it. While I only have 72 hours on it, it has done everything I have asked it to do and am satisifed that it was the right tractor for me.

I had a B6100 before so I was used to the treadle pedal design and didn't like the 2 pedal design on the JD I looked at.

Bill Tolle

 

[frank_f15]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I apologise if I've dipped too deeply into the Kubota side of the board with JD vote.
)</font>
CLIFF this is an open board and your well within your rights to voice your views. The man asked a question /opinion and you answered it .no person should take exception to that and if they do? tough!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jkm]

Well....ordered the 7510....BTOLLE I guess I have joined the ranks as a fan of the 7510. I am trying to develop my technique with the FEL as I am so new to using one. I got the 60 in mmm and a woods boxblade and the 302 FEL and the sleeve adapter that lets me tow my trailer...I think it is a leinbach. (very heavy duty). I noticed a few scuffs on the roll bar...does Kubota have touch up for that? How hard is it to remove the FEL or Mower...the dealer went over it and it seems easy...but he said do it on a flat surface and it would be easier?

 

[DanR67]

jkm -

Congrats on the B7510!

Removing the FEL on my B7610 takes @ 3 minutes - really! Putting it back on is where the *flat surface* part comes in - but normally this takes me only slightly longer (< 5 minutes) - it's really easy once you have done it a few times.

The MMM is a bit trickier - I have a 54" - and it still requires some twisting / manuevering. The "sticky point" is getting the front anti-scalp roller columns past the front wheel.

While definitely "perform at your own risk" - I have come up with a simple method of using the FEL to lift the front wheels a few extra inches off the ground - which makes getting the MMM deck back under / out from the tractor quite simple. That's the *worst* part of MMM installation / removal in my opinion.

Generally speaking, I can mount or remove my MMM in @ 10 minutes.

Hope that helps and happy tractoring!

Dan

 

[flenn]

Dan,

Are you swiveling the wheels 90º to slide the mower deck in and out? Also, I intend on using a floor jack to raise the wheels up for extra clearance. I just bought my tractor and have no idea how this will work but intend to mount and dismount the deck throughout the summer. What do you think?

 

[btolle]

Kubota has spray paint that is supposed to match the gray paint on the engine, roll bar, etc. It is about $8 a can but I haven't found anything else that really matches the gray very well. BTW, the Kubota gray spray paint is very thin so you have to spray very light coats or it will run pretty badly.

If you need orange touch up you can buy Dupli-Color Chevrolet Engine Orange spray paint a lot cheaper than the Kubota paint and it is pretty hard paint after it dries. I buy it at Wal Mart.

My roll bar had a few scratches on it when I got the tractor and I have since put several more on it since I am clearing a lot of woods so I haven't bothered to touch it up yet.

Congratulations on the B7510. I hope you will be a pleased with it as I am with mine. I have the bar tires (R4's) and filled the rears to 75% using 2 gallons of antifreeze and the rest water since it seldom freezes in East Texas. Seems to make a lot difference in the traction.

The FEL just takes practice. The first few hours I used the FEL on my old B7100 I would end up with about 1/4th of a bucket full at times.

One thing a friend taught me was that when trying to make precise cuts with the bucket going very, very, very slow is much better.

Have fun!

Bill Tolle

 

[jkm]

Thanks... I also got the r4 tires...with the FEL off do you notice any tearing of the grass when turning? Also, how did you fill your tires...the dealer says I could rig up a flex tube and remove the core of the valve stem to add it....I imagine that would be a nice mess.....he said he would charge me 100 to do it for me....

 

[btolle]

I bought a valve that is made for adding water to tractor tires, cost about $9. It had several fittings for the tire valve end and you hook a garden hose to the other end. It also has a air relief valve on it so you can add water and then release the air pressure evey 30 seconds or so until you get the tire filled.

I used a cheap electric drill driven pump that I bought for $8 at Lowe's to pump the anti freeze. You will need a short (18" to 36") section of garden hose to drop into the anti freeze jugs. I used a 6" section of hose I happened to already have to go from the pump to the fill valve but you could just screw the pump directly onto the adapter.

Once I had the 2 gallons of anti freeze in a tire I used the water hose to finish filling. Most water supply systems operate at 40 pounds or higher so there is plenty of pressure to fill the tire. CAUTION: If you have high water pressure be careful you don't overinflate the tire, it could blow out. I have about 90# of pressure at my house and have to be careful when doing something like this.

It took me about an hour to do both rear tires.

Don't forget to jack up the rear end so that the tires are barely off the ground before you remove the valve stems to let the air out or you might break the bead off the rim. If you keep the valve stem at the 12 O'clock position you will get 75% fill.

You can see a valve adapter like I used at Tire Adapter

That same site also has a good page of instructions at Valve Adapter Instructions

In this case, a picture really is worth a thousand words.

I have never had the FEL off and I do get some tearing of the grass if I turn sharply when the ground is damp. Going slow and making wides turns would probably prevent that. Make sure you are not in 4WD on the grass or it will dig in when you turn.

Bill Tolle

 

[garbageman]

Take off the loader while cutting the grass, you will have no problems.
RJ

 

[btolle]

garbageman, since it sounds like you have some experience with running on grass, do you know if lowering the tire pressure has any effect on how much it affects the grass?

Bill Tolle