yes maintenance. Va Mtns incline.2/3 is relatively" flat " ( this word is not used in this area much) I have been maintaining it for the last few years with my Dodge 2500 diesel and a 16' flat bed with 2' side walls trailer. I go to the quarry 2 3 times a year get 4 to 5 tons of crusher run and then hand unload with a shovel.Last year I ordered a load 15 to 17 ton and had it track spread. The quarry has a device they use so when the driver unloads it puts the crusher run in the two tracks not in the middle, I do the same with a shovel,as you can imagine one has to man up for this task.Anyway the snow this year convinced my wife that a tractor would be a good investment.I posted in the attachment section last night a conversation with a Kubota engineer yesterday specific to a rear blade on a Kubota B7800.Their recommendation is a 5' standard duty back blade anything other than this rec can result in damage to the 3 pt hitch and components.I would still like to get a 6' blade to help with ditch maintenance.The 5' has an off set maybe the best choice ?
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yes maintenance. Va Mtns incline.2/3 is relatively" flat " ( this word is not used in this area much) I have been maintaining it for the last few years with my Dodge 2500 diesel and a 16' flat bed with 2' side walls trailer. I go to the quarry 2 3 times a year get 4 to 5 tons of crusher run and then hand unload with a shovel.Last year I ordered a load 15 to 17 ton and had it track spread. The quarry has a device they use so when the driver unloads it puts the crusher run in the two tracks not in the middle, I do the same with a shovel,as you can imagine one has to man up for this task.Anyway the snow this year convinced my wife that a tractor would be a good investment.I posted in the attachment section last night a conversation with a Kubota engineer yesterday specific to a rear blade on a Kubota B7800.Their recommendation is a 5' standard duty back blade anything other than this rec can result in damage to the 3 pt hitch and components.I would still like to get a 6' blade to help with ditch maintenance.The 5' has an off set maybe the best choice ?
MtnViewRanch
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logan97, sent you a PM
How do you like your rollover box blade? I've never seen one of those before. It kind of looks like a cross between a box blade and a rear blade.
One of those might come in handy for my needs.
Ronnie
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Ronnie, it is a great implement. They were first made this way before anybody had any rear hydraulics to get the rippers down, and yes it sort of does work like a rear blade. I prefer these to a std box blade and might even have an edge on a good heavy duty box blade with hydraulic activated rippers. But then that probably is just me. Here are a few more pics.
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Logan,
I have a B7800 and use a LandPride 72" Tilt and angle rear 3pt Blade to maintain a 1/2-3/4 mile road (STEEP hill and flats) including my driveway (all gravel 3/4minus crush)
The blade works fine for crowning, grading, back blading, removing bumps/ruts/potholes. However it's been a learning curve the last 3 years with the tractor/rear blade. Before that I used a landscape rake.... not much good to fix any of the above.
One thing of note as you have Macadamized road bed (multi layer, biggest on bottom then smaller all the way to the top) It is important not to disturb the large rocks under your road. It is equaly inportant to pack after your grading process to compress the material into a hard surface so that it will last longer.
The key to this maint, is moisture content and conditions after your grading and packing activity. I find that a Moist bed is best to work over and fix the road surface, then imediately pack. Hopefully following days will dry out the road bed and it should firm up almost like concrete. If it rains... well it's just not going to last long.
I have looked at the graders on the first post, checked them out at my local retailer... I can't justify the expense when my blade does an excelent job... now that I have learned how to best use it.
If you however don't have a blade already and would only use it for grading, you might take the plunge at the customized graders as they would do the work far faster with less "Learning curve".
Cheers and have fun on your B7800!
I have a B7800 and use a LandPride 72" Tilt and angle rear 3pt Blade to maintain a 1/2-3/4 mile road (STEEP hill and flats) including my driveway (all gravel 3/4minus crush)
The blade works fine for crowning, grading, back blading, removing bumps/ruts/potholes. However it's been a learning curve the last 3 years with the tractor/rear blade. Before that I used a landscape rake.... not much good to fix any of the above.
One thing of note as you have Macadamized road bed (multi layer, biggest on bottom then smaller all the way to the top) It is important not to disturb the large rocks under your road. It is equaly inportant to pack after your grading process to compress the material into a hard surface so that it will last longer.
The key to this maint, is moisture content and conditions after your grading and packing activity. I find that a Moist bed is best to work over and fix the road surface, then imediately pack. Hopefully following days will dry out the road bed and it should firm up almost like concrete. If it rains... well it's just not going to last long.
I have looked at the graders on the first post, checked them out at my local retailer... I can't justify the expense when my blade does an excelent job... now that I have learned how to best use it.
If you however don't have a blade already and would only use it for grading, you might take the plunge at the customized graders as they would do the work far faster with less "Learning curve".
Cheers and have fun on your B7800!