Rear Blade bent scraper blade for snow removal

[94BULLITT]

It is a Woods RB72. Boy did it get mangled this year. I rigged up a snow pusher for the front end as I have spread out parking areas to plow out. The blade is for the 150' driveway part. Your HBL has good moldboard height. Where I used to have need for the rear blade for dirt work, I do not anymore so I didn't want to spend on a heavy duty unit. Unfortunately, it's these units that have the tallest blade height which is advantageous for snow work.

The Rhino 5006 has a 16"height, (which I think Dirt Dog makes for them) seems like a nice one but it too is over a grand after shipping.

The best "value" at $700 seems to be the EveryThing Attachments Deluxe blade however this is using a 2 bend blade rather than a rolled.

A Woods RB is not enough blade for your tractor which I guess you learned. The blades rated for 40hp are not that heavy duty. If I was buying a blade for your tractor I would get one rated for a tractor up to 75hp. You can probably get a 6' blade like a Tuffline GB4 for $1200 or 1300 and your tractor will not hurt it. You might get lucky and watch around and find a nice used heavy duty blade before next winter. I am not very happy with my Woods HBL84 it has a lot of slop in it.

 

[Xfaxman]

---- But my Mahindra 3016 with me driving it destroyed this current blade I have. Mounting bolt is broken. It even has puckers where the cutting edge bolts to. This is 1/4" thick metal with puckers. I don't know how that happened. ------------

The only way it could pucker the cutting edge mounting holes, is the force at the bottom of the cutting edge from hitting stuff while moving forward. The cutting edge would try to pivot, pulling on the mounting bolts, bending the metal in.

Did the bottom of the blade bend, where I added the arrow on the left of the drawing?

From: Pat's Power Eq.

 

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The only way it could pucker the cutting edge mounting holes, is the force at the bottom of the cutting edge from hitting stuff while moving forward. The cutting edge would try to pivot, pulling on the mounting bolts, bending the metal in.

Did the bottom of the blade bend, where I added the arrow on the left of the drawing?

View attachment 418371

From: Pat's Power Eq.

Thanx Fax for all of your help with this including my pm to know if a shop press would work on this. No, to answer your question about bottom impact. There is a slight kink at the "top" pf the blade where the no.1 is. I think i did that a long time ago when it caught behind a tree. The force necessary or the cutting edge to "pivot", I would first think the tractor would have been stopped cold. At any rate, it is what it is. This blade seems to be weak for the tractor but before sold it, I would want to completely recondition it and that includes getting rid of the bends and puckers.

 

[UTCenturion]

here is a video of my cheapo angle blade working in 2 inches of snow. It is a bent blade not a continuous curve. I did notice the angle was required to make it slide off. The more angle the less it covered the tire tracks. realistically for this maneuver probably should have gotten a 7' or 8' for the 6 foot wheel base because at an angle it is not nearly as wide. And the more angle it would probably slide off more effectively.

 

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here is a video of my cheapo angle blade working in 2 inches of snow. It is a bent blade not a continuous curve. I did notice the angle was required to make it slide off. The more angle the less it covered the tire tracks. realistically for this maneuver probably should have gotten a 7' or 8' for the 6 foot wheel base because at an angle it is not nearly as wide. And the more angle it would probably slide off more effectively.

Thanks for this UT. I notice you have some "rolling" going on. Although you're in Tennessee and odds are lower, have you gotten any dry, fluffy stuff?

 

[Xfaxman]

Thanx Fax for all of your help with this including my pm to know if a shop press would work on this. No, to answer your question about bottom impact. There is a slight kink at the "top" pf the blade where the no.1 is. I think i did that a long time ago when it caught behind a tree. The force necessary or the cutting edge to "pivot", I would first think the tractor would have been stopped cold. At any rate, it is what it is. This blade seems to be weak for the tractor but before sold it, I would want to completely recondition it and that includes getting rid of the bends and puckers.

You are welcome, It would take a large press frame, twice as wide as the blade is high, to remove the puckers.

I would remove the cutting edge and try using a grade 8 fine thread bolt with a washer on each side and an impact wrench to flatten each hole.

Please post some pictures of it.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Strange. I've used the back blade a couple of snow seasons and the only problem I had was hooking a boulder, coming to an abrupt stop, and bending mount where the blade connects to the 3pt mount.

 

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You are welcome, It would take a large press frame, twice as wide as the blade is high, to remove the puckers.

I would remove the cutting edge and try using a grade 8 fine thread bolt with a washer on each side and an impact wrench to flatten each hole.

Please post some pictures of it.

I shall and it IS rather strange.