Barn entrance ramp install

[woodchuckcanuck]

Scoob, So from what I can gather from your thread so far, you are pouring this cement on top of the asphalt? If so I predict a couple of problems that will come your way. It would be better to cut away the asphalt and pour concrete down deep, then taper the top to the height of your asphalt.

 

[woodchuckcanuck]

A quick solution would of been to taper a 2x10 pressure treated board. Give it a good soak with PT solution and it will last 20 years as well. Or, dig out some of that asphalt and put down a couple buckets of crushed stone.

 

[Scooby074]

I thought about throwing some gravel or crushed stone there, but i need to use the snow blower to clear this section in winter.

Wood will work, but i want something more "fancy". Ive been using pieces of wood all along, and want to change.

I agree that id rather have a 2" thick piece of concrete on the "thin" end of the ramp, than tapered thin end (less likely to chip). I dont have a concrete saw unfortunately so i will have a hard time getting a clean edge.

I do have a diamond wheel for my grinder. While it wont cut the full 2" it will cut 1.5". I think i might cut the outline of the ramp with that.

 

[woodchuckcanuck]

You can get masonary blades for your circular saw. I use them to cut flagstone for walkways. Not usre if that would suit your purpose.

 

[2manyrocks]

What about using some kind of rubber conveyor belting for the expansion? Some guys can source it for free or cheap.

 

[woodchuckcanuck]

Geo-Cel works well too. Sticks to everything yet still flexible in all temps.

 

[Scooby074]

Thanks for the options guys. I actually found a source for the actual expansion joint material. HomeDepot had it for $18 for6? pieces. I was in Halifax today so i grabbed some.

woodchuckcanuck: where do you get the Geo-Cel stuff? Sounds like a pretty good product. Is it a good caulk? I usually use mono, but will try something else if its better. Does Central carry it?

 

[woodchuckcanuck]

woodchuckcanuck: where do you get the Geo-Cel stuff? Sounds like a pretty good product. Is it a good caulk? I usually use mono, but will try something else if its better. Does Central carry it?

I usually get it at Central. It comes in grey and clear. It may come in white as well, not sure. I usually use clear when installing windows, doors and filling gaps. Great stuff.

 

[Scooby074]

Sorry for the delay, but the ramp is now in. Ill post up the pics of what i did to finish off this thread..

I used my makita grinder with a diamond blade, to cut a square edge in the asphault. One thing about stone dust.... It'll kill electric tools... Ask me how i know? So, after destroying my electric grinder, i switched over to my pneumatic, with no issues. Should have used air power from the beginning

When i cut out the old asphault, i saw why its cracked.... There was no more than 1" of asphault in most places Far to thin. So i dug the gravel down 1" or so so i would have 2" of concrete where i met the existing asphault. Due to the severely bad condition of the asphault i had to expand the area i planned to remove by approximately 2' on either side of the door.

I also didnt like soley relying on rebar for re-enforcement, so i tied in some 6" mesh.

 

[Scooby074]

When i calculated how much concrete i needed, i figured about 8 bags, so being smart (and knowing my luck) i bought 10

Guess what happened??? I must suck at math ended up using 13.5 bags

Nothing like having to run to town for more concrete, knowing that the 9 bags you have poured are quickly hardening!!!!!

No picks of me mixing, didnt have time to document! I will say that mixing 14 bags of concrete the old way, with a hoe, is a heck of a workout! How much are electric concrete mixers again?

If anyone takes on a ramp project, be sure to mix your concrete extra stiff. My first bag was mixed "normal" and it was far too runny, and sagged. This requires you to wait till its setting so you can push it back up where it should be.