Bent loader frame

   / Bent loader frame #11  
Yep. Worst case that might be required. I'd try loading the high end of the bucket first.

What you described is typical damage caused when one side unlatches.

I’ve bent my quick attach plate a couple of times and it’s easily fixed by lifting on the high side. A loader frame would be harder. I kinda doubt the hydraulic are strong enough after all that’s what it’s supposed to not do. I think you could straighten it by chaining to a stump and jacking up the low side. Worst case you’ll need to cut the toque tube and reweld it.
 
   / Bent loader frame #12  
Good to know this as mine is twisted also. Only about 3/4" but it still bugs the crap outa me when the one side of the bucket touches down before the other. I think I did it trying to dig a stump out
 
   / Bent loader frame #13  
Are you sure it's the loader frame that is twisted and it's not just the loader brackets attached to the tractor? Sometimes if the bolts get loose enough the bracket can slide just enough in the bolt holes to make it look tweaked. I would try setting the bucket down, loosening all of the frame bolts and see if that allow you to get the bucket to sit flat again.
 
   / Bent loader frame
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Are you sure it's the loader frame that is twisted and it's not just the loader brackets attached to the tractor? Sometimes if the bolts get loose enough the bracket can slide just enough in the bolt holes to make it look tweaked. I would try setting the bucket down, loosening all of the frame bolts and see if that allow you to get the bucket to sit flat again.

I'll have to try that when the shop gets completed, or take it somewhere with a level floor.
 
   / Bent loader frame #15  
Jarid, you're sounding pretty optimistic that ur new shop floor is level...... ;)
 
   / Bent loader frame #16  
I try and remember my Front End Loader is a LOADER not a DOZER.

But still I occasionally push it hard into things on purpose, like piles of gravel, dirt, weeds, and roots and am very concerned about bending my FEL.

Is the general feeling is that you are safe from bending the FEL as long as you are not spinning your wheels or suddenly hitting an object?
 
   / Bent loader frame #17  
It is probably the torque tube connecting the 2 loader arms in front of the grill. It has taken a slight twist.
 
   / Bent loader frame #18  
Every once in a wile I get my front end loader bent enough so that it isn't level any more. Mostly from digging dirt and using one side more aggressively than the other. It's quite simple to fix. I just dig more aggressively with the opposite side for a few loads. It doesn't take long and the loader is level again.

PS make sure the rear tire pressure is equal on both sides.
 
   / Bent loader frame #19  
If it's bad like mine was you can put a heavy steel pipe inside the cross tube extending out on the side that is high and while it is under something that you can't lift you can stress the frame in the opposite direction from what caused the tweak. I lifted the opposite rear wheel off the ground. I wouldn't bounce it and I did it a little at a time with regular checks to keep from over doing it. When I got it to within 1/2 to 3/4 inches of perfect I stopped and since then I have favored that side a bit for heavy lifting. It is pretty close to perfect now. I didn't damage anything else by doing this but I was not confident that it would work or not hurt something else. The plates that the loader frame mounts to are stout but the real concern is tweaking the machine. Your machine may not be able to be fixed without causing severe damage to your tractor but I was able to straighten out a 2"+ sag on one side by carefully applying opposite force.

Be careful and recognize that you are taking a serious risk. I believe that the risk you are taking is the same risk you took in using the machine in a way that tweaked your loader frame in the first place it that helps to put it into perspective.
 
   / Bent loader frame #20  
I've twisted my FEL a couple of times. What i have done is curl the bucket back until one of the cylinders is all the way back. Then measure how much the other cylinder needs to retract before being fully closed. I then place some of those things that go around a cylinder shaft to keep them from fully retracting on the cylinder that fully closes (I forget what they are called). Then fully retract the curl and keep messing with it until its level. It has worked both times.
 

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