Backhoe attachment, on a trailer. Making it a towable!

[Groo]

This is more in line what I was thinking about. I still do not see more then $3000 in it, and other than the bucket curl cylinder being too short, it is a lot more capable then my Wallenstein Log Loader Backhoe because it can go deeper. The video also shows how two wheel towable machines can be moved on their own power.

Don't get me wrong, this is no Hitachi 1200, but for the money, and ease of build, I think its a very decent machine. I think if someone spent $3000 building it, they would be happy versus that of having a spade and pick axe.

unless you can swap the outriggers with the tires, it is not tow-able. there would be negative weight on the ball.
It also appears to be in desperate need of some reinforcement around the main "'elbow" pin

 

[KYErik]

I made one several years ago from some scrap parts I had collected. Believe it or not- I never broke any welds... It worked so-so- I sold it for around $350 and ended up buying a medium sized backhoe (Case 530CK)

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/81370-towable-mini-backhoe.html?highlight=backhoe

 

[davedj1]

Maybe this will be of some use to you?
https://www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/4065.pdf
Or this?
9 HP Towable Backhoe

 

[GLyford]

unless you can swap the outriggers with the tires, it is not tow-able.

That is a regular feature on this class of machines. If you look close at the outriggers, they push sideways into a receiver-type tube. The half axles do the same, and you swap which is where for transport.

Google Image Result for http://images.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/651-65199/65162.gif

 

[Biohazarus]

Thanks everyone for your inputs...
You, well, got mostly all my concern, questioning, written out and some answered!!!
Comes down to do the math and confirm which would be the best for me.

Another question, as for counter weight, or leveraging with the smaller weight of the unit.
I thought of using some land screw fix under the carriage. That should give me more holding power while remaining a lighter unit.

 

[GLyford]

Some of the plans call for filling the long tube under with lead to give it more operating weight.

 

[bcp]

Some of the plans call for filling the long tube under with lead to give it more operating weight.

If I was building one, I wouldn't add weight to a plan's small tube. I would use a larger, thicker-walled tube.

Bruce

 

[davedj1]

Leave it hooked to the truck, that will be enough ballast.

 

[Kernopelli]

Leave it hooked to the truck, that will be enough ballast.

If you were sitting in one place that would be fine. It would be a royal pain to have to get off the hoe and reposition with the truck every time you needed to move. You are also limited to dig only where the truck could go.

 

[TMGT]

Have the outriggers sweep towards the back as far as practical and mount the engine and hydraulic resivoir on the tongue, should be plenty of counterweight as long as you match the hyd power to the weight.

I built a backhoe for my Kubota B and it's about right for the weight, I can still pick front off the ground if I catch a large root, if I had swept the outriggers to the rear a little it would have added a lot of stability. Wasn't practical though as it would have interfered with the boom.

It could have easily been attached to a trailer.