Oil & Fuel Best Break In for Diesel

SCDolphin · Mar 22, 2007

Is there any advice on breaking in a new tractor engine??

DaryleD · Mar 22, 2007

It is basically the same as a gas motor. Don't run it wide open, vary the motors rpm's, don't work it under load too hard, change oil after getting a few hours on it, If you've bought a new tractor or piece of equipment, than the owners manual will usually tell you what you need to know . I change the oil on any new motor about twice as much as the recomendation suggests, even for break in, until I think it is ok. I'm probably too **** about a new piece of equipment for a while. After I feel comfortable, I try to just go by the manuals' recomendations for service.
Daryle.

Farmwithjunk · Mar 22, 2007

SCDolphin said:
Is there any advice on breaking in a new tractor engine??

Diesels like to be broke in under a load. "free revving" (running up the rpm's with no load) is a terrible way to season a new diesel. I haven't read any manuals on newer tractors, but once upon a time John Deere. Ford, Massey Ferguson and IH recommended dealers break in new motors with an hour under load on a dynomometer. It is suggested that rpms vary slightly during initial run-up. (first hour)

I have a couple tractors still that I bought new. One in 1971 and another in 1979. Both were initiated with a plow. Both of them run like new, burn ZERO oil, pump up to original compression, and show no signs of fatigue.

AndyMA · Mar 22, 2007

I've always been told by my dealer to break them in like you're going to use them and thqat's what I've done.

Andy

Deadman · Mar 22, 2007

Dealer told me not to change the oil till I get some serious PTO working on the tractor, just to make it labor. He claimed it'd burn oil otherwise!

RoyJackson · Mar 22, 2007

Leave the original oil in for 50 or more hours...definitely don't use an ultra-slippery oil (synthetic) until after break-in. This is to ensure the rings seat properly.
Vary the RPM's (what I did when mowing (constant RPM) was to put the tractor in neutral every 20 minutes or so and use the foot throttle to vary the RPM for a minute or two) for the break-in period.
Otherwise, I ran it like I intended to use it the rest of it's servicable life (which will probably be longer then my servicable life).

Farmwithjunk · Mar 22, 2007

RoyJackson said:
Otherwise, I ran it like I intended to use it the rest of it's servicable life (which will probably be longer then my servicable life).

Now there would be a warranty feature that just might make me want a NEW tractor.... A guarantee that I'd last as long as the tractor.....OR.... I'd last as long as the payment book

RoyJackson · Mar 22, 2007

Farmwithjunk said:
Now there would be a warranty feature that just might make me want a NEW tractor.... A guarantee that I'd last as long as the tractor.....OR.... I'd last as long as the payment book

Well, my warranty ran out many years ago...

Redbug · Mar 22, 2007

I am still breaking in my diesel and have not reached to 50 hour mark, yet. Like Daryl said the instruction manual spells out the instructions in the 50 hour break in. Don't over rev it, vary the speeds, keep the heat down, etc. I would suggest NOT to change the oil earlier than 50 hours, earlier is not better! The manufacturers put in the "break in oil", to help the rings seat, and parts to wear in. And like what Roy said....and the reason is...break in oil does not have all the anti-wear additives and detergents like normal oil. That is to allow the rings/cylinder walls, engine parts to wear more and mate with their respective parts. After everything wears and mates, (after 50 hours or so), then you want to protect the engine parts with "real" oil that has the proper protective additive packages.

DieselPower · Mar 22, 2007

Redbug said:
I am still breaking in my diesel and have not reached to 50 hour mark, yet. Like Daryl said the instruction manual spells out the instructions in the 50 hour break in. Don't over rev it, vary the speeds, keep the heat down, etc. I would suggest NOT to change the oil earlier than 50 hours, earlier is not better! The manufacturers put in the "break in oil", to help the rings seat, and parts to wear in. And like what Roy said....and the reason is...break in oil does not have all the anti-wear additives and detergents like normal oil. That is to allow the rings/cylinder walls, engine parts to wear more and mate with their respective parts. After everything wears and mates, (after 50 hours or so), then you want to protect the engine parts with "real" oil that has the proper protective additive packages.

Actually it has a massive amount of ZDDP (zinc) in it. During break in there is even more need for EP anti-wear additives. Break in oils usually have anywhere from 2 to 5+ times the additive package compared to regular oil.

My procedure is to do the first change at 5 hours. This is when the majority of the initial break in occurs and changing it removes all the metal contamination. I then change the oil and refill with a regular dino oil and add 2 bottles of EOS. EOS can be purchased at any local GM/Chevrolet dealership and is a engine assembly oil that is mainly just a base oil carrier with a very large ZDDP additive package, basically I am making my own break in oil. I then run this oil change to the 50 hour mark and from then on go with my regular extended drain intervals with UOA's.