Bent lift arms on a Frontier 1072

[blueriver]

Check my post on another thread regarding the use of chains, it looks like there is no means of allowing movement at your top link attachment point.

The downside to reinforcing your braces is that force will then be transmitted to your tractor; may be a problem, maybe not, but one TBN member broke the 3PH attachment point on his tractor.

I find it is often better to avoid applied force than brace for it.

Like most things though, there often is no one way only to address something and only an opinion which may or may not be valid in this situation.

Chain instead of the toplink?

 

[Rockgod]

Chain instead of the toplink?

What about running the chains from the lift arm to the back of the hog. In other words, just remove the braces. Leave the top link attached to the lift arms.

 

[Bartcephus]

The lift arms on this howse shredder seem much sturdier

 

[greg_g]

Not really sure what I'm doing wrong.

Another case that could have been avoided with a floating toplink bracket (FTB). Either your model didn't come with one, or it got lost/thrown away over the years. When the top of the A-frame is permitted to float, there is never any pushing force on the lift straps. Or the A-frame itself for that matter. When set properly, a FTB compensates for all reasonable rise and fall of the tail wheel.

The operation of a FTB is simple. For transport of the mower, tighten the toplink to its shortest possible length. This gives your tractor the best lift angle to pick up and carry. Once you get to where you're going to mow, lengthen the toplink enough to move the FTB about 90 degrees. Set the mowing height with the lift arms, and mow away. When the nose of the tractor rises and falls, the pivoting FTB compensate - keeping the mower level (and the tail wheel on the ground).

//greg//

 

[RoyJackson]

Another case that could have been avoided with a floating toplink bracket (FTB). Either your model didn't come with one, or it got lost/thrown away over the years. When the top of the A-frame is permitted to float, there is never any pushing force on the lift straps. Or the A-frame itself for that matter. When set properly, a FTB compensates for all reasonable rise and fall of the tail wheel.

//greg//

Adding to Greg's post...
You could also consider using chains in place of those two straps running aft.
The Frontier (Woods) RFM I have use chains (rather then rigid straps). This allows the mower to pivot about the lower link pins.

I would not, under any circumstance, stiffen up those A frame members. TripleR wrote it best: "The downside to reinforcing your braces is that force will then be transmitted to your tractor; may be a problem, maybe not, but one TBN member broke the 3PH attachment point on his tractor.
"
If something has to give, those straps appear to be both the cheapest and easiest repair.

 

[TripleR]

Chain instead of the toplink?

What Rockgod said in post #12 and RoyJackson in #15.

 

[TripleR]

Another case that could have been avoided with a floating toplink bracket (FTB). Either your model didn't come with one, or it got lost/thrown away over the years. When the top of the A-frame is permitted to float, there is never any pushing force on the lift straps. Or the A-frame itself for that matter. When set properly, a FTB compensates for all reasonable rise and fall of the tail wheel.

The operation of a FTB is simple. For transport of the mower, tighten the toplink to its shortest possible length. This gives your tractor the best lift angle to pick up and carry. Once you get to where you're going to mow, lengthen the toplink enough to move the FTB about 90 degrees. Set the mowing height with the lift arms, and mow away. When the nose of the tractor rises and falls, the pivoting FTB compensate - keeping the mower level (and the tail wheel on the ground).

//greg//

I believe he indicated in post #9 that he had a FTB, it just didn't provide enough travel or that's how I read it. I couldn't see it either from the photo.

 

[grsthegreat]

Adding to Greg's post...
You could also consider using chains in place of those two straps running aft.
The Frontier (Woods) RFM I have use chains (rather then rigid straps). This allows the mower to pivot about the lower link pins.

I would not, under any circumstance, stiffen up those A frame members. TripleR wrote it best: "The downside to reinforcing your braces is that force will then be transmitted to your tractor; may be a problem, maybe not, but one TBN member broke the 3PH attachment point on his tractor.
"
If something has to give, those straps appear to be both the cheapest and easiest repair.

Actually i use my mower ... braced up ... for many years, and it didnt mess with my 3 point at all. I got the idea by looking at about 2-3 other brands of mowers at a horse progress days demo. They ALL had heavier, angle iron bracing. The John Deere was the only one with the flat bar stock.

The mower still rocks a bit left and right and jumps occasionally up or down an inch or two ast times, so its not like its fixed in space and tight.

 

[Rockgod]

I believe he indicated in post #9 that he had a FTB, it just didn't provide enough travel or that's how I read it. I couldn't see it either from the photo.

Yes sir,

 

[scrappy isb67]

Not really sure what I'm doing wrong. Seems like ever since I got the 4320 I'm beating this thing up. Bent the tail wheel about a week ago, now this!

the whole deck looks bent to me! the center where the gearbox mouts to looks like it is lower than the outer edges.

No, I sure couldn't see it, so it looks as though you either didn't have it set up right to allow full flexibility, exceeded the limits of flexibility or exceeded the design limits of the cutter.

Other than getting a heavier duty cutter or adding braces, chains may very well be your best option. I have never used them, but many knowledgeable operators do.

Another case that could have been avoided with a floating toplink bracket (FTB). Either your model didn't come with one, or it got lost/thrown away over the years. When the top of the A-frame is permitted to float, there is never any pushing force on the lift straps. Or the A-frame itself for that matter. When set properly, a FTB compensates for all reasonable rise and fall of the tail wheel.

The operation of a FTB is simple. For transport of the mower, tighten the toplink to its shortest possible length. This gives your tractor the best lift angle to pick up and carry. Once you get to where you're going to mow, lengthen the toplink enough to move the FTB about 90 degrees. Set the mowing height with the lift arms, and mow away. When the nose of the tractor rises and falls, the pivoting FTB compensate - keeping the mower level (and the tail wheel on the ground).

//greg//

Adding to Greg's post...
You could also consider using chains in place of those two straps running aft.
The Frontier (Woods) RFM I have use chains (rather then rigid straps). This allows the mower to pivot about the lower link pins.

I would not, under any circumstance, stiffen up those A frame members. TripleR wrote it best: "The downside to reinforcing your braces is that force will then be transmitted to your tractor; may be a problem, maybe not, but one TBN member broke the 3PH attachment point on his tractor.
"
If something has to give, those straps appear to be both the cheapest and easiest repair.

IMHO, chains would not have saved this one, the way you all are going the A-frame would be stretched "up" and the lower link pin would be bent farward. The 3 point links are further apart at the mower so down on the back of the mower will cause the pictured damage and up on the aft of the mower will do as I said above. To me this looks like the mower was hooked under something and the 3pt was lifted and compressed the A-frame and bent the lower link up.