kennyd
Advertiser
IIRC, the newer 2520's have 40 amp alternators already?
battery for 2520
- Thread starter pkav32
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IIRC, the newer 2520's have 40 amp alternators already?
glc24
Platinum Member
That is correctomundo.
Greg
sldva00
Silver Member
If the alternators are already 40amps, then I probably just have a bad battery.
I've been doing a lot of loader work (removing brush with fork lifts) during my first 25hrs of operating. When doing so, I don't crank up the rpms to the recommended mark. I don't need all that power to lift what I'm lifting. In doing so, could it be that the alternator is not properly maintaining a charge? Just wondering if my dead battery is my doing or it is just a bad one.
I've been doing a lot of loader work (removing brush with fork lifts) during my first 25hrs of operating. When doing so, I don't crank up the rpms to the recommended mark. I don't need all that power to lift what I'm lifting. In doing so, could it be that the alternator is not properly maintaining a charge? Just wondering if my dead battery is my doing or it is just a bad one.
kennyd
Advertiser
Welcome to the world of JD battery's. They have a mind of their own. Get it replaced under warranty.
glc24
Platinum Member
Hello sldva00,
Greg
I don't think this has anything to do with your battery not holding a charge.Could just be a bad battery.
Greg
sldva00
Silver Member
sldva00
Silver Member
JD755
Platinum Member
So it was not the ST version of the Strongbox?
sldva00
Silver Member
No, it just says Strongbox.
sldva00
Silver Member
You, along with Greg and KennyD are probably right. I will take the tractor in to file a claim. I was going to the dealer anyway (hour drive) to get fluids and filters for the 50hr service. The only battery charger I have is a double bank MinnKota I use for my deep cycle batteries. I did hook it up, and the full charge led lit up right away. I'm sure my charger isn't sufficient enough to charge up a starting/cranking battery.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
The smallest dual bank MK charger is a 10 amp chargerthat I know of, this should be sufficient to charge up your tractor battery. The only deep cycle batteries that run a lower voltage are gel batteries. Most wet cell and AGM batteries will all charge at a slightly higher voltage. I use a three bank charger to charge a cranking battery and two deep cycle AGMs' on my boat.
Good to take it in and have it all checked out though.
Good to take it in and have it all checked out though.
sldva00,
The first thing wrong is that you're guessing! Several things could be causing you problem, I'd like to know how many good batteries are returned every year because of poor trouble shooting.
What you need is a cheap digital meter. Measure the voltage of the battery with the engine and key off. What do you get? It should be in the area from 12 to about 13.4 volts. Lead/acid batteries run 2.2 volts per cell and there are 6 cells (13.4 volts). AGM (glass mat) run about the same.
The battery will most likely measure around 12.5 to 13 volts. Now start the tractor and run the engine about 1600 rpms (enough to charge a battery). Measure the voltage across the battery with the engine running. What do you get? You should see the charge around 13.8 volts maybe slightly higher. now you know the alternator is working properly.
If the battery reads, say, 10. 5 volts after a charge with the engine off it has a bad cell but before you rush to get a new battery make sure you don't have a short in the system.
Disconnect the battery and with the key off measure the resistance between the pos and negative terminals. It should be over 10k ohms (10,000 ohms), it may register as open but it should be high. If you read 500 ohms or less you likely have a short problem and it's killing your battery. Make sure when you check this you don't have any light switches or signals on.
With your tractor running relatively low rpms your battery should still charge. The difference between alternators (AC) and generators (DC) is that alternators need to spin much faster to generate charging energy. This is why they are geared way up so that when an engine is running above a low idle the battery charges. In short you're probably charging your battery even though you're running at 1400 or 1600 rpms with a good system.
Rob
ps: the original alternator on the 2520 is more than capable of charging the battery.
The first thing wrong is that you're guessing! Several things could be causing you problem, I'd like to know how many good batteries are returned every year because of poor trouble shooting.
