Bad Sunday

/ Bad Sunday #1  

forgeblast

Elite Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2005
Messages
4,127
Location
nicholson, pa
Tractor
John Deer 318
Oh Boy where do I begin.
Lt160 deere. (16hp kohler)
I was cutting the grass and noticed the engine shifted (yes moved). What happened was two of the engine bolts worked free. This caused
1. the muffler pipe to break off then
2. the drive belt began wearing of the drive belt you could smell it.
I got the tractor back to the barn and went to move/shift the motor and snapped off the oil drain tube. Luckily I had a bucket outside and caught the oil.
I ordered the parts to fix it all, but how do i get the broken part of the oil tube out of the motor.

The tube is threaded in there, I am guessing something that expands and then I can unscrew the part inside it but I cannot find the name/type of the tool.
Any help tricks hints would be appreciated.
 
/ Bad Sunday #3  
Is it broken "flush" or do you still have some meat to grab onto.
 
/ Bad Sunday #5  
I keep a set of E Z outs up to about 1/2" diameter just to remove broken bolts. A threaded pipe should be a cinch to remove (no drilling ). While getting your EZ out for pipe, look for a set for bolt removal and perhaps some left hand drill bits for those broken bolts in the engine (just in case they are snapped off also)
 
/ Bad Sunday #6  
I wonder if putting something 'tapered" like a round chisel in it etc, force it in snug,
apply some wd40 etc and try turning it out.
How big is the hole.
 
/ Bad Sunday #7  
Working irrigation, we use something like this to remove broken pipe or stuck pipe.

It is aluminum, but you might be able to make something like it from steel.

A tapered bit of metal with grooves cut in it.
 

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/ Bad Sunday #9  
I wonder if putting something 'tapered" like a round chisel in it etc, force it in snug,
apply some wd40 etc and try turning it out.
How big is the hole.

Agree....but I recommend a 50/50 solution of acetone and automatic trans fluid......best thing around for old rusty bolts.....use it all the time....good luck!
 
/ Bad Sunday #10  
Oh Boy where do I begin.
Lt160 deere. (16hp kohler)
I was cutting the grass and noticed the engine shifted (yes moved). What happened was two of the engine bolts worked free. This caused
1. the muffler pipe to break off then
2. the drive belt began wearing of the drive belt you could smell it.
I got the tractor back to the barn and went to move/shift the motor and snapped off the oil drain tube. Luckily I had a bucket outside and caught the oil.
I ordered the parts to fix it all, but how do i get the broken part of the oil tube out of the motor.

The tube is threaded in there, I am guessing something that expands and then I can unscrew the part inside it but I cannot find the name/type of the tool.
Any help tricks hints would be appreciated.
You didn't say what size it is, but an Internal pipe wrench should work.
41RI9qPJyeL._SX300_.jpg8970.jpg

https://www.google.com/search?q=internal+pipe+wrench&hl=en&biw=1275&bih=799&site=imghp&tbm=shop&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=7Fk9VPbNMMLn8gHv8YHwAQ&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&dpr=1.1#hl=en&tbm=shop&q=internal+pipe+wrench+set
 
/ Bad Sunday #11  
Try a VERY large screwdriver. Tap it into the broken off piece and use a wrench on the driver flat.
OR, the tapered end of a file, same Technic.
Work it both ways at first to loosen then unscrew.
 
/ Bad Sunday #12  
you want the internal pipe wrench , E Z outs will expand the pipe and may make it very difficult to remove,

the best type of internal pipe wrench I have found is the one with three tabs that expand internally and grip the pipe that way, Proto makes them, the one with the ring that revolves works too, but not as strong,
 
/ Bad Sunday
  • Thread Starter
#13  
1/2'' id. Thank you ace has the stud wrench, which is 1/2 and 3/4, I will look at the internal pipe wrenchs too. Thanks!!
 
/ Bad Sunday #14  
If you broke it off it means it's one of the plastic pipes with the twist lock cap on the end. Being plastic threads they won't be a problem getting out. A pair of scissors of adequate size tapped in there with a hammer should do it. I'd only use one of the blades.

When replacing with metal pipe and pipe cap, teflon tape on the threads, get the pipe long enough so that you can put your oil drain pan under the "spiggot" and forgo the usual mess.

Mark
 
/ Bad Sunday
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Its that cheap white metal.
Texasmark I saw people do that after I ordered the parts. I have a bucket that catches it all. Appreciate it.
 
/ Bad Sunday
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I bought the internal pipe wrenches. I had to use a step bit to drill out the tube a bit but once that was out the internal pipe wrench worked like a charm. Now its just replacing parts....the weather is getting cold and I hope to cut the grass one last time. Thank you all for your help.
 
/ Bad Sunday #17  
I had a neighbor who had the pipe break, when he was changing the oil. He's not particularly handy, and was apparently tightening, rather than loosening. I used an EZ out, I think it was a #5 or #6 (I have collected some rather big ones), and walked it right out. I used some brake cleaner to get the oil off, so that the tool would "bite" better. I have some large sized IRWIN pipe equivalents, but have never tried them. They have six point heads, and sockets work with them.

Also, you could use a hacksaw blade or a jugsaw blade to partially cut through the pipe, and give you a better grove to fit a slotted screwdriver into.
 

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