Backhoe Stabilizers, How To

   / Backhoe Stabilizers, How To #11  
I was watching an Air Force training video on backhoe ops (what can I say, it's an exciting life i know!) and they made a point of using the stabilizers to lift the back tires completely clear of the ground. The reason they gave was "it saves the tires and suspension". Can't argue that. If they aren't touching anything there isn't going to be any wear.
My manual makes a point of saying to leave the tires on the ground for "added stability". Can't argue that either. The more that is in contact with the ground the better the stability.
What say you? Tires on the ground or off?

It depends on the situation, but there's no way a military training manual is going to say that.
 
   / Backhoe Stabilizers, How To
  • Thread Starter
#12  
"It depends on the situation, but there's no way a military training manual is going to say that."
Thanks for adding so much insight and value to the discussion. And congrats on your close, analytical reading of my original post which stated "training video" and not manual.
 
   / Backhoe Stabilizers, How To #13  
The B21 operators manual says to leave one or both rear tires slightly in contact. The reasons stated, to keep center of gravity low, add to stability, and spread digging forces onto more of the machine instead of just the backhoe frame.
 
   / Backhoe Stabilizers, How To #14  
Dont get enough weight on the outriggers, and the backhoe will drag the machine around easier. One way to ensure you have all the weight you can on the outriggers, is to get all the weight off the tires:thumbsup:
I agree with ya, but I seen a construction guy with the stabs all the way down, going up a hill an pull his deere on purpose up the hill dragging the whole tractor up the hill, stabs still on the ground. So even with the stabs down you can still drag your tractor around if you want to.
 
   / Backhoe Stabilizers, How To #15  
Fully lowering the stabilizers decreases max digging depth, raises the COG, narrows the stance of the machine and destabilizes it as compared to simply taking most or just barely all the weight off the tires. Having the rear wheels a foot or more off the ground is counterproductive unless one is leveling the machine.
 
   / Backhoe Stabilizers, How To #16  
Fully lowering the stabilizers decreases max digging depth, raises the COG, narrows the stance of the machine and destabilizes it as compared to simply taking most or just barely all the weight off the tires. Having the rear wheels a foot or more off the ground is counterproductive unless one is leveling the machine.

Agreed.

But didnt see anyone here saying that either.

You want all the machine weight on the pads, none on the tires. But that also doesnt mean all the way up.

Along the same lines with digging, the harder you boom down, the more weight you are taking off the pads and the easier it is to throw the machine around. So got to be mindful of that, and try to do the bulk of the digging with the bucket and dipper.

No matter how big or how small the machine is, or how powerful or how weak it is, and inexperienced operator can jerk and throw and pull a machine around like crazy and make it look like it has tons of power.....but in reality, its just bad operator skills.
 
   / Backhoe Stabilizers, How To #17  
When setting up my B26, the first thing I do is tilt the FEL bucket so the blade is vertical, then lower it to raise the front wheels off the ground a bit, then I lower the stabilizers so the tractor is level left to right. This may mean that one side has the stabs completely extended while the other side is just barely loaded. I try to keep the front to rear essentially level by adjusting the FEL up or down. By putting the FEL blade vertical and pushing it into the ground it keeps the tractor from being pulled backward. I also welded some 1" tall x 3/8" thick plate to 3 sides of each stabilizer pad. This works pretty good to keep the tractor in place. With the factory flat plates it slide all over the place.
 
   / Backhoe Stabilizers, How To #18  
When setting up my B26, the first thing I do is tilt the FEL bucket so the blade is vertical, then lower it to raise the front wheels off the ground a bit, then I lower the stabilizers so the tractor is level left to right. This may mean that one side has the stabs completely extended while the other side is just barely loaded. I try to keep the front to rear essentially level by adjusting the FEL up or down. By putting the FEL blade vertical and pushing it into the ground it keeps the tractor from being pulled backward. I also welded some 1" tall x 3/8" thick plate to 3 sides of each stabilizer pad. This works pretty good to keep the tractor in place. With the factory flat plates it slide all over the place.

Thats great for digging a hole or digging out stumps. But when trenching its pretty common-practice to push yourself forward with the hoe for efficiency.
 
   / Backhoe Stabilizers, How To #19  
I never leave the tires on the ground on my 580K. The simple fact is that the stabilizers are steel while the tires are rubber. Rubber flexes while the steel is solid. Secondly the stabilizers will sink into the ground some as you work. If your tires are touching the ground they will get more and more weight transferred to them. You can even mask the problem of soft ground until you swing the backhoe to the side while working with a load and having the stabilizer sink in. If you like bouncing around then by all means leave your tires on the ground.

The idea that it raises the center of gravity making it less stable is completely wrong. Yes your center of gravity is raised some but the footprint is increased. The stabilizers a further back and much wider than the tires. In fact you should be curling your bucket down and the putting that on the ground to raise your front tires off the ground too. Remember that tractors have a front axle that pivots. With the front bucket down you turn a foot print that's the shape of a triangle to a much larger square and more stable square. So while you may have raised the CoG by 6" you've also added several feet in width and a foot or to in length at the rear which more than offsets the higher CoG.

The exception is a CUT with loaded tires. In that case, because of the extra weight, leaving them touching the ground will reduce stress. However, as I said, you need to pay more attention to the stabilizers sinking into the ground.
 
   / Backhoe Stabilizers, How To #20  
Difference is probably in what you are calling a "backhoe". An actual construction backhoe like a JD 310 or Case 580, it's a good practice to "ground" the machine with the bucket and stabilizers leaving all 4 tires slightly off the ground. Something much lighter like a compact tractor with BH attachment - I have no idea since never used one of those, but could see where just loading the stabilizers and bucket with a lot of weight but not actually getting off the ground might make it less prone to get drug around by the hoe. But on a construction backhoe, you will feel the difference curling front bucket, digging lip in, and raising all 4 tires a couple inches vs just dropping bucket and stabilizers to ground. Machine will move/bounce much less and just stay planted
Exactly! :thumbsup:

Too many people here are confusing tractor mounted back hoes with industrial construction machines. Entirely two different categories of machines. Even mobile construction cranes are lifted completely off the ground by the hydraulic cylinders on their outriggers.
 

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