Back Blade Connection
- Thread starter o2l
- Start date
- Views: 1531
Chilly807
Elite Member
I'm getting the feeling you're new at this 
That's ok, it's easier to ask questions than deal with an unexpected problem because you didn't ask.
Best to have the parking brake applied while you do this, I usually leave the engine running if I have to adjust the lift arm height upwards.
Remove any hydraulic quick connections, it's always the first thing you remove and the last thing you connect.
I try to put some 2x6 under each end of the blade and park it in a level area. Lower the blade onto the planks, and adjust the position control until you can easily slide the top link pin out (no tension up or down). Then place a block under the front of the blade frame to hold it parallel to the ground at close to this height. Lower the frame onto the blocking, remove the lynch pins and slide the arms off, then drive away.
If you have trouble re-connecting the blade, you can adjust the lower lift arm on the right side for height via the turnbuckle. Re-set the height adjustment to level the blade once you have it attached. I usually just muscle or pry the blade into place if the height isn't perfect, it may take a little swearing to get it right. A crowbar can be your best friend.
Sean
That's ok, it's easier to ask questions than deal with an unexpected problem because you didn't ask.
Best to have the parking brake applied while you do this, I usually leave the engine running if I have to adjust the lift arm height upwards.
Remove any hydraulic quick connections, it's always the first thing you remove and the last thing you connect.
I try to put some 2x6 under each end of the blade and park it in a level area. Lower the blade onto the planks, and adjust the position control until you can easily slide the top link pin out (no tension up or down). Then place a block under the front of the blade frame to hold it parallel to the ground at close to this height. Lower the frame onto the blocking, remove the lynch pins and slide the arms off, then drive away.
If you have trouble re-connecting the blade, you can adjust the lower lift arm on the right side for height via the turnbuckle. Re-set the height adjustment to level the blade once you have it attached. I usually just muscle or pry the blade into place if the height isn't perfect, it may take a little swearing to get it right. A crowbar can be your best friend.
Sean
gwdixon
Elite Member
Chilly807 pretty much has it described. I'll give a different perspective to the same process.
>Set the blade edge flat on the ground or on a couple of short boards at the tips as Chilly mentioned. If the edge is not flat, turn the "adjustable leveling arm" in or out on the 3 point hitch (PH) until it is flat.
>Then turn the top link (top of the 3 PH) in or out until the top pin feels free and can be easily moved.
>Measure the distance to the ground from the front of the blade. Cut a 4x4" post to fit that exact distance (you will use it again and again when disconnecting or hooking up.) Put it vertically under the front of the frame to provide support and so the blade doesn't fall over nose first.
>Doubt there are any hydraulics so just pull the top pin out, unhook the lynch pins on the two lower hook-up points, slide off the lower arms to the side and you are done.
>Well, also secure the top link to the tractor so it doesn't bang around. There is usually a wire bale on the tractor for that purpose. Then drive away.
Do the same thing for all of your implements and they will be ready for a quick next hook-up.
>Set the blade edge flat on the ground or on a couple of short boards at the tips as Chilly mentioned. If the edge is not flat, turn the "adjustable leveling arm" in or out on the 3 point hitch (PH) until it is flat.
>Then turn the top link (top of the 3 PH) in or out until the top pin feels free and can be easily moved.
>Measure the distance to the ground from the front of the blade. Cut a 4x4" post to fit that exact distance (you will use it again and again when disconnecting or hooking up.) Put it vertically under the front of the frame to provide support and so the blade doesn't fall over nose first.
>Doubt there are any hydraulics so just pull the top pin out, unhook the lynch pins on the two lower hook-up points, slide off the lower arms to the side and you are done.
>Well, also secure the top link to the tractor so it doesn't bang around. There is usually a wire bale on the tractor for that purpose. Then drive away.
Do the same thing for all of your implements and they will be ready for a quick next hook-up.
PHILIP8N
Veteran Member
I have the RB15 as shown in picture. It comes with a parking stand near front to support weight at front lower connections. If you do not have stand, use cinder block or something similar. Then shorten top link until weight of blade frame makes contact with stand/block, then remove top link pin. Then remove 2 lower Ferguson quick clips, and you are good to go. Instructions above need to be added to this, but you will get the hang very quickly. Philip.