What you need is a cheap digital meter. Measure the voltage of the battery with the engine and key off. What do you get? It should be in the area from 12 to about 13.4 volts. Lead/acid batteries run 2.2 volts per cell and there are 6 cells (13.4 volts). AGM (glass mat) run about the same.
The battery will most likely measure around 12.5 to 13 volts. Now start the tractor and run the engine about 1600 rpms (enough to charge a battery). Measure the voltage across the battery with the engine running. What do you get? You should see the charge around 13.8 volts maybe slightly higher. now you know the alternator is working properly.
If the battery reads, say, 10. 5 volts after a charge with the engine off it has a bad cell but before you rush to get a new battery make sure you don't have a short in the system.
Disconnect the battery and with the key off measure the resistance between the pos and negative terminals. It should be over 10k ohms (10,000 ohms), it may register as open but it should be high. If you read 500 ohms or less you likely have a short problem and it's killing your battery. Make sure when you check this you don't have any light switches or signals on.
With your tractor running relatively low rpms your battery should still charge. The difference between alternators (AC) and generators (DC) is that alternators need to spin much faster to generate charging energy. This is why they are geared way up so that when an engine is running above a low idle the battery charges. In short you're probably charging your battery even though you're running at 1400 or 1600 rpms with a good system.
Rob
ps: the original alternator on the 2520 is more than capable of charging the battery.
Last edited:
glc24
Platinum Member
Rob,
That is very good info to know.
Thanks
Greg
That is very good info to know.
Thanks
Greg
sldva00
Silver Member
Yes I am guessing. I always check the voltage between batteries and alternators as you described. Unfortunately the Beckman gave out before my battery problems after 20yrs of use. Don't want to spend money on a new one, so will be visiting eBay soon. Looking for another Beckman Industrial.
This I did not know. Will do as soon as I replace my meter.
Thanks Rob
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
sldva00,
You might consider a Fluke combination vom/ac-dc current clamp. I like Beckman too but the Fluke is a better value, I have several of the Fluke meters now and used to have a Beckman 360. For sure all of these are overkill for these tests.
You might consider a Fluke combination vom/ac-dc current clamp. I like Beckman too but the Fluke is a better value, I have several of the Fluke meters now and used to have a Beckman 360. For sure all of these are overkill for these tests.
sldva00,
You might consider a Fluke combination vom/ac-dc current clamp. I like Beckman too but the Fluke is a better value, I have several of the Fluke meters now and used to have a Beckman 360. For sure all of these are overkill for these tests.
Steve,
I use Fluke meters too. Very good. My two old hand held model '77's are 25 years old. On the bench I use an Agilent 34410A, it's the cat's meow! Pricey though.
Here's the kicker, I just bought a relatively cheap Tenma (what's that? A kid telling his mother how high he can count?) clamp meter for my solar and it's great. True RMS and accurate, actually more than I need in a clamp meter but it was only about 85 bucks!
Rob
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Dave
Thats a good price!
I use a Fluke 336 true rms clampmeter 600v/600a for my main clamp and have the cheaper Fluke T5-600's 600v/100a for each service truck. I have had good success and longevity from all of them. I try to keep a top quality set of test equipment at the office for more exacting requirements and more expendable gear on the trucks full time. Enough about that though.
I agree with you that in effect there is a need for a good diagnosis of the problem rather than guessing. I am sure we have all been in similar circumstances though as I feel naked trying to diagnose without test gear.
Thats a good price!
I use a Fluke 336 true rms clampmeter 600v/600a for my main clamp and have the cheaper Fluke T5-600's 600v/100a for each service truck. I have had good success and longevity from all of them. I try to keep a top quality set of test equipment at the office for more exacting requirements and more expendable gear on the trucks full time. Enough about that though.
I agree with you that in effect there is a need for a good diagnosis of the problem rather than guessing. I am sure we have all been in similar circumstances though as I feel naked trying to diagnose without test gear.
