bad block ym 240D

justanotherjoe · Nov 27, 2005

My block has a small crack behind the starter. It has been that way since I bought it a thousand hours ago. The small leak doesn't bother me, but I doubt that I could sell it with the 2-cylinder "Yammer Hammer" noise and the leak. For harmony at home, I need to sell the tractor if I buy another, and I found a skid-steer with a small backhoe and trailer that I want.

My question is: Does anyone else have a cracked block, but the tractor just keeps on going, and going?

FleetMan · Nov 27, 2005

Put some BARS Leak in the cooling system. I've seen that stuff work wonders on cracked heads and blocks.

Soundguy · Nov 28, 2005

I've seen dozens of tractors.. from fords to Massey harris with cracks in non-critical parts of the block. Some fill them with soft metal.. like lead, silver solder, or brass... some roll the dice and try to weld them with a nickel rod ( A good machinist and/or experienced welder -can- do this.. but it's hard to find either.. if you walk into the shop and no one is over 50.. then walk out /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.. )

My vote is for running some brass on it.

Completely drain block to stop watrer seepage.. vcut it, and clean al the paint off the surface.. might drill a stop hole if you see the end of the crack.. then run some brass in there...

Probably never have a problem with it again.

I've seen a IH-A engine that had more brass on the block that probably cast iron. Owner said it had been that way when he bought it xx years ago...

Soundguy

Cord · Nov 28, 2005

The method they used to use on flat head fords was to use plugs. They would start at the very end of the crack, drill and tap the hole for a tapered plug. These are longer than a standard 1/4" pipe pipe plug. The holes are drilled next to each other and the plugs are inserted. The plugs are ground flush. Then another set of holes are drilled in between the existing plugs so there is a continuous row of plugs over lapping each other. As you have noticed, the only complaint is water seepage, so this is a viable repair.

HGM · Nov 28, 2005

The pipe plug thing was also used to repair a small amount of 7.3L coolant leaks. Thread locker or JB Weld works to seal it.

I have heard of some old tractors that had a cracked block from front to back, nearly 2peices. The repair was made by drilling a hole in between the cylinders and using all thread rod to squeeze the block back together. I'm not sure of the sealing properties, but they claimed it worked.

pruntyc · Nov 28, 2005

I have to go along with the Bars leak, as I have seen it even seal freeze plugs, that were leaking. I'm not sure about the brass, as there is a cast rod, that works real good. I welded block in my son-in-laws boat, one time. It never did leak again, it was on the side, about 4 inches long, he let it freeze. Of course, I'm 72, so I guess like you said, over 50, lol. If one uses the cast rod, you have to weld very little, then let it cool, then a little more, till you are done. If you let it get very hot the crack will just keep on going, and going and going, like the Eveready battery rabbit. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

bruce1966us · Nov 28, 2005

I would think you could get someone to tig weld the block. Should work great.

Soundguy · Nov 29, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm not sure about the brass )</font>

I've seen tons of cast repaired with brass.. probably the safest.. easiest way.. It doesn't heat up like a weld to keep cracking.. and the brass is nice and sticky and seals against the cast iron well.. silver solder will work in a water retaining area as well.

That stitching technique that was mentioned earlier will work.. I've seen repairs with it.. but it's fairly labor intensive..

Soundguy