Barn walls

/ Barn walls #1  

8n4jr

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2011
Messages
26
Location
Mattawan,MI
Tractor
FORD 8N ,JD 110 &210
Getting ready to finish barn walls w/ OSB I am going to attach it to the horizontal flat 2x4's & use 1.5" foam sheet insulation. Need to know-
-OSB thickness for walls and ceiling
-Screws or nails?
-Any experiences or mistakes I should know of
-suggestions/concerns for pegboard installation in given area's

I would really appreciate any advise,pictures etc.

Thanks,
 
/ Barn walls #2  
1/2" osb for the walls ,and if you can spring for a little extra use 1/2 cdx for the roof .It is alot less slippery and more stable to the weather.Use #8 twist or glue coat nails for the install.If your spans on the roof are 24" oc go to 5/8 cdx for the roof sheathing.
 
/ Barn walls #3  
Put the insulation on before the tin goes on..Otherwise it will sweat-condensate. Put the insulation right up next to the tin no matter how you install it..
 
/ Barn walls
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Hey North Wind, I forgot to specify this is the interior walls and ceiling, shingled roof and metal exterior, thanks so much for your advise.
 
/ Barn walls #5  
What is the center to center spacing of the 2X4s on wall and ceiling? Is the foam going over top of the 2X4 or inbetween? 7/16" works good for walls provided furings strips/purlions (since they are horizontal) are nor over 24" on center. OSB likes to absorb moisture so you need a good vapor barrier behind, but I also like to coat the back side, before installing, with a good coat of paint or ployurethene. OSB will tend to sag aver time in a ceiling even if nailers are at 16" centers, using splice clips help but I found best tuse either 5/8" fire rated sheetrock or ribbed steel for ceilings.

Defintely screw it on.
 
/ Barn walls #6  
As mentioned, with the OSB or other wood panels, you will probably want support on 24 inch centers. If you use metal, you can go 48 inches. If you add up the cost, look at the time involved, and realize the metal is already painted and permanent, metal might make more sense. Interior grade panels are 60 to 70 cents a square foot.
 
/ Barn walls
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks all, I need to get in and get some more specifics, I am going to look into metal for the ceiling as an alternate.
 
/ Barn walls #8  
I agree that 7/16 OSB is the way to go. NOT 1/2". There is a pretty good price jump going th 1/2", and actually, most times I have checked, the 7/16 was even cheaper than 1/4".

I used 7/16 on the interior for mine. Besides dywall (which requires finishing) the 7/16 WAS the CHEAPEST sheeting material I could find.

And I have NEVER seen the price of interior grade metal @ .70/ft. When I did mine, exterior grade was 2.10/ft and interior was 1.70/ft. @ 3' wide, that is ~57 cents per sq ft. A 4x8 sheet of OSB at the time was under $5, so that is under 16 cents per square foot, or about 4x's cheaper:thumbsup:

And as far as advise goes, I nailed mine, but I had a nail gun. If you have a nail gin, it is a lot quicker. Just make sure to get short nails and DONT crank the gun way up and countersink the heck out of them. otherwise you will have a bunch of them sticking through the outside:mad:

AND if you are planning on painting (if you choose OSB), there are two sides to OSB. A slick side, and a very textured side. Put the smooth side out for painting. Even though the rough side is usually the side with the frid lines for ease of installation, it is a lot harder to get a decient paint job IMO.
 
/ Barn walls #9  
And I have NEVER seen the price of interior grade metal @ .70/ft. When I did mine, exterior grade was 2.10/ft and interior was 1.70/ft. @ 3' wide, that is ~57 cents per sq ft. A 4x8 sheet of OSB at the time was under $5, so that is under 16 cents per square foot, or about 4x's cheaper:thumbsup:

Thats what I said, 60 or 70 cents per SQUARE foot. If you add in the cost of adding framing on 16 or 24 inch centers (if it's not already built that way) plus the cost of a couple of coats of paint, not to mention the time required, and I would choose metal every time. Painting OSB ranks right up there with weeding the garden and cleaning the kitty litter with me. :laughing:
 
/ Barn walls #10  
Thats what I said, 60 or 70 cents per SQUARE foot.

My apologies. I was reading too fast and thought you said 60-70 cents per FOOT (which is 3 sq ft):thumbsup:

Painting OSB ranks right up there with weeding the garden and cleaning the kitty litter with me. :laughing:

I agree....IF you use a brush/roller.

I spent $70 on a power painter when I did mine. I fot the one that had the 10' suction hose that ust sticks in the bucket, that way I didnt have to keep re-filling that tiny cup.

My 30x30 shop area, including the ceiling took UNDER an hour:thumbsup:
 
/ Barn walls #11  
Getting ready to finish barn walls w/ OSB
-Screws or nails?
-Any experiences or mistakes I should know of
-suggestions/concerns for pegboard installation in given area's

I would really appreciate any advise,pictures etc.

Thanks,

8n4jr, I installed OSB inside my outbuilding and used 1 5/8 inch drywall screws. Worked out pretty good when I had to remove a panel to run a wire behind it. Very easy to remove. Don't make the mistake I did and that is I installed the OSB tight against each panel. When the OSB expanded it buckled a few panels. I had to unscrew the OSB, shave off about 1/8 inch or so, then reinstall it. So in the installation phase I would place a nail between each panel to allow for expansion.
 
/ Barn walls #12  
Maybe hold the OSB off the floor a bit so it doesn't wick moisture from the concrete.

If you anticipate welding in your shop, metal might be a better choice.
 
/ Barn walls #13  
Getting ready to finish barn walls w/ OSB I am going to attach it to the horizontal flat 2x4's & use 1.5" foam sheet insulation. Need to know-
-OSB thickness for walls and ceiling
-Screws or nails?
-Any experiences or mistakes I should know of
-suggestions/concerns for pegboard installation in given area's

I would really appreciate any advise,pictures etc.

Thanks,

We all got involved in your wall finish but forgot you question of peg board. I would put up the wall (steel or osb) the go back and strip the wall with 1X3 where you want the peg board. use 1/4" pegboard, it is a little harder getting your pegboard hooks locked in put they don't fall out when you pick a tool of them plus the 1/8" stuff warps to easily.
 
/ Barn walls #14  
I put up 7/16 osb on 16" stud wall interior. On some of it I put peg board (used 1 x2 furring strips behind it). Not impressed. I got the peg board cheap enough, but with 1 1/4" ~ 3" deck screws I can hang things where I want. I also use scraps and make hangers (I did that for a 7" side arm grinder). The money is in the hangers. Peg board is nice, but I just found it more limiting than attaching things tot he OSB directly. Grab the cordless drill and a few screws, done in a minute. Simple hooks not going to work? Break out the band saw or sabre saw and a few screws. Done. And custom!
 
/ Barn walls
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Hey thanks for all the reply's and the peg board advise, the peg board and hooks pulling out problem has always tried my patience. Some day I hope to be living the dream of working out of my barn and looking out at the tree's and loading up the wood stove instead of rushing off to the concrete jungle!
 
/ Barn walls #16  
Since you are just covering up the walls inside, I'd just use screws to hold them up. This way if you ever make a change in future, you can just unscrew th board s off and viola acesss and reusable walls!
 

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