Batteries for 2020 diesel

[wheelbuilder]

I'm still new to tractors, but I've always had better life out of the first battery with a vehicle. Some replacements have done pretty well, but most have been at least 3-4 years short of the first battery. I've never bought a battery from a dealer, so maybe there's something to theirs, but probably not.

 

[DogT]

The only battery on an OEM I've had that didn't last was our '15 Outback. There's lots of complaints about that battery on the Subie forum, but then that's about all you get on the car forums is complaints, unless it's a Mini forum where all they talk about is the latest carbon fiber hood they installed. I don't think we got 2 years out of it. I tend not to get dealer batts too, way too expensive.

The battery ground cable is a very good idea. I did look up some HD batteries and they approach $300 and have some huge CCA numbers. But I think the WallyWorld Maxx 32N for a bit over $100 ea. is about the best deal and I get 1600CCA and the batteries are easy to find and get.

I put smart chargers full time on my batteries now for the last 5 years or more and they seem to last longer. I think I was lucky to get 2-3 years from the WW batts on the tractor and now I'm getting 4-5.

 

[RickB]

If this hasn't already been done I'll suggest to relocate battery ground cable attachment from battery box to starter mounting bolt. Over the yrs the battery box floor gets rusty & looses good continuity between BB floor & clutch housing.

Great advise. Run a new ground cable directly to a starter mount bolt, two individual cables may be less expensiv3 and easier to find generically. Use 1 gauge or larger cable. The tractor calls for 2 BCI Group 24 batteries wired in parallel.

 

[DogT]

Well, the Maxx 24 is 700CCA with 130 reserve capacity, the 34N is 800CCA with 110 reserve capacity. For some reason the 24 is about an inch taller than the 34N but same W x L. They're both the same price. $120 plus tax. Prolly doesn't make much diff. How did you come up with the 24 size? I'm not even sure how I came up with the 34N other than it fit and had the most CCA I could find for that size. I've had this tractor since '85 or so. I do have the JD battery number, but I haven't tried to cross reference it.

Yes, I agreed earlier that the ground would be best put right on the starter but I haven't had any issues yet, I keep the grounds and contacts clean and painted. I'll have to find a cable for that however. I could also measure the resistance from the battery ground to the starter with my Fluke 189 meter that measures in microSiemens, the reciprocal of ohms. It will measure some very low ohms in that mode. The cable from the battery to the starter ground is going to be some amount of ohmage because of the length. That's probably about 2-3 feet.

Keep the ideas coming, good info.

 

[RickB]

Every Dubuque or Mannheim 20 or 30 series Deere utility tractor I have ever been around called for a Group 24 battery. If a 34 is the same cost and more CCA, go for it if you choose. The resistance in a sound 24” battery cable will be very near zero. The resistance of a ground path through 2 or 3 bolted connections of 50 year old sheet metal that was painted before assembly is reason enough to use long cables going directly to the starter. Lousy grounds can shorten battery life as much as causing poor starting due to poor voltage sensing and poor charge rates.

1200 combined CCA is more than enough to start that little 219. More CCA in the same size package isn’t alwasys better. Thinner plates, less bonding material, less space between plates, less resistance to vibration and shock. There’s a difference between automotive and commercial battery construction.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Today my batteries won't start the 2020. Two Walmart Maxx 34N, 36mo prorated warranty. I bought them in 2014 for about $100 ea. so they're 6 or 7 years old. I guess that's pretty good. It's about my only option locally unless I go to Autozone or a auto store. Supposedly 800CCA. I keep a smart manager on them full time. They've been fine until the last couple times this late winter and I removed them last week, checked the water which was OK and cleaned the terminals and greased the terminals up. But they appear gone. Didn't get a few rotations when it started clicking. And it's nearly 50F out today but it was below freezing last night. Anyone with better battery options for these diesel tractors?

I got 17 years out of my original 03 Dakota battery, I'm still on the 2nd one now. 12 years from my original Miata AGM Panasonic battery.

I favor the Interstate 48 month Group 34 sold by Costco $88. 800CCA, 1000CA.

