Bent Top Cylinder Rod

AKfish · Apr 12, 2012

greg_g said:
Well, at least none of the described issues are the fault of the cylinders. All I read is a series of correctable geometry and procedural anomalies. But to be fair, I don't have a side link on mine.

That said - once the HTL was installed - I immediately removed the OE toplink hook. It was of insufficient size to grab onto the toplink, so I saw no use for it at all. Instead, I use one of those heavy duty black rubber tarp straps like OTR truckers use.

Next, I always make sure that I never raise the lift arms with the HTL extended. Step 1, retract cylinder. Step 2, raise lift arms.

I also faithfully adjust the horizontal side stabilizers for each and every implement I mount on the three point hitch. I never permit more than 2" total side to side movement; 1" in either direction.

And among my various TPH implements, there are a few that - by design - exert higher stress on the toplink. Fortunately, these few are for jobs where adjusting toplink length on the fly are not necessary. For those, I leave a conventional toplink pinned to them permanently. When I need to use those particular implements, I drop the HTL before attaching. Sounds like your disc mower may fall into that category.

//greg//

To be realistic... the configuration of both the hitches on the rake (overall tongue length) and the mower (extreme right side adjustment) are not conducive to use with the hydraulic cylinders.

And, the amount of sway that I typically allow with the mower is on the order of 1/2" - either way. Of course, the cylinder does "drift" and must be continously readjusted as well. But, with nearly 1,000lbs extending 6 feet beyond the outside edge of the rear tire with the cutter bar that's dragging on the ground through green hay.. well, any change in the position of either of the cylinders is not a favorable circumstance!

Point being... there are a number of 3pt implements that are not readily compatible with a TnT hydraulic setup. It is generally easier to manage and operate those implements with the manually adjustable 3pt links.

Yes, my disc mower and rotary rake would fall into that category. As would a moldboard plow, disc harrow, sickle mower, row-crop cultivator - IMO.

AKfish

MtnViewRanch · Apr 12, 2012

I typically tell people that when it comes to farming, that they are best off using the OEM manually adjusted links. IMO, the whole Top and Tilt system is aimed at the grading process where adjustments need to be made on a continual basis to get the best possible job done in the shortest amount of time with the least amount of effort.

Just my :2cents:

AKfish · Apr 12, 2012

MtnViewRanch said:
I typically tell people that when it comes to farming, that they are best off using the OEM manually adjusted links. IMO, the whole Top and Tilt system is aimed at the grading process where adjustments need to be made on a continual basis to get the best possible job done in the shortest amount of time with the least amount of effort.

Just my :2cents:

x2 here.. could not agree more! :thumbsup: That's at least - 4cents.

AKfish