3-Point Hitch Bent 2538 hitch arm

[Oldoak]

I thought about straightening it out and reinforcing it a little. I'll prob do that. However I have the local dealer getting me trade in and quote on a new 3550. The 2538 is good so far for most things, but a little light for some of what I'm clearing out. I'd hate to break something more expensive or bend the loader. I like that it's not too heavy for finish mowing on softer ground. I have some thinking to do...

Yep, when it comes to tractor sizing, there are always compromises to be made.

Also what CincyFlyer stated about 3-pt hitches is the first thing that came to my mind even though I think we all do more than our far share of pushing with various implements attached to them. I know I do more heavy pushing than I should with my back blade. Today's tractors are not over built like the tractors of yesteryear!

 

[raptor0690]

Ya I'm guilty of working them "hard" that's for sure, but that's exactly why I bought them! The older ones were built better, no doubt. I can honestly say I work my 2538 pretty hard ( prob harder than a lot of users) but not as hard as some older tractors I've had (at least so far). Never abuse it and always maintain it. I was surprised the hitch arm bent. I've pushed harder with older tractors many times without this issue. The hitch on the 3550 is still called a "category 1" hitch, but it has cat 1 & 2 hookups. However its definitely heavier duty. Still waiting to hear from the dealer on the 3550, the salesman is pretty good but slow and doesn't seem overly motivated. I like the dealership overall. But they don't seem like they are in a hurry to make another sale. If I was the salesman I would be writing my best deal as fast as possible while the customer is still mad at his old tractor for breaking down.

 

[Oldoak]

If I was the salesman I would be writing my best deal as fast as possible while the customer is still mad at his old tractor for breaking down.

Funny you should mention that.

Just about two weeks ago, I visited a couple of dealerships to order a new Kubota tractor. The one dealership I visited in the morning, the owner said he would have a quote for me later that day. Sure enough, mid afternoon, I received a call from him and said he just sent me an e-mail with his detailed quote. Which turned out was acceptable to me. I placed that order with him that same day and that tractor is now sitting as his dealership waiting for the FEL to arrive. (Timberline Lawn & RV)

Oh, the other dealership I had visited days before going to Timberline, I have yet to hear from them with a quote.

 

[Deere Dude]

A new tractor is so much better than a new arm.

Just in case you want to fix your arm, I bent one on my JD pushing with a dirt scoop. I straightened it out with a log splitter and worked quite well and was very acceptable;

Our old tractors didn't seem to bend arms as easy and I think being non 4WD may be a factor. That seems to be why we bend those easier today.

 

[raptor0690]

Ya I think the 4wd has a lot to do with it. For its size the 2538 is fairly heavy, and in 4 low, it simply won't stop digging and pushing. Got a call from the dealer. He really likes those 3550's his best deal is 36k, for PST, open station. I thought those were coming down to match the 2555 prices. I think I can do better somewhere else if i decide to change tractors.

 

[brenstar]

I had the same exact thing happen to my tractor which is a 2545. The arm bent up like a banana.

I used a torch and heated it up and beat on it until I had it flat again. It took a lot of heating and a lot of beating to get it straight, but you cannot tell now.

Definitely need to be careful with these lighter tractors when pushing with the box.

I was thinking about beefing up the arm when I had it off, but after looking at everything else under there, I decided to leave it. I would much rather bend that arm and have a 1 hour repair than break some of the cast parts that it is attached to.

 

[tbzep]

My 8N is beefed up with a 1/2" thick 2" wide piece of steel welded under the bottom to make an inverted "T". The balls and pins will fail long before those arms will get bent. I've twisted up a few fairly heavy solid stabilizer bars without damaging the lift arms at all. Without walking out and looking at my 3550, something like that might could be welded most of the length up to the extendable ball assembly, but the flimsy adjustable stabilizers are still going to be a weak point.