B7800 vs. B29/B30/B32, etc.

[Jay4200]

I've been thinking about getting a smaller (B-sized) tractor, but haven't been able to even begin to pick, although I know I want 25-30HP. I've always thought Kubota did a lousy job at presenting their products - I can never tell how they compare with each other and why I would pick one over the other. But enough grousing... How does a B7800 compare with the other ~30HP B-models that were recently, and currently on the market? IOW, whats the difference.

thanks - JayC

 

[Verticaltrx]

The B2910, B7800, B3200, B3030, and B3300 (all the 4cyl B-series) are all basically the same tractor, just different sheet metal and a few more options on the premium tractors. The higher end models (B2910, B3030) have position control 3pt, telescopic 3pt, and independent PTO on some models. They all use the exact same engine, and in fact are all virtually the same power. Kubota just tweeks the rated RPM numbers a bit to make the newer models look more powerful.

The axles, transmission, engine, etc etc are all the same between the models. The newer tractors do use a stronger front stub axle that is used on the B21-B26.

The B3200/3300 does have the newer designed loader, and the loader control valve is integrated into the tractor for a cleaner/more comfortable setup. You really can't go wrong with any of these tractors. It's mostly a matter of how many features you want, performance wise they are virtually identical.

 

[magicheater]

The B2910, B7800, B3200, B3030, and B3300 (all the 4cyl B-series) are all basically the same tractor, just different sheet metal and a few more options on the premium tractors. The higher end models (B2910, B3030) have position control 3pt, telescopic 3pt, and independent PTO on some models. They all use the exact same engine, and in fact are all virtually the same power. Kubota just tweeks the rated RPM numbers a bit to make the newer models look more powerful.

The axles, transmission, engine, etc etc are all the same between the models. The newer tractors do use a stronger front stub axle that is used on the B21-B26.

The B3200/3300 does have the newer designed loader, and the loader control valve is integrated into the tractor for a cleaner/more comfortable setup. You really can't go wrong with any of these tractors. It's mostly a matter of how many features you want, performance wise they are virtually identical.

I prefer the loader on the B7800, not impressed with the new LA504.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I prefer the loader on the B7800, not impressed with the new LA504.

I thought the same thing when I first got mine, but I can tell you there is nothing wrong with the new loaders in the strength/durability department. I have used mine like a little dozer for many hours and it is holding up great. I use it in ways that would make the average TBN user cringe, from digging out 10-12" dia trees to cutting hill-side trails and excavating building sites.

 

[magicheater]

I thought the same thing when I first got mine, but I can tell you there is nothing wrong with the new loaders in the strength/durability department. I have used mine like a little dozer for many hours and it is holding up great. I use it in ways that would make the average TBN user cringe, from digging out 10-12" dia trees to cutting hill-side trails and excavating building sites.

Glad to hear a positive user report. What loader are you referring to when you say you are digging out 10-12" dia trees? Is this the LA504? :confused2:

 

[Verticaltrx]

Glad to hear a positive user report. What loader are you referring to when you say you are digging out 10-12" dia trees? Is this the LA504? :confused2:

Yup, the LA504 on my B3200. Really trees that big are hit or miss if you can get them out. If I push on them and they don't at least move a little I leave them be and cut them off with the saw. On ones that are a contender to be pushed out I do, however, work very slowly and methodically on them. Push up high and watch for where the main roots move, dig them out using the bucket/teeth to tear through the root, then start digging all the way around the tree. Periodically push on the trunk to check the condition of the tree and see where more digging/root removal is needed. Then push it over, clean the dirt off the root ball, tear the remaining roots out and push the stump/tree out of the hole. Same principles as with a track loader or dozer, just on a much small scale. :thumbsup:

I just did a 10-12" pine this way last weekend took about 20min, I'll see if I can get some pics and post them (In another thread, don't want to hijack this one any more.)