beginner novice needs a light duty welder

[nickmags]

I have not welded in fifty years, and then only in high school auto shop. I find myself needing a light duty (110VAC preferably) electric welder for small jobs around our little farm. The other side of the coin is it MUST be cheap. We are retired and living on a small pension. Some extra each month but not a lot. Local welders not only charge lot by my standards, but really don't want my tiny little jobs. They do them, but would really like to see me go elsewhere. I'm hopping to get some insight from those here as to which brands are better without getting into some kind of flame war. I have looked at Harbor freight, Northern, and the local Lowes, Home Depot etc. Problem is I really don't know what I'm looking at. I'm sure there is some type of discussion about this already, but after looking at four of the bazillion pages gave up on that.

 

[George2615]

Not sure what kind of welding you did in school 50 years ago but guess it was stick welding. No matter what type you did, probably the best source would be to check CL in your area. There's usually many cheap stick and mig welders for sale for under $200. I lucked out a few years ago and found an AC/DC welder with cables, ground clamp and stinger for $50 at a flea market. After a little cleaning and some paint it works perfectly. A quick check of CL in my area popped up about 50 welders. Lincoln, Miller, Sears Craftsman, Century, Solar, and Hobart to name a few. There are a few that will run on 110V but I prefer the 220V units.

 

[nickmags]

Yes, a very basic stick welding on an old Lincoln welder with a side of acetylene thrown in, lasted about a week, then class moved on. I thought about used, but again not sure what I need. The main reason I'm looking at 110V is I don't have a 220 circuit available in my shop/garage but do have a 20amp 110v. Plus my generator is only 30 amp 110V. Adding a dedicated 220v outlet in the garage is possible, but adds to start up cost, would not be easy. Also would not be able to put welder and generator in tractor bucket and go to the work.

Not sure what kind of welding you did in school 50 years ago but guess it was stick welding. No matter what type you did, probably the best source would be to check CL in your area. There's usually many cheap stick and mig welders for sale for under $200. I lucked out a few years ago and found an AC/DC welder with cables, ground clamp and stinger for $50 at a flea market. After a little cleaning and some paint it works perfectly. A quick check of CL in my area popped up about 50 welders. Lincoln, Miller, Sears Craftsman, Century, Solar, and Hobart to name a few. There are a few that will run on 110V but I prefer the 220V units.

 

[s219]

I have been really impressed with my 110V wire feed (mig), which I use exclusively with flux core wire. I only had experience with stick welding from 20+ years ago, and was making pro welds with the wire feed in no time.

There are some cheap models which are junky, but they may weld ok for all I know. I do think the quality of the components, especially the wire feed system, has got to matter. I ended up buying a new Hobart Handler 140 for about $450, as I just wasn't comfortable with some of the problems I read about on cheaper welders. The Hobart has been trouble free.

I wanted a 110v unit for portability and use on small generator, but so far mainly use it in my shop. At least for welding on 1/4" and thinner steel, it's got more than enough power/heat. I did a repair for a friend where I had to weld a small ear on a wood stove door part, and we were both impressed with the precision control the welder allowed (not something I could have done with stick).

 

[radioman]

either you go used with stick weld that needs 220 or go new and get something like hobart 130 handler that uses 110v but it wont be cheap. I have one and love it. i do understand it has limitations and i did take it past it limitations and so far it still holding but the welds is not pretty . i welded 1/4 steel with it but the 130 is not meant for that thick - but i did multiple passes and it works for me regardless of the welding gods would say here. they have hobart 140 that is rated for 1/4 inch thick steel and thats what most of us would have for projects and sometimes i wished i had 140 - but at the time it wasnt available when 130 first came out.

i do caution though - be sure whatever circuit you use for the 120 v welder -make sure nothing else uses it at the same time. i had a loose breaker and it arced and burned the bus in panel from welding and other stuff on same time. the wire size was 10/2 so there no question if it can handle the welding but the breaker couldnt. being a stupid newbie at the time i learned my lesson.

 

[newbury]

Do you have a list of what you need to weld?
Smart TBN'ers could advise you better if we knew what you were going to do.
A quick check on CL with search tempest showed several 120V welders within a 150 mile radius.

Bear in mind that newer inverter welders, like an Everlast 140ST although inexpensive may not work with your generator.

Have you checked around local high schools? In my area they occasionally auction off/sell used welders.

 

[Shield Arc]

If you are limited to 120-volt input power. I suggest you look into a self shielded flux core Mig welder. And run .030" Lincoln NR-211 wire. This will get you up to speed the fastest.
This weld was made with an Everlast PowerArc 140ST 120-volt Mig welder, and .030" NR-211.

 

[IslandTractor]

For about $150 you can get a very nice 80amp inverter stick machine from Harbor Freight. You won't be able to build bridges with it but it should be fine for learning and making repairs on metal up to 1/8" easily and 1/4" with proper technique. The other benefit of that simple welder is that it is the size and weight of a lunch box. 110v only.

 

[GLyford]

Look at the specs for the Powerarc 140ST here, and see if you think it will do what you want:

Stick Welders For Sale - Stick Welding Machines - SMAW Welding - Everlast

Then find the sticky in this forum for Everlast and contact the guys for a TBN discount.

 

[1stDeuce]

I have a Hobart 190 welder that's been good to me. I had a 175 before this one, and it was also good. Hobart = Miller. Can't go wrong. I think there is a smaller 110/220v welder. Use on 110 immediately, and for lighter stuff, but if you eventually want to add 220v, you can then weld heavier stuff, at least in the shop. Bit more investment up front, but less in the long run than buying a different welder...

I also have an Eastwood plasma cutter. It's 110/220, and works well off my 110 generator. (With air from the Jeep's OBA setup...) It's been good to me, and Eastwood offers a great warranty.
Looks like they have a 110v mig welder on sale right now for $260. Eastwood -MIG Welder | MIG Welders | MIG Welding Cart | MIG Welding Machine & Accessories I'd not be afraid to buy a welder from them. (Oooh, 10% more off if you sign up for emails, according to the ad that just popped up! That is a GREAT deal!!)

Flux core wire itself is a bit more expensive, but works outside, in some wind even. No messing with gas, learning not to stick the rod, etc... Just set the voltage and speed per the chart, and squeeze the trigger. You'll be making good welds in no time at all! If you eventually decide you want cleaner welds, most MIG welders can have a small gas bottle added. Then you use cheaper solid wire, but no welding if there's a breeze...

And I'll add that on a farm, you'll quickly find the need for a larger welder... 110v really won't like welding much thicker than 1/8", in my experience... Even my 220v welder starts getting "fussy" above 1/4", and I have to pre-heat, or do multiple passes, which is really just pre-heating... Perhaps a small 110v welder for portability, and keep an eye out for a 220v stick welder, like an old lincoln "tombstone". The stick welder takes some practice, but you can weld pretty thick metal with one... Good for implements and tractors that have seen a LOT of use, and break larger parts...

Good luck!!