Barndominium/Shop or "real" House?

[ETD66SS]

I think you'd be fine. I get mine into spaces much tighter than that.

Like I said, it's an option if your T50's aren't working out. But if you're happy with the T50's and aren't looking for an excuse to buy another tool, then stick with what you've got!

One big advantage of the pneumatics is hand fatigue. I've squeezed off a lot of T50 staples, and I usually start to get blisters in the webbing between thumb and index finger, after awhile. The pneumatic stapler is a light single-trigger pull.

This is the stapler I am currently using: 2447-20 So no real fatigue from using that.

When I bought it I was debating between that and the 1/4" crown version, which is twice the price...

 

[WinterDeere]

That looks nice! All of my T50 and #60x staplers are hand-powered, and they work great for smaller jobs, but get old fast on larger jobs. I also have a hammer stapler, but they're usually more trouble than they're worth.

But I have two 18-gauge pneumatic staplers that I use a lot for things like building crates and fixtures. I use them whenever possible, but mine are compressor-driven, so best for in the shop or places where I can easily haul a pancake compressor.

 

[gsganzer]

I have that same Milwaukee 12V stapler. It works really well.

 

[ETD66SS]

The stainless staples don't fold over as easy, but they also are not driven in 100%.

I guess I need to stick to the 3/8" long chisel point staples. Wish I could find some of 1/2" long with chisel points...

 

[ETD66SS]

Almost done with the first two loops for the upper workshop radiant.

Fighting with this pex in sub 30 deg F temps is the worst part.

I'm not stapling the plates in until I have all the loops roughly placed to ensure I have no kinks. I want to have continuous runs with no couplings spliced in to fix kinks etc. I already had to pull out about 40ft of pex and 10 plates becuase a kink occured. Live and learn...

 

[lman]

That's interesting. I have been using my cellphone in my building no problem so far. My structure has 8x8 posts and will have 7-1/4" of insulation on the exterior walls. So I'm hoping even with my less efficient radiant sub-floor solution, I'll still be better off than most traditional forms of heating. (Most homes here are forced hot air).

I also have radiant in the concrete floor below the second story, I expect to keep the garage & workshop at around 50-55F, which will help with heating the living space above.

You must be close to a cell tower if you have steel roofing and walls. I had to run internet to my barn so I could use wifi calling inside.

 

[ETD66SS]

You must be close to a cell tower if you have steel roofing and walls. I had to run internet to my barn so I could use wifi calling inside.

Fortunately the nearest cell tower is in the middle of a farm field the property next to mine and I get great service.

Unfortunately the nearest cell tower is in the middle of a farm field the property next to mine and I have to look at it.

The tower is about 850ft from my building.

 

[LouNY]

Fortunately the nearest cell tower is in the middle of a farm field the property next to mine and I get great service.

Unfortunately the nearest cell tower is in the middle of a farm field the property next to mine and I have to look at it.

The tower is about 850ft from my building.

Could be a lot worse, at least you are getting good service. Depending on the leaves on the trees I can 3-5 of the 5 behind me.

 

[WinterDeere]

You must be close to a cell tower if you have steel roofing and walls. I had to run internet to my barn so I could use wifi calling inside.

I'm miles from the closest cell tower, and have no issue getting service inside my barn with a steel roof. It comes thru the walls (cedar clapboard) just fine.

But the walls of my house are stone, 20" - 22" thick, and it also has a steel roof. Cell service inside the house is highly dependent on how close you stand to a window.