Tires balast in tires

[W5FL]

Bird, I guess that was before you learned about owl poop? I wouldn't recommend running in 4WD on pavement even with owl poop in the front axle. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[MChalkley]

Yeah, Andy, to get that price, I'd have to drive to someplace in MD to get it. The two hour or so drive would be easily worth it, though, to save that kind of freight.

Mark

 

[MChalkley]

I keep my front tires ballasted to 50%, though I intend to use weights instead when I can get around to it.

I run owl poop in the front end of my tractor, but with or without it, I wouldn't run in 4wd on pavement (unless it was covered with ice), with or without ballast in the front tires.

Mark

 

[gordon]

Andy thanks for the great info---that is a definite winter project. Once again you did a nice looking job. Nothing better to me than a homemade job that looks like store bought if you know what I mean. I love building and fabricating stuff. Thats one reason I enjoy my daytime job for the challenge of a job and the satisfaction when completed.
Gordon

 

[gordon]

Mark if you do come across the name please let me have it. I'm in Delaware so alot of places in MD. aren't to far away for me to drive.
I will also have to check local for price as well and work on the dimensions that I will need. Thanks
Gordon

 

[W5FL]

I came across a quote for bolt on wheel weights fabricated for Kubota tractors in the local Dallas/Ft. Worth area. 214# for $130. I assume that that is a pair of weights and that you can put up to three sets on many tractors.

 

[fgable]

What are the opinions of a 55 gal drum (cut in half) filled with concrete connected to the 3 point hitch? My L245dt seems awfully lite in the back and I have seen this done on other tractors

 

[W5FL]

It will work fine. There is a website referenced here (search ballast) describing in detail doing this. Most of us just keep a short implement on the rear such as a tiller or heavy boxblade that you can use at the same time as the loader and kill two birds at once. I can till up a patch and then scoop it up. With the box blade, drop the scarfiers and loosen it up then pick it up with the loader. The weight on the 3 point is better than the weight on the wheels. That said, if you are trying to pick up 2200# with the loader, you may still be a little light with a pretty good sized weight on the rear. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

Like Wen said, you can probably find a site that describes doing just that, but I've forgotten where it was. Basically, it was to put a steel rod through the barrel before filling it with concrete with the rod the proper diameter and length to fit into the lower links on your 3-point, and of course, you can put another steel rod or bar in the top to connect to the top link if you want. But I just do like Wen; have either the box blade or tiller on the 3-point when using the loader.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Before I made the wheel weights, I made a concrete weight for the three point. You can see pictures and a description of how I made it at:

http://www.his.com/~msimpson/tractor/hacker/trweight.htm

This size works well for B-series tractors, you could scale up the size for larger tractors. Hope this helps.

Andy

 

[Chris in IN]

Mike I the same problem trying to decide how to ballast the back of my tractor. I first had decided to put fluid in the tires, but everyone I asked about it said not to do it. This was farmers, dealer, tire dealers no one advised doing it. Also the property we own was formly owned by a builder who scattered nails everywhere. I already have gotten 3 in my tractor tires. So I went to the local farm machinery scrap yard and found 4 old wheel weights. The hole pattern was perfect. They weighed a total of 490 lbs & cost $125.00. They also have 100 lb suitcase weights for $50.00 each. I am also going to get a 3 pt suitcase weight bracket from New Holland at a cost of $83.00. I was lucky to remember that my brother had an old abandoned MF combine that still had 5 100 lb suitcase weights still on it. He was kind enough to let me use them at no cost. So between the wheel weights, suitcase weights or an implement on the rear I am within the ballast range the manual says is required for loader work. Chris

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Two weeks ago I took the same approach as Name Taken (Mike Simpson). I have 24 inch wheels so, I used 50 lb. weights. They measured 18" by 1.75". I put four on each side. They work great. I can now bushhog going across slopes, that before I would only go up and down on. The weights cost me 76 cents a pound at Wal-Mart. The weights and the brackets all together ran me about $350. I just didn't want the problems that you can have with ballast in tires. JerryG

 

[fiddler kelly]

Can someone post some pics of the weights on their tractors. I had calicum placed in my tires on the purchase date . I am not sure if my tires are tubless or not I will have to look on the side of tires to see. If they are not I may consider emptying them out because most of the time I have my backhoe on the machine anyway and come the winter when I plan on taking the bh of I will make up weights to go on the back of the tractor on the 3 point hitch system for ballast.

 

[Erik Graham]

Greetings;

I have a '53 Jubilee with filled rear tires. The previous owner(s) did that and I have no idea how long ago. Two things can arise using the calcium chloride of yesteryear. If you develope a small leak there is a good possibility that that your rims will rust out from underneath you. I am going to have to drain mine and have no idea on how to dispose of the fill.

Secondly, a gallon of water weighs about 10 lbs, so a filled tire becomes pretty heavy pretty quick. A full sized rear tire with rubber,rim and fill can weigh in the 500 lb range which makes them potentially pretty dangerous when they are not tethered to the tractor. With removable weights there is an arguable edge in the safety department.

Cheers, Erik