GAFAQ_33
New member
There very first thing to think about is safety. During the installation of the hoe on the tractor, there are forces present that can maime, crush, and even kill. Consider where the pinch point and / or crush zones are and keep hands, feet, legs, and arms clear. Enough said on that; just think and work safely
I think the first thing to think about is being on a Level surface. I had mine off for most last winter; blocked up and covered up. Had outrigger strapped up to keep them from leaking down. It took me a little longer than usual because I hadn't done it in a while.
My hoe has its' own hydrualic pump. By backing up to the hoe you can hook up the pump to the PTO and use hoe's own hydraulics to raise / lower / move hoe. I move tractor to where it's pretty close to attaching to the hoe.
In my case, I keep RPMs low while using PTO driven pump pressure to adjust position of hoe. The reason for this is that you only want to move hoe very small distances at any one time. If you use to many RPMs, you'll be jerking the hoe around and end up breaking or bending something.
Using the outriggers to raise and / or lower the hoe and the dipper stick to move side to side and fore and aft (excuse the naval terms), very carefully move hoe close to the attaching points. This takes some practice. You kind of have to think backwards. Take your time and move the hoe in very small increments. You'll get better as you go along. Just when you think you have it all figured out, you'll move it the wrong way.
On mine I attach the two lower points first. Once I have these two points slid into position and pinned, I take the weight off of the hoe by the raising of the dipper stick and outriggers. Using the hoe's own weight, the hoe will lower on the stick end and raise on the sub frame end. This should put sub frame end in position to install long pin. Once this is done, install the top link.
I use a long (about six feet) steel bar to lever the hoe around sometimes. You normally can't move the hoe very far using this method; but, sometimes a fraction of inch here or there is all that's needed.
Good luck and work safe.
I think the first thing to think about is being on a Level surface. I had mine off for most last winter; blocked up and covered up. Had outrigger strapped up to keep them from leaking down. It took me a little longer than usual because I hadn't done it in a while.
My hoe has its' own hydrualic pump. By backing up to the hoe you can hook up the pump to the PTO and use hoe's own hydraulics to raise / lower / move hoe. I move tractor to where it's pretty close to attaching to the hoe.
In my case, I keep RPMs low while using PTO driven pump pressure to adjust position of hoe. The reason for this is that you only want to move hoe very small distances at any one time. If you use to many RPMs, you'll be jerking the hoe around and end up breaking or bending something.
Using the outriggers to raise and / or lower the hoe and the dipper stick to move side to side and fore and aft (excuse the naval terms), very carefully move hoe close to the attaching points. This takes some practice. You kind of have to think backwards. Take your time and move the hoe in very small increments. You'll get better as you go along. Just when you think you have it all figured out, you'll move it the wrong way.
On mine I attach the two lower points first. Once I have these two points slid into position and pinned, I take the weight off of the hoe by the raising of the dipper stick and outriggers. Using the hoe's own weight, the hoe will lower on the stick end and raise on the sub frame end. This should put sub frame end in position to install long pin. Once this is done, install the top link.
I use a long (about six feet) steel bar to lever the hoe around sometimes. You normally can't move the hoe very far using this method; but, sometimes a fraction of inch here or there is all that's needed.
Good luck and work safe.
