Snowblower Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long)

   / Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long) #1  

MadDog

Platinum Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2004
Messages
522
Location
Wrentham,Massachusetts
Tractor
Kubota B7800
This fall I sold my Honda 928TA (pretty much the king of the walk-behinds) and bought a Pronovost Puma-64 for the 3ph.

Well, I had just finished setting up the chute and deflector hydraulics and put a set of new chains on the rear wheels last weekend, so yesterday's mini-blizzard in Eastern Mass couldn't have come at a better time.

We had snow that changed to drizzle for about an hour and then changed back to snow with a vengeance. By the time I got home from work, we probably had about 8" on the ground, although it was pretty hard to tell since the wind was gusting to 50mph+ and even the wet and heavy snow had drifted.

This was my first use of the Puma and it's mighty burley compared to even a first rate walk behind like the track-wheeled Honda.

Of course, the 64" cut makes it fast compared to any walk behind. I did my driveway and front walk, 2d driveway to the barn, some space in the back for the dogs to play in, and the driveways of 9 neighbors on my street and then eliminated the mountain of compacted snow the town plow always leaves at the end of the cul-de-sac; all in about 2 hours. The driveways averaged about 5 minutes per and when I get more skillful at adjusting blower height on the move to take account of road crown and uphill driveways, it will be faster.

The most impressive difference, though is power. My B7800 has 22 pto hp and that, pushed by a 3000# machine with R4s and chains, enabled me to just cut right through the plow-compacted stuff. The piles at the end of the street were about 5' high so I pushed everything higher than about 2 1/2' back with the FEL and then backed into it with the Puma, which just chewed right through it like a chainsaw going through white pine. Moreover, the 4 impeller blades just hurl it out without clogging or even slowing.

The Puma only set me back about $500 beyond what I sold the Honda for (it sold 2 days after I advertized it, with two buyers eventually bidding it up to $100 more than I paid for it 3 years ago) and, even without considering that I now have one less engine to maintain, the change is a great improvement.

Many thanks to MadRef for his many helpful snowblower posts and also for much-needed insights on the hydraulic setup. At present, I'm using the remotes and joystick that run my top-n-tilt in the summer, but I think that I have power beyond on the valve and I'll add on in the spring.

One operating tip; you definitely want to run pto snowblowers at full 540rpm rear pto speed for two reasons. (1) That maxs the impeller blades' velocity, which is what gives you distance when you want it. (2) The auger is geared way down so at less than 540, the augers would draw the snow into the impellers so slowly that you'd just be able to inch along. In compacted material at max cut height (24") you kinda have to take it easy on the speed anyway.

BTW, unless you are running one of these on large acreage where it doesn't matter where you throw the snow or how far it goes (and maybe even then if you need to change direction and/or distance because of gusty winds) the hydraulic chute rotation and deflection are well worth the added cost.

Next snowstorm, I'll get some pictures; I was too busy havin' fun to take out the camera yesterday.
 
   / Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long) #2  
We had 14" up here and mine went thru the stuff like a hot knife thru butter. You really need the hydraulic top link to allow for adjustments of the cutting angle of attack. It makes doing gravel driveways a snap.

BTW, keep an eye on the chain. It will stretch anywhere from 1/2 to a full link after only a few hours. I ran out of adjustment before the first season ended and added a 1/2 link then nothing since.

Have fun.
 
   / Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long) #3  
This storm was my 64" Puma's second outing this year. I got to try it for the first time on Thanksgiving day when we got a 6" snowfall. Took me no time at all to clean the drive. This last storm was even more fun with a full foot or so to let 'er rip into. No problem at all!
I bought mine with the only the hydraulic chute rotation and now I'm wishing I would have done the deflector too.
What size cylinder do you have on you deflector? Looks like it should be about a 1 1/2" or 2" with about a 4" stroke.
I've also considered adding a piece of slit plastic tubing over the cutting edge to help keep it from picking up gravel. Anyone tried this? If the ground would stay frozen this wouldn't be such a big deal but it doesn't. However the Puma's still does great, throws the gravel just as far as the snow! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long) #4  
A 2" x 4" x 1.125" tie rod cylinder with a 14.25" retracted length is a perfect fit. Just remove the existing bar and connect the cylinder. I used a Chief cylinder I bought from Surplus Center (part # 9-4300-04). Use 1/4" hoses with 3/8" to 1/4" adapters to get a nice smooth operation.
 

