Barn building with tractor help?

[jdmar]

oops, here are some more pics. THere should be one of the post with the gravel fill. One of the post with the barn for perspective. Then a pic of the tractor in the door...and room for a bigger tractor someday! Then one of the barn from the front.

 

[jdmar]

I've got a question for some opinions. My wife and I started thinking ...should we put a dormer on each side of the barn in the 4 foot section where the trusses are wider to let steps go upstairs? It would let a lot more light into the second floor...but would be more work and slow the project a bit. I guess it would not be too big of a deal to add later either. If we did it, we would just extend the top roof section (4/12 pitch) straight out over the lower section until about even with the outside wall. Maybe for looks it would be better to stop short of the outer wall. Here are some pics of the idea. The last pic is with the dormer even with the outside wall. On our barn there would only be one dormer on each side..set about 14-18 feet form one end. Let me know your ideas of "plusses and minuses" of the idea. Thanks for you help.

Peter

 

[wedge40]

Peter, awesome looking barn so far. I looked like fun setting the trusses.
Keep the photos coming.

Wedge

 

[jdmar]

Thanks. I just got back from a vacation---2nd one in 8 years! I am going to place the final 2 posts tomorrow. I am going to get some more help from the guy who put up the trusses. I am getting his bid on helping to finish the roof.. I always hate to not do it all myself...but I've got to be realistic. I am one person, older, small, and a lot of other projects that do need me to do the work. I am slowly getting smarter...let other work for me! I want to get it "in the dry" then everything wlse can be at a slightly slower pace. I think it is better that I start getting the electric run to the barn and all the details for the radiant floor done.

I'll post when I have any more pics.

Peter

 

[jdmar]

Rain has been slowing lots of things down. But we are finaly back on track. We decided to add a few dormers since they would be such a pain to add later. They will let a lot of natural light into the second floor.

My son and I got all the posts in and filled--that part ended up being much easier than we thought it would be..not often that happens. The holes were full of water but that won't hurt anything. We also now have the shed addition framed and most of the purlins on the west side. We have to add another dormer though (late decision on that).

I've got help coming back when we get the roofing metal here. The sheets arn't heavy but just hard to pull/hold/screw with one person and keep the project nice. I think i"d end up with bad allignment if I tried to do that myself. Here are some pics. One across a foggy morning field and one of the barn end and then of shed addition.

 

[EddieWalker]

Peter,

Awesome progress!!!! I always love the look of a building when it's framed up and you see all the wood lined up and doing it's job. Even when I do it myself, I enjoy just looking at it and following the lines to see how it all ties together to stay in position.

The dormers are going to add allot of archetectural interest to it and something I'm sure you will be glad that you did. They are pricey and most people don't realize just how expensive they are, but all that cutting and fitting takes allot of time. It sounds like you are putting in functional dormers that will let light in. That's even more work then the ornamental ones that we put in on homes to make them look nice. I figure each fake one adds about $2,000 in labor and material to a house.

Keep up the great work and thanks for the pictures. It's exciting to see all that you've accomplished.

Eddie

 

[jdmar]

Thanks for the nice words. I to love looking at the "bones" of a building. I admit I sight down the posts just about everytime I walk by to make sure they are still straight. Tomorrow I should be to a point I can accurately measure everything so I can order the roofing.

The dormers also add a lot of extra finish steps. I need to get siding and roofing up on those. I really don't want to walk on the roof after it is all on. I think with the metal roof flashing there is enough flex to put flashing on, then the siding then slip the roof pannel under the flashing and tighten it all down. I will have to see when the roofing material gets here. I would usually put the roof/flashing on then the siding, but may try to change that so I don't damage the roof panels or myself.

I also took another big step(to me anyway) a few minutes ago. I ordered all the parts for the radiant floor. It ends up only about $1.50 per square foot. And that includes extra manifold space/valves/ heavier tubing/expansion tank for the future if I ever heat the top floor (? wife's internet business, etc).

I have this next week almost all off so I hope to really get some jobs done around here. I also have Cub Scout camp for 4 hours every night Mon-Fri. That will take a bite out of work time but I love doing it...I have 2 boys in scouts now. I am also trying to move a part of my drive and do a lot of lanscaping/retaining walls. I do not have "honey-do" lists...I have work orders! Anyone free this week...I'l buy the food and drink!!

Thanks to all for the nice words. This barn will really help our family organize and keep our equipment nice. I have lots of rebuild projects this winter on the equipment--mowers/planter/plow/sprayer/etc.

Peter

 

[schmism]

I've had two jobs this year where attic trusses have started to fail and 2x4's have snapped. Both times were from Christmas "stuff" accumulating in the attic. There is a limit.

If you plan to use that second story for anything more then very limited storage, I missed what your plan was for those floor joists.

Eddie

those arnt attic trusses, those are regular trusses with a 10psf dead load rateing, with no live load. ie no chirstmas stuff was designed to be put in them.

a real attic truss will have a 2x8-2x12 bottom chord in the room. be designed for 30psf (min sleeping room only) but normally a 40psf room load (live load)

barn trusses if specified are usually speced out to load the cubic foot of the space to put hay. and that cubic foot is then turned into a psf loading.

 

[jdmar]

These trusses are not meant for a full hay load (they usually do 80PSF live load here I am told). These are a 2x10 bottom cord of SYP wood. They have a live load of 40 psf and additional dead load (flooring/ceiling/insulation/mechanicals) of 10 psf. For roof/snow load I could have spaced 4' on center but for the flooring load I went to 2' OC. Full load for hay would have required slightly heavier trusses and 16" OC and trippled at the steps...to much money for what I won't put up there. Would ahve almost doubled the truss cost I can still put a lot of hay if I want, just not to the ceiling.
Peter

 

[jdmar]

Now ready for roof, soffit work and siding. I just sent off some measured drawings to get roof estimates today. I am getting two local bids to do the whole job and two bids on all the metal/trim/etc to be delivered to the sight.

Here are a couple pictures with all the purlins on and the dormers done.

Peter