Basic information on hydraulic repair?

[Wendi]

Hello, do you know where I can find basic information on repairing hydraulics? I recently purchased a new TYM T450 with a LT400 loader and after 150 hours several of the fittings around the loader's directional control valve are leaking. Even though I'm hoping the dealer will take care of this problem, since it is still under warranty, I would like to know more about the proper procedures for working on hydraulic components.

 

[Grrrr]

Hello, do you know where I can find basic information on repairing hydraulics? I recently purchased a new TYM T450 with a LT400 loader and after 150 hours several of the fittings around the loader's directional control valve are leaking. Even though I'm hoping the dealer will take care of this problem, since it is still under warranty, I would like to know more about the proper procedures for working on hydraulic components.

Is it just that the pipes have become slightly undone or are their seals leaking? Some more information would help in diagnosing the problem. Maybe some pics?

 

[froggy]

Try this site:

Basic Hydraulics

 

[kennyd]

Here is a 173 page Army Manual

 

[Wendi]

I think it may be both. I'll try to post a jpeg image of the control unit that shows some of the leakage. At first the leaks appeared to be coming from ports connected to the joystick controls (the brass cylinders). Now more fluid is leaking from one of the hoses that connects to the tractor hydraulics. That hose appears to be a replacement and not an original part. Could it be possible that the replacement hose assembly is a two part construction while the others (originals) are of solid construction?

 

[Wendi]

Here is the image of the control unit. ( I hope I have attached the image correctly!) At first the fluid appeared to be coming from the joystick cable attachments, but now, as I have used the hydraulics more, fluid is also coming from this replacement hose.
Thanks for recommending the manual and the website on basic hydraulics. Both look very interesting. I sure will have a lot of reading to do!

 

[hill]

Here is the image of the control unit. ( I hope I have attached the image correctly!) At first the fluid appeared to be coming from the joystick cable attachments, but now, as I have used the hydraulics more, fluid is also coming from this replacement hose.
Thanks for recommending the manual and the website on basic hydraulics. Both look very interesting. I sure will have a lot of reading to do!

If leaks are the whole problem they just need to be fixed one at a time.

The 'free' educational link posted by Froggy is based on the same Army manual posted by KennyD so the two are not as much reading as they first appears to be.

If you have a manual for the tractor, especially one that describes how to install the loader to a previously unequipped machine it might go a long way toward giving you insight into how everything works and where and what the various components are and do. anyway I found my loader manual to be very helpful in figuring out the lay of the land under the covers of my new Kubota tractor.

 

[dfkrug]

Wendi:

Looks like you have so-called "banjo" fittings, as well as some
more conventional threaded fittings. When you find which one is leaking,
make sure you follow theses sealing practices:

> for threaded fittings using pipe thread (NPT), use a paste sealant, not
teflon tape. Tape fragments mess up the internals of spool valves.
> for threaded fittings that use compression sealing (JIC), don't use any
sealant. These fittings have matching-angled surfaces. Don't over-tighten.
> for threaded fittings that have rubber o-rings (ORFS or ORB), don't
use any sealant. Replace any O-ring that is damaged.
> for banjo fittings, you have 2 copper gaskets, one on each side of
the fitting. When re-using these it is best to anneal them to restore
their softness. Heat to red with propane torch and let air cool.

BTW, your loader seems to be made by the same manuf as my
Kioti's. The FEL valve is different, however.

Good luck.

 

[6sunset6]

I think copper anneals when you quench it. Copper is the opposite of steel.
So letting copper cool slow will result in hardening. Not what you would want for seals. Just heat them up and dump in a bucket of water.

 

[dfkrug]

I think copper anneals when you quench it. Copper is the opposite of steel.
So letting copper cool slow will result in hardening. Not what you would want for seals. Just heat them up and dump in a bucket of water.

You are correct, SUNSET. I was not thinking as I typed, and it has
been a long time since I was annealing copper gaskets (fuel injection
systems). I did quench them after sanding out marks from previous use
then heating them. You seem to get work-hardening of the copper
from even one use.