bearing friction

[arrow]

Anybody got a trick to make new bearings spin more freely. I've tried rotating the bearing with a drill while applying WD40. That actually seems to make them worse. I wonder if lapping compound first then WD40 would do the trick. Some of you old Soapbox Derby participants may know a method. I know as they get broken in they free up but I'm trying to hasten the process.

 

[al b]

I don't understand what you are asking. is it roller bearing or ball bearing? every one I bought spins free.

 

[firemanpat2910]

Do you mean bearings or bushings? too many variables with out more info. Sealed roller bearings, open roller bearings, wheel type 2 piece bearings, brass, nylon or wood bushings. There are many ways to lube each style and I cant think of one where I would use wd40. except the hinge of the trash can if I throw the can right.

 

[firedog]

cant think of one where I would use wd40. except the hinge of the trash can if I throw the can right.

LOL

There are times when I repack wheel bearings. The exact type of bearing and it application would need to be know to make a better assessment.
But in general terms of bearings; consider this sequence:
1) place is paper bag; 2) throw in trash can; 3) buy new bearing.

Seriously though, lapping compound is the last thing you want to apply to bearings.

 

[David Ferguson]

I think he's talking about a spherical bearing, or a rod-end. We use these on race cars, and we want to remove the "stiction" when new. I understand the PTFE lined ones only wear out with heat, so you have to either spin them very fast on the drill, or heat them up some while spinning.

 

[arrow]

Here's a picture. They are called spherical bearings as Mr Ferguson guessed. Sorry to all for the confusion. Some are ptfe lined but most are metal to metal. Just looking for a general way if any exist to loosen them up. "Stiction" is a great word for these out of the box.

 

[Farmerford]

A while back I used lapping compound on some fairly large all metal ones (1" dia shaft) and it worked well. Seems like I started with coarse and then shifted to fine for the last bit. I did not take long. I did not use a drill; I just rotated the ball from side to side with a shaft through it once I got the lapping compound into the joint. Then I cleaned it out with mineral spirits.

But I am concerned that lapping compound could get embedded in the plastic liners of the lined bearings.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Here's a picture. They are called spherical bearings as Mr Ferguson guessed. Sorry to all for the confusion. Some are ptfe lined but most are metal to metal. Just looking for a general way if any exist to loosen them up. "Stiction" is a great word for these out of the box.

Those bearings are not really meant for spinning, but do allow for pivot and some lower rotation rate conditions. It may be seals causing the drag or just dead snug metal to metal. For metal to metal see if you can work some Militec-1 into the ball-socket area.
larry

 

[oliver28472]

Spray graphite aka lockease.

 

[dbdartman]

SPYDERLK is right. Spherical rod ends are not supposed to be "free" or "loose" but will have some friction to them. I'm quite familiar with them, but as used in race car suspension systems in place of ball joints, tie rod ends, & other component bushings. "Open" rod ends have less friction than the ones with the teflon seals, but also allow dirt to enter easily & will wear faster. If you must lube them, use a dry lube like graphite, so it won't attract dirt/dust.

Attached is a couple pics of rod ends on a friend's drag car. First is 3/8" rod ends as tie rod ends, second shows two of three 1/2" rod ends; one that keeps the engine located fore & aft (on right) & two (one shown hanging from frame rail) that tie the frame rails & engine together. Shock absorbers also have rod ends top & bottom.