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   / Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long) #5  
Better stock up on shear pins if your throwing gravel. On my 64" Puma yesterday I busted 2, one on the pto and the second by the chain. It doesn't take much of a stone to shear them and I have the blower shoes up for about an inch of clearance too. Problem is the ground isn't level that I'm blowing so stones and dirt get picked up.
 
   / Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long) #6  
George, I've read a number of posts regarding gravel and snowblowers and have a fix of sorts. I don't have a blower for the Bota but I had small plates welded to the bottom of my factory skid shoes on a walk behind blower, when I had a gravel driveway. Had the front and back ends turned up like skis. It gave the fixed shoes the ability to ride over the gravel. You have to look at the weight of the blower and guess at this some. The flat bottom on the walk behind (light) was about 1 1/4" x 3". Make them too big and the blower will start to surf the snow. Worked great. Adjusting the top link as mentioned to change the angle of attack would work good too IMO, unless prehaps the drive was really undulating.
 
   / Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long) #7  
I added some 2" plate to the skid shoes on my father in laws walk behind at his request for his 3/4" crushed stone drive. I'll find out how well it works, we just got a 12"+- snow storm. My tractors blower worked well on the 1-1/2" crushed I spread on the driveway this fall. Not all of it worked into the base so it was a little noisey as it picked some up and threw it. No danger of hitting anything where we are at. I just came in from blowing a path all around our side field so we can still easily walk the dogs. I've done it for the last three winters since I got the tractor. It works great and since I mow the field, I know there are not any obsticales. I broke my first shear pin yesterday clearing the turn around when I picked up a 3" thick piece of tree branch. Easily replaced and back in action.
 

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   / Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long) #8  
The easiest way to increase or decrease the angle of attack and height of the front edge of the blower is to have a hydraulic top link. It makes the adjustment so easy and it eliminates setting and resetting the skid shoes.
 
   / Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long)
  • Thread Starter
#9  
MadRef: Thanks for the tip on the chain; I'll keep checking on it. How much "play" should there be; about like a fan belt?

On the hydraulics, I didn't get back to you because I haven't been able to find any name on the joystick valve, so I put quick disconnects on the joystick ports so that I can switch them easily between the TnT and the blower cylinders. There is only one input and one output line (it runs from the power beyond on the hydraulic block that runs the FEL). However the valve schematic looks identical to the schematic that Mark at CCM has linked at the TnT page at his site. One thing that I don't understand about that schematic is how, in the configuration using the power beyond, when you have the TNT joystick cylinders "off" the fluid doesn't just take the line of least resistance from that valve back to the reservoir rather than powering the remote cylinders.

Is there any book you know of that I could get to educate myself a bit on hydraulics? I got Parr's "Hydraulics and Pneumatics" but it hasn't helped too much.
 
   / Baptized the Puma-64 Snowblower (long) #10  
Technically speaking, power beyond is a feature on a directional control valve that allows the pressure gallery to be isolated from the tank gallery and be carried over to an additional valve - usually another directional control valve.

The implementation of the power beyond feature varies with valve type and manufacturer. However the most common arrangement is to install a threaded plug or sleeve that blocks the internal connection between the pressure and tank galleries inside the valve. This creates two outlet ports, the power beyond and the return to tank. The power beyond port is then used to supply high pressure pump flow to the additional directional control valve. The return to tank port returns neutral pressure flow from the work ports (from the cylinders) back to the tank reservoir.

That's the technical description and is an edited version of what is available from "The Insider Secrets to Hydraulics".

In simple laymans terms, if you have more than one valve in a series hydraulic circuit, all valves except for the last must have power beyond capability since neutral pressure exhaust fluid from the valve work ports cannot drive the next valve in the circuit.

When a spool is activated flow is redirected to the cylinder via one of the work port connections. Exhaust from the cylinder is then emptied into the tank gallery thru the other work port connection.
 
 
 
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