Snow back blade for snow removal

[bill in ny]

i have skid shoes mounted on each side of my back blade. i raise the bb 1"to 2" above the ground. i try to keep the roads as clear of snow as i can. this lets them freeze up, and then the bb won't dig in anyway's.

 

[DanielTerence]

I purchased a 5 ft. KingCutter blade for my L2800 about a week ago. Used it on about 3 inches of snow on my gravel driveway (1300 ft). The only problem I need to deal with is the ruts that I can't scrape the snow out of - so they freeze and then it becomes difficult to get out of our sloped driveway. I hope to eventually fill them in with gravel and get the driveway level, then I think the blade will work great driving forward with the convex side facing forward.

 

[DonRICT]

To BrianIdaho:

I have a 3240, and have no complaint about its functioning.

However at times I reach for a little more power, or wider implement.

The pto HP is only 25, engine is 32 net. So these ratings put the tractor at the very bottom, or below the hp requirements for many uses and implements. For instance, a tiller or brush cutter, due to hp, are limited to a 60" unit, but you need a 72" unit to cover your rear tracks. Maybe the same with a snowthrower, not sure. I am not one to push my equipment.

So, I frequently wish I had gone with a 3940-price difference is @ $1500.00 more. It is just 6.5" longer and wider, and only 200 lbs heavier, and has the same turning radius. You now have the power to use a 72" implement to cover the rear wheels - or can justify for resale purposes.

The 3240, of course, is more compact and maneuverable, and fuel consumption is super. If you are still leaning towards the 3240, consider the 3540. The engine is just 11 cu bigger, and puts out 3hp more. Now your pto hp is up to a respectable 28.

Anyway, FWIW. Good luck.

 

[FlatLandr]

I find my back blade run in standard fashion (concave forward) works like a charm--as expected over blacktop, cement & downhill, as in our neighborhood. I like in swampy mid-Michigan where winters don't offer too much snow (4-6" max/fall this winter). Otherwise, it'd be inadequate for substantial fall or non-solid surfaces & defying gravity.

 

[Baby Grand]

I've had very good luck with a KK 7' blade on an L3240 with R1s. Our last storm dumped 22" and our drive is at the end of a dead end street with no culdesac, so the town plow leaves a mess for me - he can't help it and I don't take it personally. The back blade took some using to figure out what works and what doesn't.

If I have an area where I can get any speed up, I set the FEL about 6 or 8 inches off the ground and angle the plow about 40 degrees and go down & back, driving forward with the concacave side forward. In close quarters I spin the blade around to concave facing back and push in reverse. It's not an ideal set up as I have to do everything two or three times, but it's cheap and I also use the blade for light earth moving in the warmer seasons.

Future plan is to get a truck type plow and weld up a subframe to get the blade as close to the front axle as I can.

-Jim

 

[garc]

B30330 + LP2572 Works very well and on gravel too. The key is the 10" caster wheels :thumbsup: more

nd

 

[bill in ny]

 

[bill in ny]