Backhoe Backhoe Techniques Question

[trlong]

IMO, lifting the rear wheels off the ground is not a great idea for those with limited experience and CUT's. I've experienced the save dragging problem, numerous times. Almost always, I was biting off more than I could chew and/or using the wrong technique.

I have removed more old apple tree stumps aroung here than I can count. Amazing how tough they can be, even those I thought were fairly small trees. The roots seem to go on forever. So, I've found that if I clear away what soil I can, without trying to yank a root, I can use one or more of the BH bucket teeth to tear the root apart, a little at a time (saves my chainsaw, bigtime). Once I have all the surrounding roots "broken", I can usually tip the stump enough, by reaching over and curling, to get access to the taproot. It's a bit tedious but no where near as tedious as a pick-axe, shovel, and chainsaw.

The more I use the BH, the better I get at it. Sunday I was not working with it very cleanly, or efficiently. I hadn't used it since early this spring and it took some time to get my brain out of the way and let my hands remember how to do it smoothly. Kind of like not playing the piano for a long time.

Tom

 

[nasdaqsam]

As all of have said to this point. It is basically seat time.

The hydraulics can pull more than the weight of the tractor and stopping power of the stabilizers, bucket and brakes can with stand. Which is good and bad, Good because if not it would be severely under powered and basically useless. Bad because it can cause dangerous situations if not prepared.

Small bites and leverage works best. Curl the bucket under what you want to break free then lift it. If digging very hard packed dirt, scratch at it to break it up, then dig and pick.

Part of the problem is we see excavators and larger backhoes just rip and tear away at whatever they come up against. It's very satisfying to pull a full bucket out of the ground but truth be told that does not happen often with smaller machines.

It's all technique. Half the fun is learning. Just be safe.

Good Luck

 

[HomeBrew2]

Excellent to hear from a pro, always. Appreciate your comments and experience. We amateurs never recommend pros try any of our stunts either ... just out of general courtesy ... we only need to live thru the day, not make a living at it
Cheers!

 

[tlbuser]

Isn't the difference between a pro and an amteur ( no matter what occupation) the survivabilty rate? Everyone makes mistakes, the smart guys don't make the same ones twice. For the record, I dropped to the semi-pro league after 25 years. Once I got my masters in civil engineering, they decided I should to spend more time in the office /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Every once in a while, I sneak out to the field, especially on the nice spring and autumn days /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[tlbuser]

And you thought that was relevant to my post because....... why?
I even said, <font color="blue"> They all have little quirks which make them a little bit different. </font> So, why would you and JerryG be offended by my answer???

 

[PineRidge]

Tlbuser sometimes it's hard to tell by a post alone the intent or tone of the remark. MY response was not one of sarcasm it was only meant to inform other members. I'm sure that Jerry feels the same way that I do.

We are ALL here to learn and exchange ideas. I made no comments that were untrue, and you shouldn't be offended as a result of my post.

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue"> So, why would you and JerryG be offended by my answer???</font>
What? Where did that come from? I didn't even see anything to be offended at.

 

[tlbuser]

You're right. I shouldn't have misread what you wrote, but I did and I apologize.

 

[tlbuser]

I took what pineridge wrote, read it to be something it wasn't and then THOUGHT that you were piling on with a me too thing. My mistake, I apologize.
Some of us (me anyway) shouldn't be allowed to read, type and drink coffee at the same time. Disastrous results may ensue.

 

[JimMorrissey]

That's a good technique.....an easy to place large rock works best so you don't have soil or other loose material spilling all over the place as the machine gets moved around. I used to do that with my BX. Definitely made a significant difference when using a scraper or a rake on the 3pt hitch.

What kind of pad stabilizers are on your hoe? Do they have cleats that can really dig into the ground....If not, maybe some inexpensive pressure treated soutern pine or white oak could be bolted to the pads to give you a few inches of ridges that'll help cut into the soil and hold her from dragging. The L39 has perpendicular steel plates that cut into the ground and do a real good job of holding the machine.