 

[DogT]

The 24 battery is 1" taller than the 34N. That's the only diff besides the CCA and reserve. I think I've had 2-3 sets of 34's in this tractor by now if not more. The grounds have all been cleaned and re-painted several times, so it's not in original condition. But it may be time to do it again if I don't buy a long ground cable. I do some maintenance on it when I change batteries. It always helps. Supposed to be in the 60's today so I may get to the barn and see what's going on with it.

I assume you're referring to the engine when you say 219. That's close to the CI displacement.

Close to 0 can be a half volt or more drop at 50A current draw. 0.01Ω at 50A = 0.5V so 0.02Ω would be 1V lost while trying to start. Those little amounts of resistance really add up when trying to start. That's why those cables are so big and grounds important. It doesn't take much rust or bad connection to get 0.05Ω or more pretty quick even if you can't measure it. You can sure measure the voltage drop by measuring across the cable or bad joint. And it's self defeating. As it draws current, the R gets even bigger quick from heat build up at the bad spot.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The 24 battery is 1" taller than the 34N. That's the only diff besides the CCA and reserve. I think I've had 2-3 sets of 34's in this tractor by now if not more. The grounds have all been cleaned and re-painted several times, so it's not in original condition. But it may be time to do it again if I don't buy a long ground cable. I do some maintenance on it when I change batteries. It always helps. Supposed to be in the 60's today so I may get to the barn and see what's going on with it.

I assume you're referring to the engine when you say 219. That's close to the CI displacement.

Close to 0 can be a half volt or more drop at 50A current draw. 0.01Ω at 50A = 0.5V so 0.02Ω would be 1V lost while trying to start. Those little amounts of resistance really add up when trying to start. That's why those cables are so big and grounds important. It doesn't take much rust or bad connection to get 0.05Ω or more pretty quick even if you can't measure it. You can sure measure the voltage drop by measuring across the cable or bad joint. And it's self defeating. As it draws current, the R gets even bigger quick from heat build up at the bad spot.

Excellent!

 

[RickB]

The 24 battery is 1" taller than the 34N. That's the only diff besides the CCA and reserve. I think I've had 2-3 sets of 34's in this tractor by now if not more. The grounds have all been cleaned and re-painted several times, so it's not in original condition. But it may be time to do it again if I don't buy a long ground cable. I do some maintenance on it when I change batteries. It always helps. Supposed to be in the 60's today so I may get to the barn and see what's going on with it.

I assume you're referring to the engine when you say 219. That's close to the CI displacement.

Close to 0 can be a half volt or more drop at 50A current draw. 0.01Ω at 50A = 0.5V so 0.02Ω would be 1V lost while trying to start. Those little amounts of resistance really add up when trying to start. That's why those cables are so big and grounds important. It doesn't take much rust or bad connection to get 0.05Ω or more pretty quick even if you can't measure it. You can sure measure the voltage drop by measuring across the cable or bad joint. And it's self defeating. As it draws current, the R gets even bigger quick from heat build up at the bad spot.

With the original ground location if you aren’t disassembling the cowl support and battery support from the clutch housing and cleaning the mating surfaces you aren’t cleaning the ground path. That’s why I recommend a cable directly in contact with the starter frame. You can give me paragraphs of electrical data and theory but you can’t alter the practical reality. BTW that starter is going to draw a lot more than your 50A reference point. Measuring voltage drop is basic starter system troubleshooting and isn’t a new concept for me.

 

[Tx Jim]

With the original ground location if you aren’t disassembling the cowl support and battery support from the clutch housing and cleaning the mating surfaces you aren’t cleaning the ground path. That’s why I recommend a cable directly in contact with the starter frame. You can give me paragraphs of electrical data and theory but you can’t alter the practical reality. BTW that starter is going to draw a lot more than your 50A reference point. Measuring voltage drop is basic starter system troubleshooting and isn’t a new concept for me.

DITTO JD utility tractor engineers didn't choose a very good location to attach ground cable attachment when they choose the battery box for attaching ground cable to tractor.