BCS blues

[WesKootenay]

Setting up my new 26" Berta flail mower today. As I don't have any other front mount implements, I have been bitten by the PTO rod rotation problem - it is seized solid! Found the BCS service bulletin 2-24 that shows how to repair it. Unfortunately, it doesn't tell you what size punch you need, the roll-pin you are pounding out is described on the parts diagram as a 4x200 split pin, but it is not 4mm - barely 3. I'll contact EarthTools to see if they can help. Meanwhile, have any of you done this repair? I've used heat and WD-40, as recommended, but the pin won't budge. I'm on the verge of drilling it out, but I'll wait.
Any help appreciated.

Cheers!



Edit: Guess I should've checked EarthTools first. They have some good info on this problem + the punch size, 1/8".

 

[Ford850]

I'd start with better penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench, JB80, or something similar but better than WD40. Soak it a few times per day and leave it soak at least a day.

 

[fried1765]

Setting up my new 26" Berta flail mower today. As I don't have any other front mount implements, I have been bitten by the PTO rod rotation problem - it is seized solid! Found the BCS service bulletin 2-24 that shows how to repair it. Unfortunately, it doesn't tell you what size punch you need, the roll-pin you are pounding out is described on the parts diagram as a 4x200 split pin, but it is not 4mm - barely 3. I'll contact EarthTools to see if they can help. Meanwhile, have any of you done this repair? I've used heat and WD-40, as recommended, but the pin won't budge. I'm on the verge of drilling it out, but I'll wait.
Any help appreciated.

Cheers!

View attachment 597730View attachment 597731View attachment 597732

Edit: Guess I should've checked EarthTools first. They have some good info on this problem + the punch size, 1/8".

Kroil...is widely recognized as the best penetrating oil on the market.
Seems to be rather difficult to find anywhere locally.
Amazon sells it, and it is a bit pricey.

BE PATIENT!
Spray Kroil...let it sit for an hour or two.
Spray Kroil again & again....let it sit each time.
Over and over again! Sit overnight.
Tap pin hard, after each Kroil application
It WORKS !!!!
BE PATIENT !!!

 

[WesKootenay]

Thank you both.
I'm using three different brands of penetrating oil, one claims to freeze the rust and crack it - I don't think so! I will try to find Kroil in town, I've never heard of it.
So far, I've used heat, penetrating oil, two 1/8" pin punches and a big pipe wrench - no luck. If all else fails, I'll have to drill the pin out, could be difficult as they are hard steel.
:drink:

 

[jbradley]

Kano Labs does its sales directly. It's probably a reseller on Amazon. I first purchased mine with their google special at Google Deal
I've gotten the stuck pto shifter to rotate on both my 948 and 732, though I never got around to disassembling either, and subsequently broke the top swivel. It is currently on my to do list to take both apart and fix them per the service bulletin.

 

[WesKootenay]

Kano Labs does its sales directly. It's probably a reseller on Amazon. I first purchased mine with their google special at Google Deal
I've gotten the stuck pto shifter to rotate on both my 948 and 732, though I never got around to disassembling either, and subsequently broke the top swivel. It is currently on my to do list to take both apart and fix them per the service bulletin.

Good to know, I'll look out for it.

BTW, we passed through your state last Fall - very nice scenery and people. On our way home after picking up the mower in Kentucky - another nice state.

 

[WesKootenay]

The saga continues.
Two 1/8" pin punches and raised blood pressure later, the pin is out!! However, the rotating shaft doesn't
I'm listening to the forum's advise, so it's heat, spray, tighten the puller, heat, spray, tighten the puller - etc. I did try pounding on the bottom of the shaft as the procedure says but I'm scared that I will break something.
This is a very poor design, there should (at least) be a sticker pointing to this saying 'Rotate monthly' - it may be in the User Manual which, of course, I've read from cover to cover

 

[WesKootenay]

Well, I tried! The shaft almost came out, then I decided to give it a little help by twisting it - just a bit - SNAP!
New parts ordered today.
I never know what day it is but, to those of you not retired, have a great weekend.



:drink:

 

[Ford850]

That's too bad. I'll say you should have continued the 'soak it with oil and heat it' routine for another few days, and have more patience. But in reality I would have done what you did.
I've never had a problem with mine but it is stored indoors, gets rotated a couple times per year, and I keep all parts lubed with Fluid Film. FF creeps into cervices and doesn't evaporate or dry up, so it's perfect for joints like that.
I'm looking forward for your post showing the shiny new parts on there. :thumbsup:

 

[WesKootenay]

That's too bad. I'll say you should have continued the 'soak it with oil and heat it' routine for another few days, and have more patience. But in reality I would have done what you did.

My wife kept saying the same thing, she also reminded me that we still have a foot of snow on the ground. Selective hearing I guess??

I've never had a problem with mine but it is stored indoors, gets rotated a couple times per year, and I keep all parts lubed with Fluid Film. FF creeps into cervices and doesn't evaporate or dry up, so it's perfect for joints like that.
I'm looking forward for your post showing the shiny new parts on there. :thumbsup:

Hmm, never heard of that stuff. It's available locally, I'll have to try it. Thanks!

