Bar oil for chainsaw

Bayrat · Jan 2, 2003

This winter grade oil is something I will look into. My dealer had only the orange jugs on his shelf and made no mention of winter grade, even though it is obviously winter here. Also, I have not heard of having to run these two stroke engines wide open to avoid damage. Never done it unless needed, even my 25 year old Lawn Boy mower has two settings for "light" and "heavy" cutting. I read in another thread that if you let a Stihl idle for two minutes the clutch will burn out. I have to believe that was a fluke when it happed to him, never had that problem with my company saw and it has been at idle plenty of times during sawing/pulling brush out of the way.

pruntyc · Jan 2, 2003

I called Stihl at their company headquarters, and they told me about running the string cutter wide open. I think I was using outboard oil in it, at that time, not now. I don't always run my chain saw wide open, but often, its 23 years old and has cut a lot of cords of wood. The bar oil I use is Poulan, from WalMart, and have only changed the bar once in the 23 years, of course many chains.

Egon · Jan 2, 2003

We too can get bar oil in winter or summer grade and from many different suppliers.
I recall from somewhere the bar oil may not have as many toxic ingriedients as say motor oil. Can't verify this.

But I do have a question. After a few minutes of operation my saw, bar and chain are all warm so why do we use the different weights?
We may put 5-30 oil in our car motor but it doesn't stay at 5 viscosity when warm.
Egon

gobbler · Jan 2, 2003

Has anyone tried the Sthil Bio-Plus bar oil. I saw some at my dealer a couple of months ago when I bought a new chain. It's made with a vegetable oil base. Supposed to better for the environment.

Jim

Bayrat · Jan 2, 2003

Sounds like a great idea, I'm not a tree hugger but sensible conservation along with trade-offs like non-polluting bar oil would interest me. In fact, I was thinking of that very same thing yesterday and did a quick search. Came up with something made mostly of canola oil but have not had time to revisit it yet. As far as the viscosity goes, my feeling is the cold running while the oil is thick may cause more wear, but who knows how much as long as some gets to the bar.

Boondox · Jan 3, 2003

Wow, a gallon for $6 is pretty steep! I pay $3.35 a gallon for the stuff. Shop around.

Pete

Bayrat · Jan 3, 2003

I discovered some of these facts after the purchase, I guess that is why so many people go to the big box stores. I am going to purchase some sort of "environment friendly" oil the next time anyway. I drive an offensive vehicle (4x4 pickup) so perhaps the environmentalists will like me then.

rdbrumfield · Jan 4, 2003

I'm sure it was a fluke that the clutch burnt out, but when a saw is idling, that little needle bearing that the clutch is riding on is spinning pretty fast. I doubt that most cutters grease that bearing with any kind of regularity. I have been using chain saws for forty years and have never had a bearing sieze. Wore out some sprockets, but never a clutch. On the full throttle thing, the faster it is turned up the better the clutch works. The higher centrifical force stops slippage, so less heat build up.

Boondox · Jan 9, 2003

Bayrat -- I don't buy from the big boxes. That chain oil price is from my local Husky/Stihl dealer.

Pete

Gfranklin · Jan 9, 2003

I tend to use some kind of bar oil but I have at times run motor oil in the summer and automatic transmission fluid in winter. No idea if it is hurting it or not. Did get the wood cut though.

Greg