Bent Top Cylinder Rod

turboviking · Oct 20, 2011

Hello all. I have a JD 4610 with the optional top and tilt hydraulics. They, by the way, are priceless.

I recently bought a Frontier 1276 disc harrow. The harrow came with zero useful instructions. I just attached it and tried to do some work. Shortly the top cylinder started making noise. I took it off to the shop and the shaft was bent. There are three holes in the frame to mount it. It is in the bottom.

What did I do wrong? Is there anyone with great info on using a disc harrow? I am clueless and now poorer.

Any help is - as always - very much appreciated. Thank you in advance. Troy

greg_g · Oct 20, 2011

Unfortunately the sequence is wrong here, because my advice has already been demonstrated by your misfortune. I take my HTL off the tractor(s) for certain 3 point implements, and use a rigid toplink instead. The three point disc harrow is one of them.

//greg//

turboviking · Oct 20, 2011

That should be the answer. But I don't have the top link anymore. I guess I could invest in one. Is there a setting for draft that is prefered when using the disc?

Thanks Greg - Troy

deere36 · Oct 20, 2011

I bought a top cylinder for my 4720 and it worked fine until I used it on my 8 foot Bushhog disc and the cylinder started to leak excessively. I returned it to the dealer because it was only two months old and he said they would replace it but if I continued to use it on heavy implements like the large disc they could not guarantee it.

Larry

beenthere · Oct 20, 2011

Fill us in on why the hyd. top link should not be used for the disc harrow?

Likely it can only bend if in an extended position, which then cannot take the compressive forces delivered by a ground engaging attachment such as the disc harrow or something like a moldboard plow.

However, having the top link in the lower of three holes may also require it to be extended further out, and more vulnerable to bending from compression.

turboviking
I'd be interested in how far out you needed to extend the HTL to get the disc harrow to function while engaged. Sorry to hear of the expensive lesson.
This could extend to possibly cover using a box blade or a dirt blade?

MtnViewRanch · Oct 20, 2011

Just another reason to have your 3pt hydraulic links with bigger dia rods.

Gator6x4 · Oct 20, 2011

It sounds like you drove into a ditch or gully with the disk down and upon entry or exit the rear of the disk was forced upward applying considerable force on the top link. The top link bent. I have seen the rear of the tractor break. A very expensive repair. Top link rod replacement is cheaper than replacing the rear housing. I would not use again I actually decided what caused the rod to bend. As previouslly stated housings are expensive.

turboviking · Oct 20, 2011

Hello, Turboviking here. I don't recall the depth or the disc harrow, or the amout of extension of the rod. I was using the unit on uneven earth. Also I have an MX6 rotary cutter which is very heavy.

I suggest that Gator 6x4 is onto something. And he has a nice gator.

I have the 6x4 as well. I m

ight want to look someday at something with a full hydro and true four wheel drive when I hit the lottery, but that gator is one useful horse manure hauler! Thanks, When I get the plow back on I will report back on this thread. Need a rain first, dirt quite hard now.

HUGS

beenthere · Oct 20, 2011

So the last two posts by Gator and turbo are suggesting that even the fixed top link would have broken something?

I don't think so.
But that is where draft control will sense that compression of the TL and raise the 3 ph accordingly.

On my rotary cutter, I have chain to keep from compressing anything when the rear of the RC raises.