RonMar
Elite Member
OK, Ill ask it... Have you put a wrench on the end bolt of that banjo fitting and checked to see that it is tight? It could have just worked loose... It shouldn't be white knuckle tight, but it should be snug. That also appears to be the high pressure inlet line to the valve(hydraulic safety appears to be right behind it) so it has to deal with full system pressure when you lift a heavy load on the loader.
As for anealing, I used to do that for my R5/RD head seals. I would lay them out on an electric stove burner to heat them red then shut the burner off and let them cool in place. This was the way I was taught, it worked well and I never questioned it. A friend said I should quench them but when I asked why he couldn't tell me. So a trip to the library and several metalurgy books later, we determined that it was the temperature rise above a certain level that performed the anealing process. The quench was optional... The quench appears to be pretty handy if you are using a torch to heat the seals. The shock cooling causes the scale to flake off, but the rapid cooling also tends to warp them a little bit.
As for anealing, I used to do that for my R5/RD head seals. I would lay them out on an electric stove burner to heat them red then shut the burner off and let them cool in place. This was the way I was taught, it worked well and I never questioned it. A friend said I should quench them but when I asked why he couldn't tell me. So a trip to the library and several metalurgy books later, we determined that it was the temperature rise above a certain level that performed the anealing process. The quench was optional... The quench appears to be pretty handy if you are using a torch to heat the seals. The shock cooling causes the scale to flake off, but the rapid cooling also tends to warp them a little bit.