 

[jbradley]

I'll have to keep 'having patience' in mind when I tackle mine (a 732 and 948). The 732's problems are my own doing, because I didn't take it apart and lube it up when it first started getting stiff. The 948 was stiff when I purchased the machine last fall. The 34-in tillee was the only implement the guy ever used on it, and when I asked him what the lower hand lever on the right side was, he didn't know, because he never used it. Needless to say, changing the handlebar direction was a bit stiff, too.

 

[WesKootenay]

I'll have to keep 'having patience' in mind when I tackle mine (a 732 and 948). The 732's problems are my own doing, because I didn't take it apart and lube it up when it first started getting stiff. The 948 was stiff when I purchased the machine last fall. The 34-in tillee was the only implement the guy ever used on it, and when I asked him what the lower hand lever on the right side was, he didn't know, because he never used it. Needless to say, changing the handlebar direction was a bit stiff, too.

If yours are only 'stiff', you are miles ahead of me - mine was 'welded'. Possibly a good soak will free them up for disassembly and lubing?
Cheers.

 

[jbradley]

Well, I finally tried tackling the 732, and the pins are welded in place. I'd already purchased the upper coupling, because I'd broken it when changing the direction of handle bars. I'll have to tackle the upper pin when I get the lower one apart, because there is too much give when trying to hammer out the pin. I'd tried putting a section of railroad track behind it, but it still had too much give. I've been spraying Kroil on it 2-3 times a day. I haven't yet applied heat.

 

[WesKootenay]

Well, I finally tried tackling the 732, and the pins are welded in place. I'd already purchased the upper coupling, because I'd broken it when changing the direction of handle bars. I'll have to tackle the upper pin when I get the lower one apart, because there is too much give when trying to hammer out the pin. I'd tried putting a section of railroad track behind it, but it still had too much give. I've been spraying Kroil on it 2-3 times a day. I haven't yet applied heat.

I feel your pain!
My parts arrived yesterday in a BIG box - I never think of EarthTools as a 'big box store' :laughing:



I bought a new PTO shaft and seal just in case, didn't need them but I may one day.



Took a while to clean things up so the lever was free to turn. Coated everything with a generous layer of never-seize, I was able to push the new pin in with big ChannelLock pliers - bit different to taking it out!!



All good now, spent the day flail mowing with no problems.

 

[Ford850]

I'm looking forward for your post showing the shiny new parts on there. :thumbsup:

My parts arrived yesterday
View attachment 599835
All good now, spent the day flail mowing with no problems.

That's more like it!

 

[jbradley]

Well, I finally tried tackling the 732, and the pins are welded in place. I'd already purchased the upper coupling, because I'd broken it when changing the direction of handle bars. I'll have to tackle the upper pin when I get the lower one apart, because there is too much give when trying to hammer out the pin. I'd tried putting a section of railroad track behind it, but it still had too much give. I've been spraying Kroil on it 2-3 times a day. I haven't yet applied heat.

I've finally started tackling the 948. The pin came out fairly easily when I used a 1/8" center punch, rather than the flat 1/8" punch. Keeping it in position made the difference. I still haven't gotten the rod out of its socket. I go out and spray it with Aerokroil a couple of times a day, and give it a few taps. It will eventually give. In the meantime, I managed to break the swivel of the top rod.

I've temporarly given up on the 732, as it's 100+ miles away at my oldest son's. It was an expensive trip taking it to him, as the rear differential crapped out. It's an awful feeling when your at the side of the interstate 100 miles from home, and not going anywhere. Fortunately, I was able to get home by engaging the front axle and driving in pseudo-4-wheel drive. I will tackle it again when I take the upper PTO rod and swivel to him, which I forgot to grab as I went out the door.

After dealing with this with both tractors, I think that they should have had an enclosed bottom to the socket with a grease fitting. Then, if you had to knock out a stuck rod, you could take off the fitting and use a punch through the opening.

 

[WesKootenay]

Sorry to hear it is not going well - with either machine! Eventually all will be well. I agree it is a poor design, but it's what we are stuck with. Now that we have the flail-mower, the shaft gets rotated regularly. I learned the hard way to store our 732 with the clutch engaged - at least I now know how to free the cone.

That was very smart thinking, engaging the 4WD and driving in FWD - very Iowan. :thumbsup:

 

[jbradley]

... I learned the hard way to store our 732 with the clutch engaged - at least I now know how to free the cone.
...

I learned the lesson about keeping the clutch disengaged on my 732, also. I didn't try to deal with it myself and took it to my local dealer. He said they had to finally put in on the hydraulic press, because it resisted all their other efforts to separate it. When I purchased the 948, I commented to the the guy that I bought it from that he should store it with the clutch disengaged (it was in his shop with the clutch engaged) and he said he always left it in the engaged position. He was lucky.

 

[WesKootenay]

When I purchased the 948, I commented to the the guy that I bought it from that he should store it with the clutch disengaged (it was in his shop with the clutch engaged) and he said he always left it in the engaged position. He was lucky.

.......or, he read the manual? I don't remember seeing this instruction.
Live and learn.

 

[jbradley]

Success! I finally got the PTO shaft out of its socket. I was giving it a few wacks with a hammer, per the instructions from EarthTools download, and not getting anywhere, so I looked at tools that I had purchased when working on the front end of my pickup. The pictured tool with the cut out washers did the trick.