Need Help With Ventilation

/ Need Help With Ventilation #1  

Avenger

Veteran Member
Joined
May 16, 2018
Messages
1,531
Location
North Idaho
Tractor
LS XR4145C
I am in the midst of insulating my shop, and a thought struck. What about ventilation? How do you ventilate an insulated shop?

Here is my scenario: I have a 40x60x25 shop with three rooms. The shop is a pole barn type with a concrete floor and metal sides. Between the exterior metal and the wood supports is that thin contractor grade insulation. This insulation is on the roof and exterior walls. The shop is slightly drafty, but not horrible. The contractor grade insulation helps with temps, but not much. The three rooms are the main shop, a small room we call the "shelf room" as it has shelves. And then beyond that is the third room we call "the gun room" as that is where my reloading bench is, among other things. The gun room is 15x30 on the side of the main shop, no where near the ridge. To access the gun room, you must either go from the main shop through the shelf room and into the gun room, OR the gun room has an insulated man door to the outside. The gun room is the only room in the shop with a heater. The door from the main shop to the shelf room is insulated, as well as the door from the shelf room to the gun room.

Since the gun room is heated with a ceiling mounted electric heater on a thermostat, I'd like to bolster the efficacy of that room by insulating it. I have already framed it out and I am about to start installing batting insulation. I plan on doing this to the entirety of the shop, but starting in the gun room. While framing all this out, I was thinking ahead....

I am not a contractor. I have helped build some projects and know just enough to be confident in my abilities to screw something up. I know that I need a vapor barrier, a thin sheet of plastic on the warm side of the insulation. I plan on installing OSB on the interior of the walls in the gun room. So the wall sandwich will look like this: Exterior metal, contractor grade insulation, stud wall with fiberglass batting, vapor barrier, OSB. As I was thinking this through, I realized that I will be enclosing this room, encasing this room in plastic with no ventilation. There is a window that opens to the outside in this room, but that would also allow heat to escape and water to enter if I forget to close it.

I googled it. I learned that an HRV (heat recovery ventilation) system is preferred. These systems are expensive and take up a lot of room. I don't really want to install an HVAC system in the shop. However, I believe I do need some type of ventilation system in this room, one that will not allow heat to escape. I could probably install a type of roof vent, but I'd worry that all the heat would escape though the vent. What's the point in insulating the room if all the heat goes out though a hole in the roof?

So, I'm asking you. What type of passive ventilation system do you have in your insulated shop? Do you have any recommendations for me? Am I over thinking this?

Thank you for your time!
 
/ Need Help With Ventilation #2  
Like yourself, I to would like to know the best way I can provide outside air to my Gas Heater in the shop? I want to add a 4” pipe from floor to ceiling so when Gas Heater is burning, it can pull passive air through the pipe, burn, and out the flue. Wondering if something like this drawing would work?
IMG_9048.jpeg
 
/ Need Help With Ventilation #3  
I am in the midst of insulating my shop, and a thought struck. What about ventilation? How do you ventilate an insulated shop?

Here is my scenario: I have a 40x60x25 shop with three rooms. The shop is a pole barn type with a concrete floor and metal sides. Between the exterior metal and the wood supports is that thin contractor grade insulation. This insulation is on the roof and exterior walls. The shop is slightly drafty, but not horrible. The contractor grade insulation helps with temps, but not much. The three rooms are the main shop, a small room we call the "shelf room" as it has shelves. And then beyond that is the third room we call "the gun room" as that is where my reloading bench is, among other things. The gun room is 15x30 on the side of the main shop, no where near the ridge. To access the gun room, you must either go from the main shop through the shelf room and into the gun room, OR the gun room has an insulated man door to the outside. The gun room is the only room in the shop with a heater. The door from the main shop to the shelf room is insulated, as well as the door from the shelf room to the gun room.

Since the gun room is heated with a ceiling mounted electric heater on a thermostat, I'd like to bolster the efficacy of that room by insulating it. I have already framed it out and I am about to start installing batting insulation. I plan on doing this to the entirety of the shop, but starting in the gun room. While framing all this out, I was thinking ahead....

I am not a contractor. I have helped build some projects and know just enough to be confident in my abilities to screw something up. I know that I need a vapor barrier, a thin sheet of plastic on the warm side of the insulation. I plan on installing OSB on the interior of the walls in the gun room. So the wall sandwich will look like this: Exterior metal, contractor grade insulation, stud wall with fiberglass batting, vapor barrier, OSB. As I was thinking this through, I realized that I will be enclosing this room, encasing this room in plastic with no ventilation. There is a window that opens to the outside in this room, but that would also allow heat to escape and water to enter if I forget to close it.

I googled it. I learned that an HRV (heat recovery ventilation) system is preferred. These systems are expensive and take up a lot of room. I don't really want to install an HVAC system in the shop. However, I believe I do need some type of ventilation system in this room, one that will not allow heat to escape. I could probably install a type of roof vent, but I'd worry that all the heat would escape though the vent. What's the point in insulating the room if all the heat goes out though a hole in the roof?

So, I'm asking you. What type of passive ventilation system do you have in your insulated shop? Do you have any recommendations for me? Am I over thinking this?

Thank you for your time!
I should have added, For you, if an outside air source with a flapper vent would pull fresh air for you? Drawing air from a low point, getting it near the combustion?
 
/ Need Help With Ventilation #4  
Like yourself, I to would like to know the best way I can provide outside air to my Gas Heater in the shop? I want to add a 4” pipe from floor to ceiling so when Gas Heater is burning, it can pull passive air through the pipe, burn, and out the flue. Wondering if something like this drawing would work?View attachment 4692536
if you can find an install manual for the make/model number of your heater and it will tell you what they think proper venting and air intake should be.
Also since you be from B.C. your local code will also have some spec's that will need to be met. I understand B.C. reg's are very strick.

just a few weeks ago i upgraded my gas shop heater (same size just newer) and needed to replace its air intake and chimney to meet code and pass inspection. Without my insurance would not have been valid and here we are not as fussy as B.C. is.
 
/ Need Help With Ventilation #5  
Are you doing anything in there that will generate a lot of fumes or carbon monoxide? If not I’d not worry about it and just crack the window a tiny bit. Just going in and out will allow a little bit of air exchange. If your in there for hours then crack that window a little.
 
/ Need Help With Ventilation #6  
Avenger, I know you already have an electric heater, but if you want to add a more efficient heating and AC system with an air exchange system, this Tosot could be an option for the loading room. Aoraki 24.5 SEER2 12,000 BTU Heat Pump Mini Split AC w/ERV System-230V

I installed a 9K unit from them in a 16x20 summer house and they work well, and are reasonably priced with all the bits needed for installation.
 
/ Need Help With Ventilation #7  
When I built my house I completely wrapped it with the "double bubble" mylar filmed wrap - excellent radiant barrier and vapor barrier underneath the metal roof and metal siding. I sealed all the seams with alum. duct tape. I cut the window & door openings out with a razor knife and folded them back to the framing before installing doors and windows that of course got caulked in. Obviously my house is/was pretty tight.

My attached garage quickly turned into more conditioned household space and I put the woodstove out there. The first year it was always difficult to get a fire going without opening the back door a good bit for a minute or so. I simply put a 4" dryer vent fixture in the wall very close to the stove at the floor and has been perfect ventilation for the stove and I assume the whole house. When the stove is running, you can feel the air stream in. When not in operation there is no breeze coming in (N side of the house, right next to chimney base).

Before installation I removed the flap inside the vent and made a fine galvanized screen to keep any critters out so it stays open year 'round. Been like this for 19 years now and was an inexpensive fix to my problem.
 

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