Backhoe Bucket Tooth Wear

[bindian]

Brandi, I thought about going with 5 dual-teeth, but since the configuration when I bought the TLB was two on the outside and 3 singles, I decided to first try just the dual in the middle and leave two singles. I bought lots of teeth, so I can configure the bucket anyway I want the next time the teeth need replacing based on how I think this works out.

I'm not sure what you mean about the thumb. It seems to me the thumb would work just fine with these teeth. I don't think you have to worry about breaking off a tooth because the teeth are pretty darn strong. I haven't found any roots that these teeth have any problem with either. Of course, if the roots are big enough, they are going to stall the backhoe anyhow, but for normal small roots, this thing is a beast. My backhoe is 92 hp and there isn't much that wins the battle with it.

My bucket is 24" wide, but has 5 teeth. I can see from your pictures that your 24" bucket with only 4 teeth sure has a lot of room between teeth. Because the dual tiger teeth are slightly spread, they would benefit your bucket's digging by covering a wider space, but with intense pressure at the points. I think they will work well.

Finally, I do see a little wear on your teeth, but I think others would agree with me that even your 24" bucket's tooth wear is minimum. If you go to the tiger teeth, hang on to your others because I believe I'd prefer that type of tooth for digging in soft dirt. I even bought some to put on my bucket for a test run to see how they work. There is nothing wrong with the flat tooth for every day digging.

Jim,
When my bucket curls into the stowed position, the two inner teeth clear the thumb by about an 1/2 inch. Make that 3/8 inch with the slop in everything.

I called Romac parts and emailed them my Brandco part numbers today and also sent photos. They are checking to see if the part numbers will cross reference. I may have to take a tooth off and measure the shank.

My Mahinda dealer wants $20.30 for each "stock" tooth and $8.39 for each roll pin.:ashamed: Since reading your post, and seeing you have 5 teeth compared to my 4 teeth on our 24 inch buckets, I am going to check out moving two teeth and installing a 5th tooth.

In hard packed clay, the gaps between the teeth cause a little frustation in digging full buckets at a reasonable pace. This is what is slowing me down, not so much my rounded shoulder teeth.

I want to change it to either to 5 teeth with some or all dual tigers, or install 4 dual tiger teeth and grind down the tiger tooth side that doesn't clear the thumb enough.

Thanks for the input and web address.:thumbsup:
hugs, Brandi

 

[jinman]

I called Romac parts and emailed them my Brandco part numbers today and also sent photos. They are checking to see if the part numbers will cross reference. I may have to take a tooth off and measure the shank.

My Mahinda dealer wants $20.30 for each "stock" tooth and $8.39 for each roll pin.:ashamed: Since reading your post, and seeing you have 5 teeth compared to my 4 teeth on our 24 inch buckets, I am going to check out moving two teeth and installing a 5th tooth.

Brandi, it sounds like you have a plan going. I'm not sure, but I think if you can remove a tooth and take measurments on the stub, that would be good too. It's just a real pain when you have them attached with rollpins. At least your rollpins are vertical instead of horizontal and you don't have to drive them out side-to-side. I look at them and think how easy it would be to fabricate a roll pin insertion/removal tool that looks like a fork on the bottom with a screw like a C-clamp on top. Somebody must have one of those on the market somewhere.

Also, one of the TBN advertisers with a long history of being helpful is Everything Attachments. They sell Bradco hoes and buckets. I did not see any teeth on their website, but you might shoot them an email or call and see what they have to offer.

 

[bindian]

Brandi, it sounds like you have a plan going. I'm not sure, but I think if you can remove a tooth and take measurments on the stub, that would be good too. It's just a real pain when you have them attached with rollpins. At least your rollpins are vertical instead of horizontal and you don't have to drive them out side-to-side. I look at them and think how easy it would be to fabricate a roll pin insertion/removal tool that looks like a fork on the bottom with a screw like a C-clamp on top. Somebody must have one of those on the market somewhere.

Also, one of the TBN advertisers with a long history of being helpful is Everything Attachments. They sell Bradco hoes and buckets. I did not see any teeth on their website, but you might shoot them an email or call and see what they have to offer.

Jim,
I am convinced if I got OEM, it will cost a bunch. Bradco is known for being "pricey".
I have modified a C-clamp like you describe.:thumbsup: It is in my tool box at the hangar for frozen roller bearings on the sides of Boeing 737 cargo doors.

A C-clamp of sufficient size with sockets on each side of the roll pin will work. The "pusher" socket is the just a tad smaller than the roll pin and the "catcher" socket is bigger then the roll pin. The C-clamp pushes the pusher socket into the roll pin, which exits into the catcher socket.

It would be nice on yours if all the tooth shank holes lined up. That way, with long punches or socket extensions, it would be a snap to hammer out all your curvy bolts. :laughing:
hugs, Brandi

 

[Jbrink64]

Jinman, I use a pin master tool for getting the pins ( or bolts) out.

http://www.pinmaster.com/item.asp?iid=250

 

[SPYDERLK]

Other than on Jinmans, what is the problem just using a hammer and punch on the pins. If theres access I think that would be most convenient.
larry

 

[bindian]

Jinman, I use a pin master tool for getting the pins ( or bolts) out.

Home PIN MASTER Pinmaster Davom

I know that will work. We use something like that at work with a rivet gun (fancy air hammer) to knock out cargo door stop fittings.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Other than on Jinmans, what is the problem just using a hammer and punch on the pins. If theres access I think that would be most convenient.
larry

Hammers and punches are great when there is room.

However, when space doesn't allow swinging a hammer or you need a third hand to back up the part you are trying to get a frozen pin or bolt out of, the C clamp trick works great. It also works great for pressing bushings and bearings in or out.

Sometimes, hammering will be too much for a fragile part or casting that can crack from a hammer whacking it. Having backup concentrates the impact on the pin and not on the part. I am talking in general and not specifically on bucket teeth removal. Whack away on the teeth.:laughing::laughing:

hugs, Brandi

 

[jinman]

Jinman, I use a pin master tool for getting the pins ( or bolts) out.

Home PIN MASTER Pinmaster Davom

I looked at one of those when looking for teeth, and it prompted me to talk about not having installation instructions for teeth in the operator or service manuals. I know how that tool works for both insertion and removal, but I swear I do not think that split pin shown in use on the tool will work on my backhoe teeth. The darn pin would not extend out on each side of the stub and the tooth would just fall off. If I have room, I can deal with nuts and bolts alot better than a high-tech split pin.:confused2:

 

[Bob Rooks]

What is a good source for Tiger Teeth?

 

[jinman]

What is a good source for Tiger Teeth?

I like Romac. They are cheaper than other places and seem to have good service and quick delivery of parts with standard shipping.