Barns

[BB_TX]

Brandon - Look at <font color=blue><A target="_blank" HREF=http://muellerinc.com/>http://muellerinc.com/</A></font color=blue> for their pricing. Look at the S.P.E.E.D. buildings. You can enter the size you want and it will give pricing for different wall heights and roof pitch.
I was very happy with Mueller. They made a couple parts wrong but responded very quickly and had the parts remade.

 

[s1120]

Rich your killing me with those old barn pictures. The wife and I want to put a barn up on our land, and have gave some thought to getting an old one moved. Boy, its a lot of money/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif, looks like we will just get a pole barn.

As for the concrete vs gravel. Is it possable to start out with gravel, then pour a concrete floor later? Anything you got to do difrent when building?

 

[RichZ]

Paul, I'm sure your pole barn will be beautiful!!

I don't see why you can't start out with gravel and then pour concrete, but I'm sure there will be a TBN'er with the answer.

By the way, the floor in most of the old barns, like mine is just dirt. Of course after 200 years, it's as hard as concrete. I do have a concrete floor in my garage, though.

 

[s1120]

I would like a concrete floor for working on all my cars. But any thing that will get me out of the rain, and snow will be a start.

 

[GSS]

Rancar,

I put a few interior pics of the barn on my site. Check my profile. Look in the Barn folder. Sorry they are so dark, but you should still be able to see a decent amount of the beams etc.

- Gerald

 

[gerard]

consider a mix - half of my shop is concrete and half is crushed gravel. I change oil/paint etc and things on the gravel part and have rolling type things on the concrete side. If you need concrete fo doing car work etc you can pour a pad as large as you want.

 

[LBrown59]

1* Did you build it yourself or did someone else build it for you?
2* How large is your barn?
3* What size property is it located on?
4*Are you happy with its design?
5*What do you use your barn for (storage, livestock, workshop, etc.)
6*Where did you get your barn plans?
7*What type of construction was used?
8**What sort of maintenance does your barn require?
9**Do you recommend steel buildings (roof or siding)?
10**Do you have running water?
11*How about electricity?
12*What would you have done differently?
HunterdonPaul
***** *****
1*Had 2 buildings built at the same time in 1996
2*one is 30x52 with 4 13' wide stalls 2 of which is a work shop the other 2 is a garage for 2 pick ups.
The other building is 22 x 76 with 6 stalls one stall is 16 foot wide for my Orange BX 23.
2 12' stalls are for 2 other pick ups.
Another 2 12' wide stalls are for my 1950 chevy and my 1969 rambler american.
The last 12' wide stall is for storage.
I also have a 20' deep by 24' wide carport with 2 12' wide bays that I built in 1971 and enclosed with 1/4'' OSB and installed 2 swinging OSB doors back about 1995. One stall is for my 8' tilt utility trailer the other is for storage.
Help I need more buildings - I just realized that I have all 12 stalls filled up.
3* 2.33 acres
4*on a scale of 1 to 10 I'd give it a 9.5
5*(storage, workshop & garage cars trucks & tractors .)
6*Desigined them myself.
7*Pole barn except the car port.
Now the car port that's a different matter as it's a combination of pole built stick built and prefabricated
8*Been minimal on all 3 of them.
9*My 30 x 52 is a pole building with vinyl siding and shingled roof.
The 22 x 76 is metal siding with metal roof.
I've been pleased with both.
The carport has stained 1/4' OSB siding and doors.
One side of the roof is corrugated galvanized tin the other half is rolled roofing.
10*In the workshop in the 30x52 and the 16 foot wide bay in the 22x76
11*Yep in all 3 buildings.

12*As to the 30x56 building.
(Definitely would have maid sure the nails used to attach the purloins OSB and vinyl siding didn't penetrate into the inside of the walls.)
Don't know how the builder slipped that one in on me? Must have been asleep on that one!
Would have made the 'building 56' instead of 52' so each bay would be 14' wide rather than 13 feet wide.
Might have installed celotex or similar 1/2 or 7/16 thick 4x8 Styrofoam sheets before attaching the OSB for the walls and roof. This combined with a little shorter nails would have prevented the nails for the vinyl siding and roof shingles from penetrating into the inside of the building. May have used house wrap over the osb before attaching the vinyl siding to the walls.

AS For the 22x76 building would have covered the roof with plastic or a foam rap like FOAM CORE before putting the metal roof on to prevent condensation from forming on the under side of the metal sheets.

The following applies to both buildings:
I Would have had the dirt base for the concrete floor to the height I wanted and the slope away from the building graded and finished before ever starting on the building.
I found out it it's a lot easier to do it that way than to add or take out dirt from inside the building after it's built.
Another thing you have to watch out for if you try leveling the floor from inside the building after it is built you may discover that the post are either 2 short or to long and the doors wont fit the openings.
It's a lot easier and cheeper to get this right before you build the building than correcting it after the building's built.
Same goes for sloping the yard away from the building as it's pretty hard to tell where this outside grading is in retaliation to the floor inside the building. I discovered I couldn't see through the building walls while on the outside trying to do the grading.

Another thing make sure that all of the post on the gable ends are tall enough to reach above the top of the end trusses.
Be sure the post for the sides are high enough to be above the top gerts .
If the post are to short you can't nail the trusses or gerts to them.

If you use rectangular post rather than square post set the post so that the longer measurement runs parallel to the wall.
If you set the post with the longer measurement perpendicular to the wall you will loose interior floor space.

You can never have the site to well prepared before building.

 

[JimR]

Here's my 2 story with a 3rd floor loft 36'x60 almost finished barn circa 1830's. There is also a full basement under it.

 

[JimR]

Here's the front. The 16 light 12 foot barn door front window will be finished next week if I get around to it.