Battery and Charging System

[bsekf]

I just bought this tractor and the battery went flat. Looked around and I may have left the dash light on. So I charged the battery, it showed 12.8 volts on my multimeter. With the tractor running it still showed <13 volts. The multimeter did not indicate a short. Left it alone for a week and the battery showed 9.8 volts. Started the tractor and it showed 12.8 to 13 volts.

It appears I have a small drain (short), but it doesn't measure on my multimeter. It appears the alternator/regulator are working, but I think they should show more like 14 volts after starting.

What is my next move? Do I charge the battery and remove the ground and see if it loses voltage? Since it shows no drain with the multimeter, how do I find a short? If there is one. The tractor is new to me but the battery looks to be in good shape.

Bill

 

[Williy]

Take the battery in and have it tested
I purchased a battery tester they are
cheap and saves a lot of time as it takes
less time to get it out and test a battery
than to remove the battery and take to
town to test!

willy

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Different alternators/generators show different voltages and some of the newer types limit charging current based on detected capacity which results in a lower voltage reading.

As suggested, you might want to have your battery load tested to verify if it needs to be connected to an exercise charger for a while or not.

 

[Roadworthy]

I'll go along with the above suggestions. You can easily test for a drain on the battery when not in use. Disconnect one lead then connect an ammeter between the disconnected lead and the battery terminal from which it was removed. A basic tractor should have no current flow. If there is an onboard computer you may have some current flow to maintain its memories, etc. Your dealer may be able to tell ;you what's normal.

 

[WranglerX]

I'll go along with the above suggestions. You can easily test for a drain on the battery when not in use. Disconnect one lead then connect an ammeter between the disconnected lead and the battery terminal from which it was removed. A basic tractor should have no current flow. If there is an onboard computer you may have some current flow to maintain its memories, etc. Your dealer may be able to tell ;you what's normal.

Ditto....

Until you have battery tested and test for parasitic drain (ammeter) anything else is just a WAG (Wild A$$ Guess) ...

 

[the old grind]

I keep automatic chargers/maintainers on all vehicles but my daily driver and golf cat, esp any that won't hold a charge overnight. (One awaiting my ambition is a stuck relay draining when the '12 truck's key is off/out.) If you just bought the tractor I wonder if the battery spent enough time on the lot or awaiting assembly/accessories to self discharge and age prematurely.

And I'm confident that the load test will tell you if you need a replacement already. Within a week or so of purchase I might put that on the dealer. For all you know they jump-started it a time or two and hoped with regular use the battery would be ok for you.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

I keep automatic chargers/maintainers on all vehicles but my daily driver and golf cat, esp any that won't hold a charge overnight. (One awaiting my ambition is a stuck relay draining when the '12 truck's key is off/out.) If you just bought the tractor I wonder if the battery spent enough time on the lot or awaiting assembly/accessories to self discharge and age prematurely.

And I'm confident that the load test will tell you if you need a replacement already. Within a week or so of purchase I might put that on the dealer. For all you know they jump-started it a time or two and hoped with regular use the battery would be ok for you.

If your '12 truck is a Ford, it is usually the dash clock that is the culprit.

 

[the old grind]

Thanks. Silverado 2500HD 6.0. When I disconnect/connect the battery at the post I hear the throttle body click. Gary found what a likely culprit on the net somewhere, from guys who were onto the issue. Been that way for two years. btw, started right up and ran 10,000/5,000W inverter sweet for 9 hrs during last week's power outage. (lost hot to my pole/can for 3 days) LED on it said ~13v steady when running fridge, dehumer, fans, laptop charger, lamps, 'net.

Oh, sorry to 'switch' voltages back'rds. Find maintainers you like, one of this or that for now and get more as you find favorites. Leave one one every wet battery that isn't started say every two days. You can buy two good ones for half what a battery costs. I have a dozen or so, five or more brands, and my favorites. I could use three or four more, actually.

 

[oosik]

I have several "battery tenders" and rotate them amongst my equipment. Several of the batteries will be brought inside for the winter. Easier on the battery - easier to maintain a charge. The ATV & tractor will have a "battery tender" attached all winter.

 

[John_Mc]

It sounds as though you have a shorted cell or two in your battery. You can get it load tested at an auto parts store to find out for sure. Another test: charge the battery fully and disconnect it from your tractor. if it still self-discharges down to 10 volts or so, you have a bad cell in the battery.

A bad cell does not mean that that is the ONLY problem you have, but diagnosing alternator problems can be really tough if you've got a bad battery in the circuit.